errol209

Good one! I can only think that there's a transfer box which works the other way round. DO you know hat type of transfer box you have, as you probably just need a matching switch. A part number adult we be along to help us shortly, no doubt.

And the boost diaphragm in the injection pump (there's a guide in the technical forum. Costs about £10 and takes 30 minutes to do.

Is the 110 12v or 24v? (your sig says FFR, but you mention 12v bulbs) What voltage is the flasher unit in the fuse compartment? (it will say on the top). I think it might be a 24v one ...

A PTO adapter on the back of the transfer box is one way (not cheap), but you can also drive a pump straight off the front of the crank or via a toothed pulley fixed onto the front of the crank pulley and a belt.

No, I don't think eggs. fried or otherwise, are the problem but I'd go with a bad earth strap I'm wondering how big yer pulley is, as the problem goes away at higher revs.

Timken bearing thread

Seagull in the air intake? Oompa loompas in the injection pump? Tank full of petrol? Am I close ???

The Timken bearing finder is here. Choose "Rover Truck - SUV" (would you believe).

Da man sed TD not Tdi The "summat bigger" is 2 1/2 inches, or 62.5mm ish, I think.

IIRC 50mm ID

3000 miles isn't "a reasonable standard of workmanship" at all, particularly from a specialist. This kind of work should last many tens of thousands of miles, and 100,000 wouldn't be an unreasonable expectation for a road dwelling Landy. I would start with a calm phone call and arrange to take it in, repeating to yourself that you want the work re-done at their expense. Mention of the press often works miracles if they fail to see your point of view The small claims procedure is worth the £50 (and you can get that back from the defendant too when you win).

You should be able to get a new seal over the pedal pad and loosen the pedal box enough from inside (without taking pipes off) to fit it. Give it a good siliconing before fitting, if you can, then don't tighten up properly until its nearly set.

Err... take it to bits? You may well need a very very VERY big hammer, as the pistons have probably jammed in the bores, or you have friction welded the con rods to the crank, depending on how long it ran without oil

When mine did this it was leaking through the driver's footwell top right seam, having run across the wing and under the bonnet. I used a tin of aerosol bituminuous spray-on gutter sealant (it runs into gaps too) - sorted.

Inside the engine compartment near the bulkhead, just towards the centre of the car from the clutch, "clipped" to the choke cable (which goes to the carb.). Its a block with two (I think) wires and a small bolt which clamps it onto a special bit of the cable cover.

Vy sank you I'd say sh*t bulbs based on your further info. Good luck!

I'M SORRY, CAN EVERYONE SPEAK UP A BIT, MY EARS ARE STILL RINGING

<mad hair professor voice> I sink ve hav to tek a step bak unt consider vy a 12v bulb in a 12v systim vould blow, ja? </mad hair prof voice - can't be arsed anymore> Filament bulbs go (in my experience of cars, houses and theatre lighting) because they are old (mechanical failure), because they are thumped when hot (ditto), because they are switched on from cold to often (inrush or cold shock), because they are run at too high a voltage (stupidity (110V PAR cans on 240V ...) or badly regulated generator) or because they are cheap sh*t. The first and fourth don't apply (new 12V bulbs in a 12V* car), but frequent on-offs, thumps and cheap bulbs are still runners? *Your alternator is OK, isn't it? I ask cos if it were putting out a high voltage, i.e. the regulator pack is kaput or the battery sense wire is broken, then repeatedly turning a cold (low resistance) filament on at an over-voltage would make them pop

Me too - the gap between the white bit and the red bit on the standard gauge is at about 900C give or take typical LR tolerances. Somewhere in this area would be about right.

White and purple is the feed for the electric fuel pump, if fitted. It's fed from a relay in the fuse compartment. If you haven't got a fuel pump then put a bit of heatshrink over then end. The other problems all sound like bad / broken earths at the lights end (behind the covers in the rear load compartment) or a serious set of crossed connections - sure you didn't disturb something else? The headlights coming on in two is odd, as the only place that lot share a common path is the horn/main beam/flasher/indicator switch - I'd check that out to (they do break).

No problem, HTH.

Mr Bosh's bulb economy drive knows no bounds ...

In reverse order - use the 20A voltage sensitive relay to drive a bigger (100A relay)? You don't need a relay for the rear work lamp (55A is only 5A, most switches are 10A+) but you do need a pilot light on the switch to be 100% legal. Also, being able to turn your front spots on independently of the main beam means you will have to be careful on the road. The "jump start" switch will need to cope with the cranking amps of a cold engine - 300A+ is typical - what did you have in mind? I'm not familiar with the SCR unit you've used, but should the sense line be taken battery side of the isolator? Lastly, If you have a battery sensed alternator this isolator will have to have a second set of contacts for the battery sensing lead - loads of recent threads on here somewhere

... its quite a common fault then, 'coz mine does it too (on when full, off between 7/8 and 1/3 full, then on solidly below 1/4.

Not useful to 99% of readers, but they do have shop, open 7 days a week, about 2 miles from junction 31A of the M6. We use them for work, good people to deal with: Linky. Errol209 (1 mile from junction 29 of the M6)