errol209

These new fangled "improvements" thanks Andrew, you learn something now and again on here!

Yep, same here. Very very very gently and very slightly bend the open edge inwards using your most delicate pliers before trying to fit them, then go round with a blunt drift and a No.1 tool and set the things back once fitted. The design is an ar*e, you are not alone. Alledgedly there is a "special tool" available, but its probably his day off ...

There is supposed to be a membrane sealed accross the big hole (you can see the glue residue in the picture) but no-one ever puts them back. The water in the door bottom is supposed to drain into the bottom horizontal bit via some biggesh holes, and the out of the bottom of that via some slots left in the bottom edge (three, I think) where the door skin is notched to allow this. Trouble is, the little slots bung up, so the door then drains by overflowing (like yours). The seal on the door bottom doesn't look original though (mine doesn't have any, but its a bit older) However, I agree with Orange - othrewise looks normal to me too!

HTH and glad you're both sorted. Mine had turned into copper rust for about the last two feet, it just fell apart when I pulled. The reverse light wiring goes this way too eventually, but takes longer.

Can't see them, and anyway, are you allowed to say that on this forum? I thought the war-crimes police would come and drag you off for mentioning Scorl;./ no nooooooooooooo

Fit a coolant level alarm - Some info on the Difflock forum

I did - CLICK ME!

I wondered if the "Land Rover" wasn't in fact a pale imitation, but then it said green, with a tent on, which clinched it. I've ssen the eagle wheel cover on Jeeps up here, which made me wonder.

You're welcome!

You say Which one? Or is it really both? White is unburnt diesel fuel, blue is burning oil - often different faults. I'm guessing from the comment about using oil (sounds a bit high to me) that I'd think about new piston rings. p.s. sorry we've taken so long to reply, most unlike this forum!

That should be pretty distinctive - particularly in South London?

Land Rover, or one it's many allied retail logistics support groups - try LRSeries for starters. Or how about some of these?. [Like Western, I have no allegiance to LRSeries, its just that theirs is the best set of parts pictures ]

That's because there's no cooler in the PS hydaulic circuit and the fluid could boil (but bearing in mind LR spec their vehicles based on extremes, this means it probably only happens in a Himalayan heatwave!)

Sorry to be all scientific, but it makes no significant practical difference where you put the NRV between the pump and jet* on a Land Rover. That said, the LR location (just above the passenger door) does seem a bit odd, as the LR NRV is HUGE. * "Bottom" is better if your jet is more than 34 feet higher than the pump, as the NRV at the jet end in this case will just give you boiling washer fluid, due to the vacuum

Hmmm, not using some of those ever-so-slightly-wrong-side-of-legal-80/100W bulbs are we? Cos' that'd do it nicely

Another possibility is that the wiring (it goes from top front of bulkhead to transfer box switch along the chassis rail, and has a least one joint in it) has gone brittle, corroded and otherwise ceased to conduct. You can get to most of fairly easily (assuming the floorscrews will come out ) by taking the right hand floor panel out.

If its a leak at a wheel cylinder or caliper it will drip down the inside of the tyre. A leaky pipe could spray it anywhere, but I've never known this one to happen*. Is the fluid level going down over time? If not, then most likely of all is that the seals in the master cylinder are going - they can be overhauled, but make sure everything is clean on re-assembly. *But I'm sure the extreme 'compers have ...

Yep, I've got push-button door handles on a late TD!

Don't forget the innocent-sounding but f-in irritating "Brake pedal creeps down under pressure"

If the fuse is 10A, then 10A it is (use 18A cable to keep the voltage up at the far end). The factory arrangment means that the heated rear window won't come on unless there is a decent battery voltage (e.g. the voltage sensitive switch says so). These items are also called Voltage Sensitive Relays (VSR). The diode is to stop the HRW relay being back-fed by anything you might connect to the spare pick-up (little crescent shape top middle) such as a split charge relay. All the above is available as seperate LR bits but don't bother as you'll pay a premium. You could also skip the VSR, but then there is a chance of leaving the window on with the engine off (it's fed by the ignition (white) line) - I'd fit it. The white / black wire might already be present in the chassis harness, but possibly not. It doesn't matter which way round you connect the heater element, whatever suits you door, but you should run an 18A black wire between the door frame and the earth stud at the back of the rear tub, as the hinges aren't brilliant conductors.

1. Mud in the alternator, where from I have no idea 2. The light only comes on when difflock actually engages (the lever lets it rather than telling it), so it wasn't engaging. Do you give it a few seconds at very very low speed, to let it engage? It won't drop in if the two halves are doing 1000rpm relative to each other

Its picking up air, so it must be between lift pump and tank. My guess would be the pick-up pipe in the tank has a hole in it, or the plastic pipe between this the engine compartment has a split.

WRT the snapshot of the parts book (below) I wonder if the (un-numbered) operating arm (between 12 and 17) has been put on 180 degrees out (possible, I think). If so, the difflock light is right and the lever would be wrong, so crwoody's suggestion will answer the question for you.

Unless things have changed, the ignition circuit isn't fused anywhere . Your best bet would be to take a feed off the fuel cut-off solenoid (white wire) which connects a connector on the fuel injector pump to a big multi-way plug up at the bulkhead. Ths line is only live when the ignition is on. It's worth noting that the big fat brown wires from the alternator also go through this multiplug on their way to the dash, which might be a more convenient point to take the feed from? I'd advise putting a fuse in the supply to the fan, if only to stop the motor burning out if the fan is stalled (they take anything up to 30A).

That too, I was just going to say it