LRzed

interesting how everyone wants "at or above shoulder" when child seats read " at or below"

I did mine up with some "roadster" style seatbelts. Shored up the top with a couple feet of 1"x1/8" steel. http://www.landroversonly.com/gallery/file.php?n=491&w=o

this may have been said.. But... back when I was toyotaing.. And its been a while The idea was.. and it was hotly argued, that it would give you better stability under braking and rough roads. being as your springs were now less inclined to be pushed back on hard impacts. I never did it. But I remember threads and garage discussions about it with everyone claiming the other was missing something.

AS no one else has answered.. I'm not familiar with the 2A ambulance (series 3 88 owner) but I've disassembled mine down to the frame rails.. and though I've a different solenoid for my key switched starter.. I've found that ALMOST (clip nuts aside) everything can be accessed from "the other side" Most of the time its not even hard to get. If I can't get something apart easily, i've found its because I'm going at it wrong. ONLY thing I've found to be a problem was a seized door hinge nut. It was a clip nut and I managed to twist off the clip. So I had to drill it. Find the revrse side and get it out. It's doable. .. maybe this is the one thing that's a bitch on the IIA.. but I doubt it.

I can hear the tappets with my yard stick against the rocker. No noise from the bottom or sides of the engine. It was not as loud prior to the valve adjustment. I did just put on an exhaust manifold and all that that entails. BUT.. it doesn't seem to be leaking

I am using .010 and .012 inches. rather than .025 and .030 mm as per the manual. Regardless.. all feeler gauges are marked in sae and mm. I didn't check if the mm=the inches. Do you use different inches in cars than in america? I'll check my measurements again today. also do my best to check the condition of the rockers. I am not talking about sitting in the drivers seat with the hood closed noise. I would imagine that with the hood closed it would be the car equivalent of silent. I've heard as many engines as I can find on Youtube and the like. None of them ticked over silently. But the sound was so horrible.. Couldn't tell what they sounded like.. they were just very loud.

Yea.. sorry its the 2.25 petrol series III.. not very common to find anything else out here.. I found some posts elsewhere that said "if it doesn't make noise, the tappets are too close" It does have "solid" non hydraulic lifters.. roller or not, there's a tenth of an inch at the top.. I guess that'll clatter. Seems to be what some others say. I hope mine weren't too tight for too long. I normally drive newer cars of course. Its been a while since I've had anything old that wasn't a mercedes or something relatively refined. On that note, I will double check my clearances though. Maybe put my borescope in a cylinder to see if I can see a valve. Like I said though.. its running smooth now.

I've had a misfire ever since purchasing my land rover. As I heard no suspicious valve noise I thought it was some sort of carburetion or ignition problem. Well, I've sorted those things out, and it wasnt. So i adjusted my valves. They were adjusted very close. Like perhaps the PO adjusted it cold or using the wrong specifications. I adjusted them to spec and now the engine is rather "valvey" Clatters away like a sewing machine. The miss at idle and at speed is gone completely .. smooth as glass, but a bit noisy-Clakety clackety clackety. My new cars clatter not. I am running 20w-50. I'm not in the UK or australia so Land rovers aren't everywhere. I have no idea if they're supposed to be as clattery as an old toyota or new GM LS2 engine. Did I adjust too loose? I think its right on, but I may need to give it another go. Are they relatively loud idling engines? It looks like solid lifters in there.. I don't think i've ever owned a car with solid lifters.. maybe thats it? Thanks for any input to put me at ease or help me diagnose..

Windows are for people who are too cheap for coats and goggles. I may not have it rough now.. but I did live on the canadian border with a jeep wrangler and an fj-40.. I don't think the UK's balmy winters can compare. Nor the drizzle with living in a rain forest climate as I do now.. Sans windows. That being said.. i was being sarcastic.. to an extent. Its hardly a reasonable vehicle.. don't drive it reasonably. And .. that being said.. I am in the market for a hard top. But more from a locking and resale point of view. British steel.. well european steel.. asian steel. Just not as sturdy as american steel. Its softer and certainly in my anecdotal experience rusts away quite quickly. Definitely has the reputation anyway. On topic.. again.. One can get some Por-15 in there.. can potentially clog things. But definitely wont rust. Not a fan of that messy waxoyl nonsense. however inside doors would be the best place for it.

trying to come up with any kind of why. Putting that much engine in something so unsuited for it... I guess its one man's dream.

