errol209

... What the fork is this (random lump of corrosion)? It won't start My nodular flange widget is stuck - how do I remove it using basic tools? I've let all the smoke out of the electrics, and now I've run out of paper clips Can I fit (random but obscure LR part) to a (random vehicle)? I've just bought a ton and half of corrosion on wheels, what do you think? Should there be water in this bit? I've built this (thing) out of (random parts), how do get it registered? Perhaps some re-titling in the Tech Archive might lighten the day

Can't tell without getting the bottom off, finding all the bits, and seeing what else is bent / broken first. Need photos! More input!

Having thought about this, you haven't got a cat crouching on the chassis rail under there have you? My 2a took to miaowing a traffic lights, took me ages to find and even longer to find some gloves thick enough to avoid arterial damage removing aforesaid stowaway. (I'm not joking either)

I dare you

Transmission noises and vibrations are typically worst at a certain speed (i.e. a particular rate of rotation of UJ, CV, wheel, diff, prop, etc) Your initial description is a noise that is worst at a particular set of revs when under load, which is why I think it is either something on or attached to the engine (or gearbox, like the handbrake cable) or something resonating in time with it.

Fibre washer?

When I've had noises like this (low revs, lots of loud pedal) it has been a result of the engine oscillating, in my case causing the exhaust to leap about. It could be anything moving in sympathy though - body / floor panels, bullet connector in dashboard, shotgun cartridge in battery compartment ( ). Just be logical looking and you'll find it eventually (5 minutes after you go bad trying, probably )

Loose exhaust bracket, or something near to the exhaust? Battery cable to the starter motor waving about?

I am with HFH - anyone who puts forward a key feature as being that no-one could tell the police the make (apart from the huge stickers down the side??) is a very interesting seller indeed. Apart from the very tired suspension, chronic rust, bad door fit and general shabbiness the car is worth the current £350, surely?

A touch over 12V while "resting".

yorself Mr Bish wiv nobs on. I suppose I was exploring the difference between commanding (requesting) a freespool operation and it actually happening. Just because you attached your "more-pressure-than-the-molten-core-of-Jupiter" air system to the freespool ram, it doesn't 100% follow that anything actually happens at the winch end. You challenge types are getting darn close to operating goods lifts! I will also declare I work in the UK railway industry, where these kind of things are somewhat over-regulated and over-designed (we have little lights that come on to tell us that other bigger lights should be on, but aren't and alarms for things that aren't described), so I might be a bit risk averse

Don't think it goes - a bare Griffon engine is 81 inches long.

Don't forget the chapter "Collected Forum Angle Grinder Incidents"

I very much doubt it works well, as described in the super-shouty webpage. I'd stick to passive cathodic protection methods (Galvanising), solid film exclusion technologies (Waxoyl)and trying to seperate steel and aluminium junctions as much as possible.

I handpainted my whole 90, and discovered that the primer stuff Rustoleum recommend for painting Aly actually works well for any paint - a friend used some to repaint his mountain bike (with smoothrite top coat) and hasn't managed to scrape much of it off in use.

Yes, it could be. There's a fairly big double-ended spring that holds the lever ball down (FRC7414). You should be able to change / see it from above by removing the lever gaiters. Page 411 of the parts bookmay help explain.

(pssst - Jeff - Log posted five years ago - he may have forgotten the question by now ...)

Oh ye of short memories - there was a production series machine with 2WD (RWD) only (it was in a feature in LRO ). Did the world end? No! Edit: In fact: HDC - Oh noes! Never catch on. No low box?!?! Rubbish!

Possibly a bit of placebo effect (you want it to be better so it does sound better) but more likely you've filled all the gaps and spaces with grease and it isn't banging about so much now!

THIS IS NOT A REAL SUGGESTION Surely you can fit it with a virtual gas pedal as well then /NOT A REAL SUGGESTION

Linky

90 / 110 you can just unplug the black box (behind the speedo), on later vehicles with a pink relay and resistor mmgemini did this and it worked.

Isn't this the coil / leaf / V8 /HCPU /109 confection we struggled to identify a few months ago? Someone snapped it at the roadside I think, but I can't find the original thread.

I'm not sure how much faith to put in it, but Bearmach have it as Rover-only number. You are right that no-one seems to stock one (apart from good old Landrover Venezuela).

240W of something/anything. It's intended for things like the fridge feed for a caravan, working lights, etc. but I had a couple of 12V sockets for chargers, worklamps etc. on it.