LandyManLuke

Hi Rog, Those ones?

The 'modifications' mentioned are a HD front bumper, and underbody protection. They're not (traditional) difflocks, watch the tyres, you can see the ETC working. Bet it wouldn't out run a tank with JC at the helm though.

Just like a D3 or RRS, they do the same thing in those situations. and that is a standard Toureg, just with underbody protection. Obviously isn't ever going to be a D3 or RRS, but out of the bunch mentioned, i think the Toureg deserves a bit more credit. I do agree though that the first few minutes of the video are a bit lame.

The toureg isn't that bad, certainly not by the looks of this video, i reckon a standard 90 with open diffs would struggle in those situations. (right at the end of the video)

Also believe, that in it's simplest terms, an A frame used to tow a car is illegal. They're allowed to be used in an emergency without any modifications to the car. To be used on a car, it must become a trailer, which means having lights wired correctly, and in the case of a landrover, the correct brake systems for a trailer of that weight. Luke

taking the intercooler pipes out gives you plenty of access, and only takes 5 minutes. having no fan cowl helps too

'73 Westerly Pentland Found the jetski pictures Luke

sedate sailing, without so much expense, the series 3 of sailing i suppose although this is fun too got some pictures of jetskiing somewher too

tres posh!

have you got a multimeter that will measure >10A? wish i had. nothing wrong with switching the negative side. I am, but the positive side is fused.

when i fitted mine, i found that it needed a 40A fuse to start, but would actually run on a 20A fuse. Luke

the 'wheel off and tap round the drum' technique worked for me on my old car, took some quite enthusiastic 'tapping' though.

number 1 is Dan at Kirton, can't remember when tho. that's the only one i could get who and where, let alone when.

I'd say the worst has to be the Scotch-block, horrible things!!!

i've got an ITX PC in my 90, cost a lot less than the marine units, which i see at the boat shows and are rediculously priced. Mine's got DVD/CDRW and 20gb laptop hd in the case, i use it for MP3s and its interfaced with my etrex for memory map. I've got a new 8" linITX touchscreen to go in to upgrade my old 7" one which was nicked. more info here

It's got to be the inclined plane, it was lifting blocks for the pyramids, holding wheels on when they arrived (as MOG said), and is still alive and well today in the form of every bolt and screw on the planet. it's versatile, cheap and dependable. Must be the first mechanical invention, if not the best. that, or the lever.

didn't fit two though, grr double post.

i fitted a brand new rad from mm4x4 , £100 there abouts, good service too

Gee thanks so do you!

humour me and try starting it with the door open but the pin switch pushed in, see if it'll start then.

if there really is a link, it must be down to a bad earth behind the dash somewhere, bit bizarre though!

agreed, something like an epicyclic on the end of the drive shaft would be good for both lowering speed and hiding the outboard's driveline from high torque, it'd require some hefty fabbing to mount the whole lot, i'm not sure that the outboard leg would take that, or the abuse of actually driving over anything. the Yamaha quoted above has a gear ratio of 13:30, so it'd have to be quite a big epicyclic! I'd reckon the radiator would have to be huge, outboards have the luxury of billions of gazillions of water at low temperature ( pretty much always lower than ambient) and they need it, due to running in an insulated box. Ho hum, sounds like fun

i would have though this would have been the technology to play with four wheel steer, spool valve control. nice.

I'm reckoning Outboard gearbox/output bearings are all about thrust, they take no load across them, unless you've got a buggered prop, the vibration from one of them shags pretty much everything. the output shaft is pretty thin, certainly less than a stub axle, it's also not very long, as well as being pretty much under the engine. Cooling would be a complete re-plumb, as the engine sucks water from the bottom of the leg, circulates it round the engine and spits it out through the middle of the prop. how nicely you could convert it to normal pipes i don't know. most modern outboards are 4stroke EFI, so with some sort of closed loop control speed control should be do-able. I've looked and an 80HP (Yamaha) outboard weighs 170 Kg, 680Kg for four corners. the leg probably isn't designed for any sort of force apart from it's traditional push, neither is the mounting bracket. putting the engine on a new drop shaft and gearbox might work, but that must be mucho $$$$. I'm guessing this is purely as a rock crawler type thing? the speed variation with one gear is going to be pretty low. you don't get a clutch either. Luke

Having driven quite a few RIBs, i'm guessing you'll have fun with gearbox ratios, props spin a lot faster than tyres. four gear levers? that'll be fun! i suppose bowden cables will get them all in the right place. balancing throttles could be interesting. looked at full hydro drive? Hope you're not on a windup Luke Edit: the more i sit here thinking about this, the more i think Andy's having a laugh, or needs to sit down and have a nice warm mug of cocoa and get some sleep.