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Reg

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Everything posted by Reg

  1. Hi, My P38 sits for weeks at a time unused, as a result the battery has let me down a couple of times. I have it parked under a carport so at the moment when required I clip on a battery charger to give it a top up. As my battery is a double post type, I have been thinking of using the spare posts to connect a remote plug to charge the battery without having to leave the bonnet open. So far I am still looking for a suitable plug and somewhere to locate it. It will need an inline fuse close to the battery to guard against a short. Has anybody done this, any suggestions please.
  2. I bought a back seat conversion for my P38 from ebay which was delivered to my son's house where the car was waiting ready to ship. When I got to check it I found that there were no belts and there was only one fixing bracket. The vendor sold it complete with all brackets. It is now decorating my garage floor..... about as useful as a chocolate teapot.
  3. Thanks Todd for the part number, as I am fitting shafts & bearings into a modified transfer case I dont think the tolerances will be the same hence the need for shims. The transfer case that Im robbing only had one thrust washer so it was rotating on the housing face at the other end.
  4. I've learned a lot about EFI for the 4cyl LR engine from these posts, now understand the mystery of injectors and adapter plates. Only problem now is I bought my LR for its simple engineeering and now Im thinking of fitting black boxes and making it all inscrutible.
  5. I am considering a Magajolt upgrade to my 2.25 engine and like the idea of going injected as well, is there a thread showing how this is done on the 4 cyl engine?
  6. Hi, I am currently assembling an Ashcroft S3 high ratio transferbox using parts from a spare box. I have stripped the box down to it's components and found difficulty extracting the output shaft as the previous "rebuilder" had ground off/broken the eyelets on the circlip. To remove the circlip I had to jam it with one screwdriver and punch it loose with a second screwdriver. The bearings and shafts are serviceable. I therefore need : a replacement circlip for the output shaft. no part number known a washer intermediate shaft part no 521328 in addition to the one supplied with the box. several shims for intermediate shaft part no 561197 (quantity your suggestion!) Bottom inspection plate studs x 3 Speedometer drive pinion oil seal x1 Can anybody point me to a parts supplier who can source the bits I need please?
  7. IMOHO A series 1 should ride on cart springs and have a series gearbox, otherwise the expense of modding the coiler bits and gearbox make the job extremely complicated. My S1 has a S3 engine gearbox and axles, Disco power steering and remote servo assisted brakes. When I got it the chassis was in need of repair, footwells were full of holes and the driveline was shot. I chose to use TI parabolic springs for the ride, a S3 rear crossmember and outriggers plus S3 footwells suitably cut down to fit. The result was great as I could use S3 pedal boxes for accelerator brake and clutch. No problem with parts as the outriggers etc were standard LR off the shelf parts. My ex military engine was almost new, same with the gearbox although it does hate fast gearchanges. I get better gearing by using bigger tyres and a later speedo. I have an Ashcroft high ratio transfer case in a box in the garage ready to fit but in current trim she has a respectable turn of speed and can wheelspin on dry tarmac in 2nd if pushed. (Respect for halfshafts does not encourage this). Second hand Series 3 gearboxes and axles are relatively easy to source and overhaul. Bits are cheap. I have a couple of axles and a complete gearbox which came from a cheap donor car which had been lightly bent.
  8. The compression in PSI should be 150ish, I think you are reading off a dual scale and the low figures are BAR.
  9. Re starting a S3 on the handle, mine runs now runs a contactless dizzy with about 15 deg of static advance. With the battery she will start instantly, but no chance with the handle as the advance is too great. If my battery goes flat I need to retard the ignition to TDC then a hand crank works OK. It is worth scratching the relevent marks on the dizzy adjuster bracket so you can reset without a strobe light. In my dads days a lot of pre war motors were fitted with a manual advance/retard on the steering column this was useful to hand start the engines.
  10. Several years ago when rebuilding my S1, I decided to remake my doors as they had been repaired with rivetted patches and looked dreadful. My solution was to construct a 1 off former. I carefully removed the old skin after drawing a copy of the door onto thick MDF (Ply would have been better). The door handle aperture etc were carefully copied. The shape was jigsawed out of the MDF including the door handle cutout. The old skin was laid over the MDF and the wood was trimmed to fit into the old skin. All edges were power sanded to form the necessary radiuses where the skin is folded around the former. As the doors are mirror images, this shaping was made on both sides of the board until the old skin snugly fitted over the former. It was then fairly simple to take a new sheet of soft ally cut oversize, clamped to the former with G clamps and bits of offcut. Screws were driven through the ally into the former where the hinge straps were to be fitted later. This kept the sheet firmly positioned on the wood during beating. Where the ally was to be formed around sharp corners it was cut with snips. An undersize cutout was made for the door handle to allow for folding. The edges of the ally sheet were then carefully and progressively beaten to 90 deg all around the the former and into the door handle cut out using a panel beating hammer and hand beater. Once completed the ally was removed from the former and offered up to the refurbished frames. After a little fettling the ally fitted and was trimmed to suit the size of the overlap to be folded around the frame. Finally the folds were beaten around the frame and finished with a car door skin crimping tool (Sealey I think). Door no 2 was simply built using the reverse side of the former. The results were surprisingly professional and original, the worst job in the end was refitting the hinge straps to allign the doors. I was careful to avoid hitting the face of the door when hammering to prevent dents appearing on the nice flat ally. In theory other Series panels could be constructed using the above principles, wings and body side panels should be possible.
