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Reg

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  1. Reg

    p38 mpg

    I run a P38 on a new 4.6 petrol gems with Tornado Chip. On combination town motorway Im getting a regular 18.5 in normal drive mode, top speed 70/75, average journey MPH around 45 (trip 180 miles ). If I reset the puter on the motorway I can get 22Mpg if I try hard not to go over 70.
  2. In the days of Red Robbo, a standard production tool used to set door gaps was a piece of wood. It is used in the door jamb, shut door onto wood, bingo door fits. Known as a Coventry screwdriver!!
  3. My P38 Doing its job PS The trailer axles are widened SIII axles too
  4. Hi, I left my Rangie parked up for about 3 weeks and when I came to start up apart from a slightly lazy battery I got a Gearbox fault pop up on the display. Switched off after a few minutes idle, restarted, no gearbox fault! When I drove round the block it took about 5 minutes for the suspension to get settled with lights blinking on the switch. After that it settled down and all is OK. Was my Rangie just sleepy and needed a stretch, or do I have some underlying problems coming up? B)
  5. Saw this and thought of you
  6. Hi, I know the part you are referring to, it acts as a buffer to stop the safari door from crushing the rear fog lens if the door stay is not engaged. Unfortunately I have just scrapped a complete rust free SIII 88 chassis and Safari body including this part. It got carted away on the 11th, minus its axles and gearbox. It has been getting in the way for 3 years.
  7. Have you done a compression test? could be a burned valve seat or a sticking valve, but the engine would run lumpy if this was the case. Try disconnecting the silencer at the flange next to the gearbox x member, now run the engine (you may have to remove the bolts and replace them with new ones before getting away from the neighbours to do this in a field.) If the silencer is blocking up the engine will run better without the box attached. My SIII engine always gently burbles and pops on the over run, been doing it since I built it 6 years ago.
  8. The spacer block is some kind of composition material, came standard on the ex army lump. The space above the carb flange is about 3". I am thinking of fitting a "power bulge in the bonnet by cutting out a rectangular piece, topped with a 3" high ally box to give me some space, this will screw up my bonnet spare wheel though.
  9. I've been having the same problem with my Hybrid with a remote servo after a wheel cylinder let go ruining my shoes. I then bled the system for ever and gave up. Took Nelly for a ride round the block crash stop,solid pedal, four black stripes and no pulling. So try running the engine to to set the servo vacuum, then give it a try. Mine has the bigger LWB brakes and on the front twin cylinders and bleeder on lower cylinder which makes the "bleeding" problem worse. I also made the mistake of not setting the master cylinder clearance right when I built the beast, interesting effect, pedal got harder and harder and eventually locked the wheels up as the fluid couldn't return to the reservoir. Could be a novel way of bleeding brakes single handed!
  10. Can anybody suggest a way of fitting an aircleaner to my SI which has a 2.25 SIII engine, zenith carb and spacer block. This setup leaves insufficient room to clear the bonnet using a standard aircleaner elbow. I already get vapour locking in the summer so I dont think I can dispense with the spacer . I have run a rubber and oiled foam pancake for several years but it has started to fall apart so I'm looking for a better solution.
  11. Hi, My SI hybrid has been running a SIII engine for several years, but because the engine sits high in the bay, I couldn't fit the standard oil bath filter arrangement as the zenith carb elbow fouled the bonnet. I have used a K&N type foam filter jubileed onto the carb, but this is starting to fall apart and needs replacing. Has anybody got a solution to this problem, apart from cutting a hole in the bonnet?
  12. I've fitted Fiat Panda seats, they need a little modding but they are small and give a comfortable ride. Mine were re-covered in vinyl.