Its your land rover trying to tell you that door tops are for sissies. They do rot out horribly. snapped a bolt on one of mine. Badly damaged the other trying to get them off.. ironically, for repair. Drilled and hammered.. hammered and drilled.. finally got it out. but man.. what a horrible design. British steel at its finest. As for replacements. If you're in the UK.. I believe they sell them at the corner market. In the US they are even easy to come by at any LR parts dealer.

I know i've said it before. But.. I would get my spring shackles in front of the "from". People love to type extraneous words the end of their sentences at. That being said. they're an easy fab for any metal shop. get exactly what you need. I've used flat stock in the past. I have not checked out the LR shackles.. might not be the thing for them. But still Take yours to a machine shop or welder.. you can get what you need.

Well its the top on the shoulder belts that is the problem. Mine are attached to the hood poles. Which I believe to be made of galvanized butter.

I get my wheels in front of the preposition.

my shocks are useless.. the 500 leaf mega rated stock springs don't flex enough to bother having shocks. Maybe the leaves are stuck together.

I'd put money on ol' sparky.. the switch. I've had them get all scrambled inside to cause similar problems on other vehicles.

definitely not good. I had a coilover system that did that... ruined it. I never understood the check straps. don't ALL vehicles rear suspension hang from the shocks at times? Granted a couple other vehicles have check straps... is there something special about the rover? he said having had brand new straps installed by PO.

How does a fuel gauge keep you from calculating mileage. You can't trust a fuel gage. Its miles to amount used to fill up. if you top off.. take the amount you topped off with and divide into miles. Top off every time and its very close to the same amount of fuel each time. With a broken gauge, i'm sure you're topping off. 100 miles since last fill... 10 litres to top off.. 10 mi per litre. The fuel gauge doesn't tell you how many litres you have. As long as your ODO works and the fueling station has a working pump gauge. You can deduct mileage.

I'm not currently in the UK. I picked up a gearbox from a IIA that has III internals. I haven't exchanged them yet. But my plan is to rebuild the III while using the IIA. A transmission here will cost an easy £1000 plus freight for another 250. I'm currently mid pacific. Big parts don't come easy out here. Small parts aren't that much more expensive than in UK but the heavy and the rare (which a lot of it is rare outside UK and AUS) end up being expensive. I am currently using a california based company. But am thinking about trying to get some of the UK suppliers to ship here. But shipping can take 60 days or more, or cost hundreds to speed up.

By the way. Got it all slapped back together. Clutch was misassembled by the po. The plastic staple wasnt used. The fork was stuck behind the release bearing pushing on the pressure plate. That and the rust caused horrible slipping. It worked great... allowing me to use the brakes more aggressively, causing the failure of the booster servo. "HISSSSSSSS" actually I think it was not working, I had assumed it was not power assisted.. never thought about the fact that it had the servo on there. It worked for about 2 stops then started hissing loudly. it also let me on to the transmission popping out of gear on deceleration. Looks like I have to take care of that. I've been advised that driving it on a worn transmission will destroy it beyond repair. Not sure if this is true. I've never bothered repairing something like that.. but in hawaii the rover is rare enough (possibly unique) to where a replacement gearbox is not locally an option. I don't know If I can fix it. But It looks like I have to try or spend quite a bit.

Just the big green book manual? or a special gearbox manual? Other than the forums, there's no one around to "talk me through it" Judging by the bits around your shop.. you seem a bit more experienced than I. THanks..

My gearbox is popping out of 2nd and 3rd gear on deceleration.. 4th gear makes a clackety noise at light acceleration or coasting. I've been advised that the transmission probably needs a couple of things, such as syncros or bearings. I've checked the nut on the rear of the main shaft already. It was loose but not backed out. What I was really wondering is. Is this the type of project that someone with moderate experience in automotive tinkering and nil experience in transmissions can take on? I've successfully replaced oil seals and clutches, that's about the extent of it with gearbox work I'm an office worker, not a mechanic. But I do all of my own work thus far. What do you think.. in over my head? Also, a second opinion would be nice. There is a slight amount of play.. a few mm when I push the shift lever into first or third. When I push forward on the shift lever it pushes the main shaft back a couple mm. That and the popping out of gear and noise. It doesn't grind or anything. Shifts smoothly. Just likes to pop out of gear.

I have somehow managed to disable my flashers. My hazard lights and turn indicators now do not flash. I removed some wires that I thought were from an old radio and auxiliary lighting circuits.. I may have cut one too many. What should I look for in the circuit? Any advise?

73 SIII LHD

HA HA HA.. I Had a speedo cable go on me due to a slight crack in the outer casing letting in water... froze the cable in the winter and twisted it right off. Another due to rust and a sharp bend. Just bound for a few turns and snapped..