errol209

Like I said, rings! (no, they shouldn't do that)

Err, yes I'd say the alternator rectifier / regulator pack is on the way out . It won't be doing your battery any favours, particularly as it will sit there using about 100mA parked on the drive...

The fuel pump relay problem sounds like the connector for the left terminal on the realy isn't connecting mechanically: it's possible that it has become loose, bent, or something has broken off. If its a connector block, the individual terminals can be released by putting a jeweller's screwdriver into the small notch in the block near to the faulty terminal.

Sounds almost exactly the smae as the problem on my 90 (apart from the fact you can stop yours with two of you on the pedal) and I've narrowed it down to the servo unit. I think the valve inside isn't allowing the atmosphere in to make the servo (booster) do anything, so I've downloaded a new one of Eblag and will be fitting it this weekend, and am hoping this will fix it (its the only thing left really, so it'd better be ...)

Er, sorry I've been quiet, but auxiliary driving lights (effectively main beam lights if they are aimed parallel to the road) can only be used provided they are arranged so that they do not dazzle oncoming drivers (Vehicle Wiring Regs, one of the schedules, near the bottom). This means that FF's diagram is OK provided that they point at the ground where the dip beam lands (not a good use of the lights) or they only come on when there is nobody coming the other way (i.e. with the main beam).

I thought you sounded cool about drilling holes in your Rangey! Question makes sense now!

There is a small amount of adjustment available - have a look in the Tech Archive, near the bottom, and download the appropriate bit of the workshop manual - but not a huge amount. Drop arms are notorious for working loose, and the steering column UJs wear too: maybe these could be the source of some of the backlash? You can refurb them yourself, in the same way you can also re-build a television, so a professionally refurbed item is typically £220 these days. I wouldn't buy a second hand one unless I'd seen it working perfectly on the vehicle.

You need something that sticks to metal, is resistant to strong acids and is tough as old boots. Sounds like Hammerite or POR-15 to me! Wash it all down with a mild solution of bicarbonate fo soda before you do anything, to make sure the acid is all off.

At the risk of actually being helpful , the office-industry standard machine is the Henry. Pick one up cheap and spend happy hours "customising" it's cute little face?

Welcome back Mr. Western! My 90 (1988) has this stuff fitted all over, even under the seat box and the battery box lid metal side towards the terminals It looks original, but I don't think it was a ever a CSW (cow shed maybe). There again, it doesn't do much good either.

If it's the usual two part (seal and locking strip) jobbie, then yes it will be, with an assistant, a special tool and some washing up liquid. It also possible without the special tool, but you'll do a bit more swearing. Have you tried in the technichnicinal archive? Window locking strip inserting tool type 1 Tool type 2

Sorry, I missed the "(rented)" bit the first time round. I agree with Andy A!

Nah, he won't go for that, no portal / MS opportunities! Can you imagine ... Try item 270452510678 instead ...

couldn't possibly say ... Not familiar withthe fuse boxes on poncy Range Rovers, sorry, but the rest of the sentence is right. Mine goes main beam fuse -> switch (for those times when you don't want half the country lighting up) -> relay terminal. I've also added an extra fuse for the battery to driving light relay feed, 1) because I'm like that and 2)it stops everything going dark when a fuse pops

Possibly - what does the alternator put out when it isn't connected to the battery? (you need to give it 12V on the little brown / black wire whilst doing this - sorry!)

On a 1988 90 (bottom of picture):

Cleveleys? Welcome to Lancashire! Anyway, back to the on-topic-by-the-skin-of-its-teeth: What a lovely layout you have, non-compliant with any version of the regs I've come across (I helped out wiring houses, festivals and theatres in my youth). I am not a qualified sparky, but suggest that you want a seperate switchfuse inside the house (so you can isolate everything outside) and then a 30A spur to the garage, a consumer unit in there with a breaker for the lights and a seperate RCD or ELCB for a mini ring main. That way the lights stay on if you overload the sockets. Go for SWA wiring and metalclad socketry, that's pretty much bomb proof. A pull cord on the lights means you stand less chance of zapping yourself with wet hands (not that it rains much in Lancs ...)

Most people use a light bar as an excuse to buy a snorkel to hide the wiring behind ... I'd take a line off before one of the main beam fuses, the relay can then hide in the fusebox too.

Rings!

A universal joint is only a constant velocity transmission device when both shafts are in line. At any degree of articulation (and worsening with the degree of "bend") a UJ will cause the output shaft to speed up and slow down fractionally from the input shaft's rate of rotation. This is why CVs (constant velocity joints) have replaced UJs for front wheel drive cars, as all series owners will testify. For a prop shaft with two UJs at high degrees of articulation, if the UJs are lined up appropriately, it can experience a point in its rotation where the "speed up" points for both UJs are co-incident, meaning double the problem. It therefore makes sense for the two "speed up" points to be set as far apart in the shaft's rotation, e.g. opposite each other, or failing that 90o apart. It makes no difference to this explanation which end you put the sliding joint.

For the back: "109 rear propshaft lengths measured at half extension on the sliding joint: For Rover diff - 41 13/16" or 1062mm, for Salisbury diff - 40 1/16" or 1017mm." courtesy of Linky For the front, no idea, but the 109 4cyl. one is the same as the 88 4 cyl. Found it, in the TECHNICAL ARCHIVE: Linky 2

The brake servo gets its atmospheric air from inside the brake pedal housing, which is pretty much open to the passenger compartment, in the area you describe. Sounds like it could be air getting in around the servo valve. Does it carry on after you stop the engine? If yes, does it stop if you then press the brake pedal half a dozen times? If so, then I'm right. If not, then it could be the aircon vacuum lines (same vacuum as the brake servo uses, but different pipes) have a tiny split in one of these (quite possible in a 300tdi vintage vehicle, but only if you have aircon!)

Plenty of threads on that too, if you search. IIRC someone on here said 2.5"?

Low alternator output voltage! - slipping belt or pulley, madly low idle revs. Could also be bad rectifier pack, full of mud or worn bushes. Take it to a place that overhauls alternators and they'll sort it, or you can buy a new one