  11. Re my last post, I did not add such obvious things such as remove wheel etc or the post would have been too long!
  12. Airbag replacement is not a big job needing loads of tools! A flat concrete base. A good jack, (in your toolkit) and a few good blocks of wood, (you did mention joinery), to block up the chassis. Do one wheel at a time. Make sure the supports are safe. Enthusiasts have been known to change a bag during an off road trip. It a good idea to get a garage pressure wash underneath to remove the mud , then wash under the arches again with a hose when you get home. Go indoors and leave it overnight to dry out. Get a glass of your favourite tipple and switch on the internet. Google P38 airbag, you will find loads of information. Then type Range rover p38 on Ebay UK , you will find 100's of second hand and new parts listed. Most P38 expire from blown engines, and a dead car will yield loads of useable bits. Next free day get a good lead lamp or torch and crawl under the car, examine the bits and you will find the bags and shocks are held on with just a few fixings Soak all the pins and nuts you can find with WD 40. Ist job is to remove the plastic arch liner ofyour first wheel, not difficult, try not to break the fixings. You will need a strong pair of pliers or grips to remove the clips. WD40 is essential. A trip to Halfords for a basic metric socket set is worthwhile. A few rags to clean things up. A good pair of leather workgloves to protect your knuckles plus some latex gloves to keep your nails good on the fiddly bits. Get a bottle of washing up liquid from the kitchen and mix it up 50/50 with water in a kitchen spray trigger pump. Start the engine and lift the bonnet you should hear the compressor rattling away inside the passenger side wing. Close the bonnet and doors,set the body to high and the body may lift up if your last post is right. Spray the liquid onto the bags and pipes and look for bubbles. Make a note of the places you find leaks. Jack up no 1 wheel and securely block the chassis and transfer your jack to support the axle, drop the suspension to access and let the air out of the bag (Quick solution, wear eye protection goggles, and slash a sharp stanley knife through the bag or cut off the hose next to where it goes into the bag, crude but effective.) Lower the axle on the jack and take things apart. Expect to take a couple of hours on the first corner, the next one will be quicker. By the sound of your last post the pump is not toasted yet. Buy a set of shocks at the same time as the bags fitting them is no big deal either, confidence is your best tool. Get some new clips then you can be brutal with the old rust ones. When you have finished, Ebay a second hand compressor when you get it buy the bits to recondition it. The compressor is easy to strip,a couple of hours on the kitchen table will see your compressor ready to go when the original gives up. You will need a set of Allen keys. The pump is fitted with a plastic piston ring, this is usually worn out, if it has gone too far the cylinder will be scored. A new cylinder, ring and O rings can be bought from P38 spares also on Ebay. A set of bags, clips, shocks, a suspension reset jogger and the odd tools will not cost anything like the dealer price for doing the basic work. A P38 has always cost a fortune to maintain at the main dealers but you do not need to pay list price for the bits. Keep the car going by sourcing from Ebay and /or using your local garage to do the dirty work.
  13. Thanks Steve for your input, as there is no change in noise when cornering I think the wheel bearings are OK, I will jack them up and check for rock to be sure. I guess the last MOT should have shown this up as they have a moving plate which adds side force on the axles to show up any wear in the bearings and swivels and bushes. My standby spare dif was built up by a specialist UK reconditioner, new bearings, CW & P, seals etc. It is a 4 pin unit so it will be stronger.
  14. Hi, my P38 is now fitted with a new RPi Coscast 4.6 engine which replaced the dead 4.0L after I bought it as a re-engine project . It is fitted with Tornado chips and performs well. Previous owner used to tow a caravan using a badly fitted multipoint LPG conversion which is probably the reason the block cracked. Gas system has now been binned. The engine is mated to the original HP22 gearbox. RPi who did the work assured me that in their experience this gearbox is capable of running with the bigger lump. I am getting a light whine from somewhere in the transmission which can only be heard at motorway speeds, there is no transmission slap or clunk. Gearbox ATF has been changed. There is a small fluid dripfrom the gearbox at the front probably because it was over filled when I got the car. I have bought a 4pin rear dif (rebuild)ready to fit assuming the whine is coming from the back axle. Before I decide to change the dif can anyone tell me if the whine might be from a wheel bearing the gearbox or propshaft? With a new crown wheel and pinion, the new dif might be just as noisy until it beds in so I may not know if I have cured the problem. When does a slightly irritating dif whine become worthy of a dif change, do I keep using it till it gets significantly noisy?
  15. I have just spotted this motor on Ebay Classic Car listing No 200409834556, currently £3900. Anybody looking for a 2 door classic?
  16. Hi, Im retired and live in Cyprus. So all summer I run my S1 hybrid with no top or doors and windscreen down. Rear view mirror is not much use under these circumstances except to shine the sun forward into the faces of oncoming drivers. As the S1 round wing mirrors are totally useless, Nelly is fitted with Defender mirrors attached to the windscreen hinges using a little bracket to spread the load.
  17. Reg

