errol209

First question: Defender_90_110_WSM_book1. p7 pdf.pdf Second question - pass. A Defender without selectable difflock? 2wd only?

I hope the hair dryer element doesn't work* * KIDS - DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME

No worries, one more regular question sorted!

The traditional list of suspects (all of which you'll find tons of info on if search for "steering wobble" or "steering judder" )include: Panhard rod bushes knacked Wheel bearings loose / knacked Radius arm bushes knacked Swivel pin pre-load wrong / worn bearings Steering column UJs knacked Propshaft UJs knacked (good contender given the symptoms) Diff drive flange nut loose or pinion bearings going knacked Have fun

If you have an assistant available, put the bonnet up, start the motor and get them to waggleTM the steering wheel while you listen - only other cause is the steering column itself (bearings), but it's least likely (and most expensive to fix )

Sorry, it was a 300Tdi diagram, but I think my logic holds Source of diagram 300TDi 97 model year, see page 4.1., Item G101 Extract of diagram: 1E3 is written in full as 1 x 103 or 1000 Ohms. At 12V this allows a current of 12mA (0.012A). The warning light is shown as 1.2W, which at 12V gives a resistance of 172.8 Ohms. I guess from this that the resistor value is a compromise between providing sufficient excitation current when the bulb has blown vs. the bulb only coming on dimly (because of the parallel resistor).

Sounds like the threads on the plastic plug are stripped. Don't know if you can get them seperately (40 miles from my parts books), but I bet a scrappie would have one.

Having just found a value for it in the 200 tdi wiring diagram (1000 ohms) the maximum power this thing could ever dissipate is 0.196 of a Watt, so "2W Res 1K D1K £0.22" on this page here would do just fine, if you don't mind a minor mod to your harness to fit it - the joys of heatshrink

It looks like a Fairey mechanical PTO driven drum winch, converted to hydro operation (just like wot mine is going to be). Try looking for a model number like 525 or a serial number, and Superwinch in Tavistock should be able to tell you more. There also *should* be a maker's plate giving the maximum capacity. These things will pull forever, albeit a bit slowly

It's to stop the fuel solenoid staying open when the ignition goes off, has been covered on here recently, IIRC. In fact, see OP ^

I had to change the back door on the 2a after my x-wife (available at all good divorce courts) managed to reverse into a house . Compared with the old genuine one that came off, the new aftermarket one was very lightweight and obviously built to a budget = the difference in price. IIRC just about all back door apertures are similar (wait for corrections ...) and the doors will differ only in lock fittings, wiper holes, HRW wiring holes, wiring duct bracket holes and fittings for the door card? What do you mean it doesn't fit? You just aren't slamming it hard enough

I found this, which confirms the VIN bit, and the G on the end is Genuine, so it will fit as well as the original Linky

Glad it's not just me that does things like that then ...

Have you changed the reverse light switch? that can stop you geting reverse too.

Just cranked, couldn't tell the difference from normal as it started OK and then ran like a dog for a minute or two. I didn't try and get any air out of it. Luck perhaps, but it keeps happening! Glad you sorted it though.

What, and spoil the challenge? On a related but unhelpful note, I haven't had to bleed mine ever, including simultaneous lift pump & filter changes?

There are 10 other feeds that branch off the white ignition line from the switch - with the ign. on, do you get 12V on: Fuses 9 and 10? How about on the white wires on the back of the warning light multiplugs? and lastly, the white wire on the engine harness multi-plug (under the bonnet next to the clutch pedal)?

... and an exerpt from the wiring diagram 1 and 2 are dip beam, 3 is the fog light, 4 and 5 are main beam, 6 and 7 are side lights, 8 is the heater blower motor, 9 and 10 are the ignition switched accessories (instruments,etc.), 11 and 12 are the always-on accessories (cabin light, cigar lighter).

Link for relay question

LEDs do burn out, but they take 10,000 hours plus or so (over a year continuously...) Its most likely the switch or the wiring to it nearby, and yea verily it is (probably - it is on mine) a floor and tunnel cover out job.

Can you get a more detailed picture of the components on the circuit board, or at least tell us the numbers on the black chip towards the right? It might give us some clues There again

My 2.5TD exhaust is definitely 51mm (2 inch), honest guv!

"Da law" says you can't have a higher POWER bulb (more W's) the the manufacturer fits. What you can so (and I am about to do, and many others no doubt already have done) is to upgrade to +60% or +90% "Xenon" bulbs, which give more light than standard, but at the same wattage. More modern headlamp reflectors can also help, and all this assumes your not talking about sealed beam units

Agree strongly. If it continues to work, it can only be because the circuit is completing itself some other way, by arcing from coil terminal to ground somewhere. A diagram to ponder:

I read it as an acceptabe alternative to anything, lap belts, fixed diagonals with no lap belt, standard 3-point inertia reels, etc.