errol209

a) probably, yes b) a photo or two would clinch it

The 200TDi senders are 5/8 UNF thread, and I'd say that 87 degrees is about right for the "top end of normal"!

Too many choices: have a look at page 19 of this pdf (page number 16 at the bottom) it has all the alternatives (I don't know some of the information, but you will!).

If I understand the question correctly, the pin is RRC6681 and the spring clip that retains it is RRC6682.

Your motor is set up for LHD. There is a little plastic thing to move, the following link says it all: Document linky Referenced from this thread: Thread Linky

Wide, I'd guess.

Page 995 onwards in the parts book - I think you mean the one on page 1004?

MUC8754

Assuming you mean 90/110/Defender deluxe seats: RTC3107 (RH) (now MWC7636) and RTC3108 (LH) (now MWC7635) EDIT: (URLs for the pictures only - I'd shop around as the prices seem to vary from £4 to £30 each, or go to an autojumble)

Page 85 of the pdf.I know it says 300TDI but a 200TDI one looks the same - four flat bits that bolt together. Disco ones are taller than Defender, but th mounts at the bottom can be trimmed to compensate.

Link to 2009 Microcat ?

I don't know, though he did mention "being out". As stand-in assistant acolyte locum under those circumstances, can I help?

It's easiest if you push on the wire at the same time as jiggling ... four arms!

Left hand side (passenger in UK)

Answers: how do you wind up a turbo and injector pump on a j19 engine? - fit a 200Tdi and tweak that instead. is it worth it? - Fitting a 200Tdi is a great improvement, yes. and how long does it last??? - Depends how many miles your 200Tdi has done already. Seriously, I wouldn't bother. Land Rover re-engineered the whole thing (pretty much) rather then try and get even more out out of what is essentially an over-worked and worked-over 2.25 diesel. Be happy with it (they aren't that bad if you're nice to them with oil changes etc.) or get a better engine.

I would suggest that the leading (chassis) end bushes were assembled incorrectly in some way.

The other end of the light green/red surfaces behind the dashboard at a four way (white, brown, light green/red, blue/white) connector, which would imply a seperate switch / relay set up to only wash with the main beam on. The dashboard plug is called "Power Wash and Norway connector". The wiring size is just pure LR!

I think he's confusing it with "200Tdi" there. Still, the current £1120 isn't a bad number. I'd wonder about the state of the roof, the bulkhead rot looks fixable.

I was serious about superglue. None of Wurth "Thread Lock", Loctite 270 or Loctite 243 appears to be a cyanoacrylate, they're Dimethacrylate ester based. Superglue is good to 150 degrees C, and Loctite 270 to 125 degrees C. Araldite softens above 65 degrees C.

MWC2120 and MWC2121 up to VIN MA or MXC5973 and MXC5974 1995 onwards. Different numbers for even newer vehicles. There was a thread on this a while ago too: can't locate it quickly though.

These fit on the inside of the tub (these ones are now sold, picture for illustration).

I've just checked out my first hunch, and given the relatively low exposure to nail varnish remover and lowish mechanical forces, give the joint a very very good clean with degreasers and apply a little ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate (alias superglue). Perfect for this kind of joint.

ETC4761? ETC4761P is non-genuine and 1/3 the price.

I'll do my bestest ...

You have to be quick to beat Western to the draw! (That was an easy one ...)