    parabolics

    I fitted TI's and Pro Comps to my S1 about 6 years ago before shipping the beast to Cyprus. I have also extended the top shock mounts above the chassis to stop them bottoming, overall the set up is great and rides well on or off road.
  18. Reg

    Springs or Leaf

    My S1 uses S111 running gear, rides on parabolics from TI with HD Shocks. Ride is great for an 86 and going strong after 5 years of Cyprus roads
  19. Hi, could be your wire from the points to the insulator where it exits the dizzy, my motor kept dying for no reason or faltering on acceleration or deceleration. Turned out to be the crimp on the points terminal, it was ok unless the vac advance plate moved then it went open circuit. On restart the engine ran immediately until I eventually tugged on the wire and it fell off.
  20. Ask an Irishman, he will have the instructions on his wellies
  21. If your engine is Hydraulicing the first cylinder to fill will stop the engine, the others will be part full. This is quite a lot of petrol and unless you are cranking for more than 30 seconds I doubt that good injectors would put out that quantity of juice. The volume of the combustion chamber above the piston will have to be completely filled to stop the engine rotating. I would suspect an injector timing problem or open injectors caused by a short hence the sudden failure from go to no go. What about water mixed with petrol?
  22. My 2.25 engined S1 started to play up last week, engine would start and run fine but cut out for several seconds before running again OK. On light throttle engine fired consistently but on acceleration the power would quit and then resume at intervals. Stripped the carb and cleaned it. Checked the points plugs gap etc good spark no issues but no result either. Hot wired the ignition, no improvement. Ordered a new electronic dizzy and coil from ebay. Took a ride out, engine quit and would not restart, success now I had a fault to diagnose. Dizzy cap off jiggled the points, no spark, jiggled some more got a spark from the lead from the points to the coil inside the dizzy. Bingo loose wire at the crimp which was moving as the advance and retard twisted the wire. Pinch with some pointy pliers, job done!! How frustrating can an intermittent fault be. !!
  23. Hi, thanks for the offer, I already have the original bellows and rod assembly plus a spare, the bit Im missing is the connection on the throttle spindle as the non Cruise plemum/throttle body are different only having one attachment to the spindle for the accelerator. Thee cruise model has two attachment points in tandem but swing the spindle independently.
  24. When I bought my P38 it had a dead engine and a multipoint bodge LPG system with holes drilled into the Plenum body. RPi fitted a new 4.6 Cosworth engine in place of the 4.0 which had a cracked block in the usual place. I sourced a second hand plenum from ebay which fitted fine. Unfortunately the throttle body of the replacement came from a non cruise control donor so I lost the linkage needed to connect to the vac servo cable which lies alongside the standard throttle spindle link. RPi binned the old plenum as it was US. I don't run LPG as it is unavailable in Cyprus for road fuel. Please can someone sell me or tell me where I can get the parts to get connected.
  25. My P38 shows a chequebook symbol sometimes after 5 mins. when on cooling, always when on heating. If I leave the cabin on A/C,and the outside temperature is lower than cabin setting (as sometimes happens morning or evening) it shows the symbol, so I deduce it is somewhere in the heating side of the Climate control. I also get blast of cold air both sides of footwell intermittently, so I guess I have problems with the drives to the flaps or the control sensor. I am also getting a 1 second duration sound like a quiet horn hoot from somewhere in the system, happens every 5 to 10 mins, is this a stiff bearing on one of the flaps? I have a Faultmate diagnostics system and a spare Valeo motor assy. but dont want to dig until I know what I'm letting myself in for, especially as the A/C is still functioning. The A/C was recharged and fitted with a new condenser before I shipped the car to Cyprus. Any help would be appreciated.
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