errol209

Listen you, its p*ssing down outside and I'm not going out in it to caliper the swan-neck of me tow ball . Anyway, you'd need a quick FE stress analysis job doing on it, and that's too hard I haven't got a clue there are better minds on the forum than me. You could always look the design standard up in British Standard BS AU113L 1979 or ISO Standard 1103. From a "failure modes" point of view, I would have thought that the plastic failure of the standard "plough" hitch plate (which is only a bit of bent 6mm plate) would come first, assuming you mount it there?

Over the chassis and straight out through the wing, way above the rear crossmember. A bit of a cut and shut, but it worketh!

The 2 M16 bolts on a standard hitch have a yield strength (assuming 8,8 grade) of just over 20 tonnes

You've just got to love standardisation!

The parts book* only lists three NRC8690 (110, up to VIN HA90) and SJC100460 or STC441 (VIN HA90 (1991-ish) onwards) for the 110. Couldn't tell you which is bigger! * and several reliable web sites.

There are apparently 2, one of them is M16x1?

To get the shocks to contibute to this problem they would have to be more or less useless and or disconnected, allowing the axle to bounce uncontrollably. To test, try pushing the bumper down with a regular rhythm - if it eventually takes off then you've found the problem.

Try PA Blanchard or Beam Ends or Craddocks

Front driving lamps should be blue / something (headlamp related), I used blue / yellow. Rear working lamp should be purple / something (not ignition switched) , I think mine is purple/green. Neither is used elsewhere.

Hell's bells! That's a new one, well done!

From your description, I think the steering damper would have to be undone at one end or missing totally! Have you methodically gone through everything on the lists above, plus checking the rear A-frame joints? I have a pattern damper and it's fine.

Open the relevant door. Attached to the door frame at trouser-waistband-ripping-when-seated-height is a loop shaped bracket held on with two (sometimes torx, sometimes not) screws. This bracket (the striker) fits cleverly into a slot in the door, where the lock hides. Using an appropriate tool, loosen the screws just enough to move the loopy bracket, without losing the stack of packings, blocks, shims and fag packets the LR use to take up the "build tolerances" . In your case, slide the loopy bracket towards the outside world about 1 mm and retighten the screws fully (if you don't the door will push bracket about) and try the door. You may need to repeat the excercise backwards and forwards many times to get a good (slam / draught / leak / rattle)balance . p.s. back doors are similar, but the shims look different and you'll need to adjust the striker and the wedgy thing too.

And its probably the handbrake cable

Having spent a few weeks trying to measure exactly what temperature my intercooled 19J was getting up to (92oC, 365oK when working very hard [e.g. 50 mph ) I can add the following nuggets: Provided the sender fits mechanically it'll work Sender response curves vary Standard LR temp gauges have a display range of about 40oC to 90oC-ish in the "normal" band, and go up to about 100oC in the red. They don't read at all below 40oC Senders are generally matched to gauges, and swapping one or the other will give odd results (because of temperature response curves and the difference between "picture gauges" like the LR one and absolute temperature read-outs) China-sourced LED christmas-cracker gauges are up to 5oC out either way My engine is a little warm, but there again it has no fan until 95oC

IIRC the bulkhead has open apertures at the bottom, certainly under each edge (hinge area), whereas it isn't supposed to have any elswhere, other than hinge and wing bolt holes. Cover these with tape first. The double skin bits are the left and right edges and along the top (around the vents) so turning it upside down gives the stuff chance to get there. The point is to liberally coat the inside with Waxoyl, which does involve a bit over over-application.

Check out products such as POR-15 at Frosts for tough paint, inside and out. When you've finished, turn it upside down and Waxoyl it (other waxy anti-corrosion products are available) until it drips.

I just couldn't resist (apologies to more or less everyone) sorry: As I tacked up on a Summer night When glare of the arc were shining bright Far away from the arclight's glare Into the sweet and scented air Of quaint old Haslemere Borne from afar on the gentle breeze Joining the murmur of the summer seas Distant tones of an old world dance Played by the village band perchance On the calm air came floating here I thought I could hear the curious tone Of epiphet, f**k, Sh*t and big bemoan B*stud, rubbish, and where's me mum Cursing, a*se and big bad b*m Far away, as in a trance I heard the sound of the Welder's Dance And soon I heard such a bustling and prancing And then I saw the whole garage was dancing In and out of the houses they came Old folk, young folk, all the same In quaint old Haslemere Every boy took a girl 'round the waist And hurried her off in tremendous haste Whether they knew one another I care not Whether they cared at all, I know not But they hissed as they danced along. And there was the band with that curious tone Of epiphet, f**k, Sh*t and big bemoan B*stud, rubbish, and where's me mum Cursing, a*se and big bad b*m Each one making the most of his chance All together in the Welder's Dance I felt so lonely standing there And I could only stand and stare For I had no boy with me Lonely I should have to be In that quaint old Haslemere. When suddenly hast'ning down the lane A figure I knew I saw quite plain With outstretched hands he came along And carried me into that merry throng And fiddle and all went dancing down. We danced to the band with the curious tone Of epiphet, f**k, Sh*t and big bemoan B*stud, rubbish, and where's me mum Cursing, a*se and big bad b*m Each one making the most of his chance Altogether in the Welder's Dance. Dancing here, prancing there Jigging, jogging ev'rywhere Up and down, and round the town Hurrah! For the HFH Welder's Dance!

I'm sorry, I am of the south and do not understand your quaint local patois Am I to undersatnd that your response is in 't affirmative? (damn damn damn)

FWIW, all my parts books (1987 and 1995) show the spacer block for the 2.5D and 2.5TD engine. I've also checked the "recycle bin" in the shed but I don't have one. There are NSS (not supplied seperately).

Reet champion! Sorry, I'm from Buckinghamshire - no idea what came over me . Anyway, I'd go for MC seals, as it's about the only thing left! Good luck! ps. I know I said MS, its to earley inn thee mourning four write spleling!

A bizarre take on the "Floral Dance", and that was just the langauge. We should never laugh at these things ( ), 'cos sooner or later ( ) it'll be one of us ...

Never ever a good start! That sounds like badly worn track rod ends - £10s of pounds to fix Err - someone has repaired the boot floor / A-frame mounts / chassis nearby so badly the tester reckons it's unsafe. Can't guess at a fix cost, 'cos it could be quite a job. The top driver's side spring / damper mount is rusty / perforated The passenger side spring / damper mount is rusty / perforated That's because the track rod ends are knackered! If you want a project, buy it, but my guess would be that there will be many things wrong that you will only find when you pull it apart. Never trust a seller who can't find the relevant paperwork.

You get dirty - Watch with Les

Does the smoke come from under the middle seat by any chance? Are you absolutely certain that you have a high current earth wire : between battery negative and transmission case (gearbox) between chassis and gearbox between chassis and battery negative (for insurance) ?

The big problem with wildly intermittent faults is finding the one tiny problem which isn't there 99% of the time. My two guesses would be a wiring fault, but it would have to be in the low-current side of things, coz the system generally charges fine. I'm not familiar with the P38, but I guess it has an ECU - can you get the fault codes read? The other is the alternator regulator circuit getting hot and shutting down the output. These can be overhauled, and anywhere that can overhaul it can test it too. Was there anything in common (other than you were driving) with the events? Duration of journey, weather, heavy load, speed, etc.?