errol209

I've worked it out - its a trick question. Its a Land Rover, so the answer is "gun it, drive through the side of the shed, over the herbaceous border and away" . Am I right?

Hmmmm. Since the sidelight circuit also includes tail lights and side marker lights, so you could do a little stretching and make your landy 291m long (at 3m side marker light spacing)? I grant you the breakover angle will be poor, but you'll turn heads. Not corners though

Drill sizes for metric taps

I read it is "at the frontest front", so I have a slightly narrow (vertically) plate held in horizontal runners welded to the front of the bumper (the runners stop the edge of the plate getting cracked). According to my reading, it is just too small (1988 model), but after two MOT passes at two garages, I guess its close enough. Ill get you a photo if it ever stops raining.

bl**dy-prevoius-numpty-owner-snashn-fracken-radio-wired-on-2.5mm-twin-and-earth-should-have-f***in-known- made-me-look-a-t**t .. Ahem. In a correction to my previous post, its a 2.5A fuse each side, good for 30W or about six 5W bulbs or about 100 LED ones.

Further to Western's answer, I can confirm (having done it) that you can also connect them directly at the bullet connector provided behind each headlight (red/white on one side and red/black on the other, I think. A 5W sidelight draws 5/13's of an amp, and the car has a 5A fuse for each side. (fit for 60W or nearly 12 side lights). The bullet sockets are probably cakked up, so be prepared to replace them.

Your old one will be a bi-metallic one, so it only needs two connections. Your new one is electronic, so it needs an earth: Ignition feed to flasher unit pin 49 Connect flasher relay pin 31 to earth (this will be the wire you haven't got - use a bit of 8 amp, plenty big enough, connected to a handy bit of bulkhead. Connect flasher relay pin 49a to your switches. If I remember right then the ignition feed will be white and the wire to 49a should be green and something. Have fun!

After my experience with injectors, you could also try: Make sure the bottoms of the injector holes are clean enough to eat off - cotton earbuds dipped in diesel are good Don't overdue the torque on the holding down bolts, but make sure both are done up evenly Never re-use washers, false economy. Probably a bit late now, but try and keep the same injector in the same hole afterwards, as the pipes from the pump "bed in" to the mating face on the injector. We're all rooting for you, hope it goes well.

Would you believe mine doesn't leak? The biggest leak was from the lower corners of the hardtop to windscreen seals. One is a big rubber jobby and the other is a foam strip. The water was getting in under the foam one and then round the end of the rubber one. A roll of nice thick closed cell sealing strip from CPC in Preston and a new rubber seal bonded on (see below) fixed that one. Next was the vent flaps, which didn't compress the seal at the top even when shut. Remove them, ease the hinge away from the flap slightly and put them back on. Next was the joint half way back along the roof, where the panels overlap. Step one - after a week of hot weather, apply Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure until it stops disappearing. Then apply copious amounts of Frosts' Seam Sealant to every seam, inside and out, including inside the gutters and round the rear hardtop vents. (both products from Frosts Automotive Restoration). Have to re-paint the roof soon... Paranoia (and a suggestion on AN Other discussion group) suggested filling the longitudinal ridges on the roof (if you have them) with builder's foam through holes drilled upwards from underneath. I've done this, but can't tell if it's made any difference or not. Lastly was the ill-fitting roof to rear sides seal, which are ridiculously expensive. I eased the joint apart after undoing the 65000 bolts and added a run of self-amalgamating tape, then did it up again. Bingo. Dry. Still dry.

You need to push the central pin in on each one (they are about 2mm diameter) first using a nail and hammer. Odds on you'll lose 90% of the pins, so you'll need new "studs" to put the arches back on. BTW, did you get the nuts with your indicators?

The alternator warning light sits between the ignition live feed and the output of the alternator. It lights up when one side of the circuit goes to a low voltage. In theory, if you could keep the alternator spinning and turn the ignition off it would light up, but more normally it comes on when the alternator stops with the ignition on (e.g. the alternator belt has broken). If it doesn't EVER come on, the bulb has gone. If it comes on just before you trun the engine over, goes out when you start it and stays out, then the alterantor is doing something, but 12.8V is a bit low, 14.0 to 14.4V is much more normal.

K Motors / LR Direct is my one and only - surprised to hear any complaints at all. I've traded with them for about 19 years on three sites, and it's been handed down in the family once! They have had three numpties on parts in the last three years, but Ralph is a sound chap and Barry does part numbers from memory.