  13. Hi, Have you checked your ignition switched lead from the dash to the coil? An intermittent fault could stop the ignition long enough to let unburned petrol into the silencer which will backfire from hot carbon or a return of the ignition power. The carburettor bowl may be letting excess fuel past the gasket when it gets warm, check the body is not warped. The RAF landrover reminded me that you can do it even better with a 3 tonner going down hill, I remember two poodles on leads going vertical! The REME were p****d offf when I returned with a blown silencer sounding like a Centurion Tank. Must have been a missfire corporal
  14. The electric seats are coupled with the mirrors to enable each key 1 or 2 to select the memorised seat and mirror positions for different drivers. This is controlled by the BECM and should operate the mirror switching position only when the relevent key is placed in the ignition. There is a seat memory button which records the selected positions. Quote from the handbook " To recall your stored position after the seat or mirrors have been moved by another driver, press the appropriate switch (1 or 2); the seat and mirrors will return to the position stored by the memory. Once they have reached their memory positions a tone will sound to confirm the operation is complete". If you are pushing the wrong buttons the above result will happen. Seat adjustment is only possible with the starter switch turned to pos 1 or 11 or with the door open with the starter switch at pos 0. Try this first before suspecting crossed wires. Good luck Reg
  15. Has anybody tried creating a Heath Robinson DIY vacuum pump for brake bleeding, I have been thinking about how it could be done: Connect engine vacuum from inlet manifold to a container with a shut off valve, add maybe a S111 vac reservoir. Use a vac pump such as a RR cruise control pump, reservoir etc. Use diesel engine vac pump coupled to a small electric motor. Use a Series alternator and vac and drive it off a motor using the existing pulley. I know you con buy hand Vac pump kits and some fancy industrial units but Im thinking of using bits out of the "box in the shed" kind of things.
  16. If you are stripping down a brake drum from a "rust heap" try the following when all else fails: Back off brake adjusters, it is worth soaking these with WD40 so you can feel them move away from the back of the shoes. Stamp on the brake pedal several times (assuming you have some fluid in the system) this will centralise the shoes. Use a pry bar or heavy screwdriver between the backplate and the drum to move the drum whilst hitting the drum with a rubber or copper mallet. A lump hammer could bust the casting. If it is still stuck move to phase 2. Refit wheel with three nuts, retaining screws omitted. Leave jacked up. Remove outer wheel bearing by removing split pin, nuts etc. Now you have a big heavy wheel to jerk and wobble. Loosen the wheel nuts if necessary, this will act as a slide hammer. The Hub should slide off with the brake drum and wheel attached, your inner wheel bearing should stay in, but dont do this next to a drain in case it rolls away complete with seal. The inner seal will now probably be damaged but it will probably be dead anyway. Wash bearings in solvent and clean out the bits of rust now packed into the spaces. I find the best solution to the above problem is to make up a complete brake assembly on a spare back plate, in a nice warm workshop, paint it all over fit new cylinder(s) and test asemble shoes and springs, then unbolt the rusty old backplate and fit the reconditioned one.
  17. hi Chris, before you write off the key fob completely, clean the contacts and prise them up a bit. I had written mine off before doing this.
  18. Hi, Try http://www.rangerovers.net Your BECM will be setting the alarm after it has been manually locked. Sounds like you have stopped using the fob unit. I thought mine was dead but resurected with new batteries and button covers, see Rangerover P38 listing on Ebay. Quote below: Unsolicited Locking and Unlocking by Remote I have found that the remote can sometimes easily be trigered in my pocket just by touching or bumping it. TSBartel reports a similar issue: "My 2000 Range Rover 4.0 had a tendency to repeatedly lock and unlock the doors while driving and occasionally while parked. This problem has happened twice since I've owned the car. The service personnel swear the issue is not the key fobs, but each time I've replaced the batteries and button keys (both very inexpensive) the problem has stopped within a couple of days and stayed corrected for a couple of years. Try this before going on to other, more expensive approaches. The batteries and rubber buttons should be replaced every few (3?) years anyway. Change the batteries and buttons at the dealership, you may need to reset the code on the fob - which is quite simple."
  19. Hi, I have fitted the above Harmon Cardon Ipod Dock which takes over the functions of the Ipod "Jogger/clicker" and uses it's own display and controller. I uses the aux connections or the FM radio which can be tuned to a quiet spot on the dial. Advantage is the Ipod sits in the glove box, it powers up when you start up, remembers the last track played, displays the track details on the screen. It also charges the ipod when it is plugged in. There is one on Ebay now currently £21 unused boxed. I paid about £45 for mine.
