errol209

White inserts in nyloc nuts = imperial (probably UNF in this case) Blue inserts = metric Spanner size conversion

Open forum isn't the best place ... PM comments on the way

No other way but remove the flange - good luck getting the nut off (many posts on this recently, IIRC). The bolts should go in from the prop end, and someone has decided not to do this in the past (there is no good reason to put them in head to gearbox). As for oil: "the transfer box needed an oil change anyway, didn't it? " or "don't you just love the smell of onions on a Sunday morning?"

You need a battery master switch with a seperate circuit for the alternator warning light circuit (older alternators are "machine sensed" and don't much mind being cut off dead, whereas modern systems are "battery sensed" and don't like to be parted. All you ever wanted to know about alternator wiring: look near the bottom. for parts, Google FIA battery master switch - about £20.

Probably not, but see Linky 2. Not good. Yes: Linky 1 Linky 2 May the search force be with you ...

Repeat after me - "always change an axle set" Its quite possibly because the new pads are begiinning to bed in and are snatching compared to the old ones, making it all feel a bit odd. There was a thred on here about a week or so ago on the same subject

Not sure I can help much more, but I can cheer you up a bit - its raining and not very warm here, too! Good luck from not-so-sunny Lancashire

It does sound like it's jamming when the engine is hot, doesn't it? Is the solenoid you have a Genuine part? Greetings to you in Centurion, I worked down in Sandton, Jo'burg for a few weeks. How is the winter?

Is it related to road speed, revs, just second or any gear, worse on acceleration, deceleration or what? Have you got a puncture or picked up a wheel clamp by accident ?

This THREAD then geddit? sod you then. search result for Tracking and string

Shame!

Just got chance to examine this fine machine in more detail: dig the footwarmer battery and fuse location! I shall bid immediately, unless the forum is think of buying it to release it into the wild dump it in an unmarked grave

And a tax exempt '72 92.5 inch 2.5TD rangie with no bonnet (exposed fan) to boot - ferpectly safe and legal

What's wrong with pink balls? Ah... One's jacket, por favor ...

Or possibly a broken wire in the warning lamp circuit at the alternator end - whip the plug off and see if there is 12v ish on the thin wire (brown and black on mine) with the ignition on. If not, the wire is broken.

These are intended to fit on the power feed to your CB, which has a 4W output, so the 10A one should be plenty. As Western says , it is always better to stop the interference at source (just look at an FFR machine) so it doesn't radiate using tha wiring as an aerial. The main sources on a car are the ignition (if fitted), alternator / dynamo and the wiper and washer motors. Distributor condensors come in handy cans with wire tails, and can be connected across live (12V) and earth as close as possible to the source, and make a world of difference (I can actually listen to 198 long wave (AM) with the engine on!). You can get purpose-made suppressors, but all they are is a rugged capacitor with a mounting tab (can't find any on eBlag at the moment).

Now look what you've made me do! Separated him from his food: no xmas card for me now

By camber, you mean the angle of the wheel to vertical when seen from the front? Positive camber means the wheels lean out at the top. Different camber each side means the swivel pin bushes or bearings gone - jack it up and try to rock the wheels with your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock. Movement / Clunky noises are fatal. Castor is the angle the swivel pin axis makes to vertical when seen from the side of the car - if this is different at each end then the axle is twisted along its length or a major machining / bodge issue. Toe-in is how much the wheels point together at the front.

Its about as hard as a male adult can pull on a 24" breaker bar, ish.

I'll email him at work for you - what's it worth?

Snigger

Hmmmm... shock absorber next to steering box - could it help protect the steering box from shocks?

Ex MOD, so its probably a 24v bulb, replace it with a 12v item. No idea about the second bit, sorry. Have you looked in the workshop manuals for wiring diagrams?

Paul, If you do find a resistor and work out any details for it (resistance value in particular, location, etc.) please post the info., as this question crops up now and again

I'd go with that (if its fitted) 'cos power is volts squared / resistance - you've probably fried it (by getting it to dissipate four times the power). To get the same current drop you need a resistor double the normal value (since amps = volts / resistance) and twice the power rating. Anyone know the right value for a 12V system? There could be a toasty bit of loom somewhere ...