errol209

Ticking or madness

On a slightly serious note, an outdoor place of my acquintance supplied something called "no-see-um" netting, which looked suspiciously like 15 denier tights ( bugger - displaying knowledge of SHMBO apparel in public ). Scarily large midges? What, like wasps ?

I used a bit of surplus curtain track for feeding mains cables in around my conservatory, with a bit of wire taped on, and then used that to pull the cables through. I guess any reasonably stiff thing like fencing wire would also work.

Scotchlock connectors as new build? I know LR do some funny things, but surely not, with a ready set of connections to connect to right at hand, and civvy and Mil trailer sockets? I'm really not sure ... Anyway, hope you find your fault before the ticking drives you mad!

I read another thread about this last week (on here, of course), so while I had the lid up (and the cricket on) I tried it - I was skeptikakal to say the least. However, GO DO IT NOW! Can't believe the improvement

One of your indicator connections is connected to 12v - there is a purple wire (12v permanent feed) in the same area as the bodge bunch of wires you describe.

Remove big air hose from front of heater box (under bonnet). Remove tights from willing partner . Edit tights to size and fit over heater inlet. Refit big hose. Keep balance of tights for next filter change. Some experimentation may be required for find midge / air flow balance in terms of denier ratings!

There's one in the Haynes and one in the Owner's book and (only 'cos I friendly like that) one here: 90wiring.pdf (90 and 110 are the same, just more wire in a 110)

I'd start with a fuel leak onto the exhaust manifold or the engine earth strap is broken causing the handbrake cable to carry the starter current. Second choices would be a hole in the exhaust or runaway glow plugs.

Does the pedal feel like it starts moving the cylinder immediately? if not, then whip the cover off the pedal box and adjust the push rod so that it nearly but not quite touches the master cylinder ram when at rest. PDWA? big lumpy thing with two ports on the chassis rail under the master cylinder? It restricts the pressure to the rear wheel cyclinders to make sure the front locks up first.

Yep, relatively simple, though you might like to consider renewing the swivel oil seals (the ones the size of a dinner plate) while you're at it - they have to be loosened off to get the right reading anyway. There are a couple of threads under "swivel" in the tech archive and the Haynes is actually quite helpful on the process

Is it fire retardent? Avoid it if it isn't, otherwise it will help a bit.

- Phew! (had to ask though, sometimes its the simple things and I forget my head ...) I'm guessing a badly adjusted Panhard would just knock the steering off-centre, not cause it to wobble. Assuming you've done everything up properly, then that probably just leaves a problem which existing before (like incorrect swivel pre-load) or your new 'box is faulty. - I don't know about 6 degrees myself, sorry, its just the only other thing I could think of!

Starting with the obvious : Panhard Rod back on? An adult will be along soon to discuss 6 degrees of castor correction vs a four inch lift ...

A question of consequences? I appreaciate that the leading end of a prop coming off ain't good, but it has to overcome a bit of friction and break four bolts (in shear) before it's a problem. People report snapped halfshafts, but not snapped prop bolts (anyone?). The drop arm / box shaft is in regular shear, the realtionship is vital and if the arm falls off its probably fatal. I'm surprised that the nut isn't crenalated!

I don't think the bearings are availabe seperately through normal channels, but you could try some of your local bearing suppliers? If you can find a source, let us know!

It's mostly there to protect the steering box from shocks. I can't conceive that a solid bar of those dimensions adds much mass for damping purposes! (I only used the link for the picture, honest, not the physics!) On a non-PAS vehicle a retro-fit (optional) damper helps protect your thumbs ...

In the absence of kinky girlfriends (I'm in no state for that anyway) and small passengers, the world will be a slightly better place for knowing that a cubby box it is. Has anyone had any experience of obtaining small pieces of trim cloth/ I guess its a call to Exmoor / trackers. I'll be after enough "Rayleigh" cloth to recover a cubby top ...

Recent quote from supplier - "We didn't get you a Britpart one 'cos we don't want it to come back. We wouldn't supply Britpart anyway without asking first" Makes you wonder really, but most Britpart stuff I've had has generally been as good as BM, Allmakes, etc.

Your problem is caused by having a 2.5TD engine - they all do this to some degree (ranging from yes to lots). There are plenty of threads on the forum - Use the (search) force. Example. You can make it better (less) but it won't go away.

Indeed, but then the bulb goes out when then the load is off ... Coat!

You have - when I was pointlessly a member, they would only recover form up to 25m from a public highway and then only if they could actually drive their vehicle up to your vehicle. Fat lot of good 'laning!

Removing the drop arm is patience and the willingness to get physical with the f****er (percussively, of course). I haven't bought it yet, but if you change the drag link to the "wrong" version of the solid (Dan Bar) type, you get the bolt-on damper bracket for free. That said, it's only a bit of angle and two U-bolts: Heavy duty track rod / drag link - picture for illustration only!

I can't get that to work, but see the following examples:

Derbyshire? That's in the Midlands, down south isn't it? Ey up, I'll get me mack ...