errol209

I had to look it up as well - good job we have the interweb these days ...

Third member (US) = differential (UK)

Damn I had to find a picture! Shall we take it in turns Ralph?

Headlights? Little step / hole in the headlamp surround next to the headlamp lens, one at the top and one to the side of each headlamp. 3 or 4mm flat-blade screwdriver. Locations arrowed:

I don't winch either, but two observations (I have too much time on my hands): Even with an air-operated freespool (the ones I've seen anyway) you have no failsafe indication of "engaged" (oo-er) either? Secondly, it wouldn't be a complex job to Araldite (other brands of epoxy are available) a small magnet onto the lever and detect the engaged position with a reed switch (all sealed and only one moving part anyway) or hall effect sensor (ditto but one less moving part), wired to an LED on the dashboard? Jus' thinkin' aloud ...

Uh oh ... Thread Thread Thread Lets say opinion varies ...

A quick "schmooze of da web" suggests a typical voltage drop across biggish (250A rated) contacts per 100A could be 30mV or so, so your Albright's contacts aren't right at all, and the isolator isn't clever.

^^ I'd go with that. The only difference in a Defender is that the cable has a different part number for the 200Tdi (ANR1419), same fittings, so I guessed it was a just a different length from the NA cable.

If you open them fully you'll see that (IIRC) there are two different holes for the linkage - try the other. Also, I found that bending the hinge strips away from the flaps a little helped the sealing too.

Everything you ever wanted to know

IIRC there is a pin you need to push in through a hole in the lock mechanism.

Are we sitting comfortably? Then I'll begin. Once upon a time I had a 1967 S2a 109. She was five months older than me, and we had many happy outings together and quality time spent re-building front swivels, swapping springs, adding winches etc. Then we got involved in hot-air ballooning. Being of the nine-seat persausion, we got roped in as the retrieve vehicle, often being put to the test hauling trailer, avec balloon, balloon crew, pilot and retrieve navigator out of muddy fields, etc. At this point she developed an appetite for short-side halfshafts. Fair enough, the first one was probably my fault, and I put it down to 30yo metal suddenly being asked to work quite hard. Long side shaft out, diff off (including f***in pinion flange nut), dismember diff to hammer twisted, jagged, lump out, re-assemble diff, replace, re-fit half shafts. All well, for a week. I was reversing out of a car parking space, not exactly arduous. Bang. So, here we go again, complicated by the effort I'd put into doing the pinion nut up last time. Repeat the exercise. Well, imanige my horror a few weeks later when I fail a short ballon-trailer laden ascent* due to a lack of rear drive. I have thought ahead this time, and have a pair of halfshafts in the back. Short one gone again. Field strip and replace. In field. A nice field, but a field nonetheless. Let us skip forward two more halfshafts forward, when my friendly local LR parts counter man says unto me: "You're going through a lot of halfshafts" "Yes, and gear oil, skin and patience" "Make your own gaskets do you?" "Eh?" "Well, you never buy any and the one for the diff is quite a big, thick thing" It turns out that previous owner (caravanner) had replaced a halfshaft but not the big thick card gasket, which meant that the halfshaft ends weren't aligned properly causing them to twist off under big loads. I never noticed ... * Note to self - DO NOT JUST ENGAGE REVERSE AND BACK DOWN: YOU HAVE £5000 WORTH OF TRAILER ON THE BACK

I can't answer all the questions, but why replace the calipers? The main failure is the chromey bit on the pistons not being chromey anymore, so just replace them with stainless at 25% of the cost, including seals. I'm a fan of the Automec copper brake pipe kits, but I know opinions differ (and let the debate start )

You're not going to like me, but if it isn't the solenoid and earthing, it can only be the power wiring or the motor. Can you access the solenoid reasonably easily (never owned a 3, sorry)? If so, try connecting +ve jump lead to the motor side terminal and touch the other end to the battery +ve - the engine should crank, in which case its the wiring to the solenoid. If not, the it has to be the motor or the lead from solenoid to motor, in which case IIRC it'll have to come off for ease of inspection. Likely motor faults are brushes gone (replacable) and / or commutator burnout, or possibly it's full of mud.

If it is just hung on one dowel, a bit of scientific booty-shaking should eventually wiggle it free. A more damage method is to get the finest edged weapon in the armoury (I use an old 1/2" wide woodwork chisel) and introduce it along the gasket line using a light propellant (a bit of wood or the rubber mallet) alternately each side of the hung stud.

... but you love it really

The wiring is goosed and you have a bad earth. Remove the covers in the back left and back right corners of the rear tub and investigate the rot / damage / corrosion.

Slightly deeper observation - If your 15A fuses aren't blowing at 33A (a 120% overload) then they are seriously rubbish and a hazard in themselves!

On each circuit, add the W's up and divide by 12 to get the amp rating. 4 x 55W = 220W, so just under 20 amps. The fuse rating should just more than this number (20A) but less than the rating of the wire (more than 20A) to avoid fires - do you know the wire rating / size / number?

The solenoid clicking proves that works, but it isn't a high current circuit. The sluggish turnover when you bypass the ignition switch suggests that the ignition switch circuit isn't brilliant, but also that either the starter motor is on its last legs, or you have a poor earth from engine to chassis or chassis to engine (or both). If you have a jump lead, connect the (black) battery negative to the engine block direct and try again. The age of the battery is no guide to how well charged it is! What voltage is it reading? Starting handle - if you look in the centre of the crankshaft pully, there should be a "dog" to take the end of a starting handle, wich goes in through the hole in the bumper, through the front cross member and into the dog. You won't be able to swing the engine far enough fast enough without a proper handle If you do start it on the handle, keep your thumb out of the way and give it a healthy swing!

The bronze "cheese" dovetail (part number 332942) has probably get a step worn it, allowing the door to thrash up and down. Get a new one and play the game of getting the lock striker, cheese and cheese holder all lined up!

Ditto

I worry about getting it wrong, and RAVE is a no-no (works laptop ) I'll do my best to live up the Western Gold Standard!

Phew!

Eco-unfriendly method - lots and lots of white spirit and kitchen roll Cranial lumps method - less white spirit, then into the washing machine. "Heavy Soiling"? Certain death method - Suggest to SWMBO that you need new set of recovery gear etc.