  20. Hi, if you need a special propshaft my solution for a S1 hybrid was to modify a Disco rear shaft. Ist lay shaft on a flat surface , inside the Vee of a piece of angle iron. Scribe a line down the shaft guided by the angle near the end you are going to cut off. Centre punch the UJ and the line in several places to retain allignment later. Grind off weld joining UJ to shaft close to UJ, break the pieces apart carefully and clean up the UJ stub. Using a large tube cutter cut a light groove around the point you wish to cut off the excess tube. If in doubt leave some extra for a second go. If you dont have a tube cutter wrap a piece of A4 paper round the shaft several times and pencil mark the edge which will give you 90degree cut line . Carefully hacksaw off (otherwise using a tube cutter you will get a lip pressed onto the inner edge of the tube) . Push the stub back into the tube aligning the centre punch marks and offer it up to the axle/tranfer box with the chassis chocked, axle hanging and check your slide shaft will cover full articulation. When you are satisfied re-check allignment and tack weld 4 the joint at 12 6 9 and 3 oclock. Then finish weld. If you are stick welding, weld small sections at a time and chip/grind the slag before restarting. Tidy up your welds if necessary but dont grind flush!! I started using this method after making up lorry pump drives as they usually came new with one end unfitted.
  21. Hi Greg, your problem is probably being caused by Radio interference from remote door bells and other car remotes unless you live in the back of beyond. The computer is woken up every time it senses an RF signal, it discards it as not for it and waits for a set time before going to sleep. Over and over again, this will flatten the battery as the computer uses a lot more power when not sleeping. Result dead battery in days. Alarm receiver is in RH load space area, you could remove it's aerial lead so it isnt so sensitive, it will still work from very close up. See http://www.rangerovers.net/newremedies.htm#remedies Second possibility is central locking fault, usually a sticking switch particularly the tailgate when salty water can get in during the winter. This makes the computer go into relock mode, it will unlock the doors and relock until it is successful, sometimes repeating ad infinitum. Result dead battery. If the interior light stays on it may indicate a door switch or its wiring is duff check each in turn with the bulb in, simple stuff but it creates problems with the ECU. MY P38 has suffered both problems, WD 40 on the tailgate push cured relocking issue. You can miss the clicking if you arm the alarm whilst walking away.
  22. Hi Greg, your problem is probably being caused by Radio interference from remote door bells and other car remotes unless you live in the back of beyond. The computer is woken up every time it senses an RF signal, it discards it as not for it and waits for a set time before going to sleep. Over and over again, this will flatten the battery as the computer uses a lot more power when not sleeping. Result dead battery in days. Alarm receiver is in RH load space area, you could remove it's aerial lead so it isnt so sensitive, it will still work from very close up. See http://www.rangerovers.net/newremedies.htm#remedies Second possibility is central locking fault, usually a sticking switch particularly the tailgate when salty water can get in during the winter. This makes the computer go into relock mode, it will unlock the doors and relock until it is successful, sometimes repeating ad infinitum. Result dead battery. If the interior light stays on it may indicate a door switch or its wiring is duff check each in turn with the bulb in, simple stuff but it creates problems with the ECU. MY P38 has suffered both problems, WD 40 on the tailgate push cured relocking issue. You can miss the clicking if you arm the alarm whilst walking away.
  23. Hi David, I have a reasonable compressor in the box at the moment and after fitting some new isolating feet I have to be sitting at the lights to hear it. Maybe the racket from this before I fixed it made me aware of how often the pump kicks in. I have already built up a spare compressor with a new piston ring so that is also covered, but it would be nice for the air tank to be topped up so ithe main compressor doesnt run as soon as the ride height is raised when I stop. I understand that because the pressure flow and return to the tank uses the same line the pump senses a pressure drop before the tank pressure equalises with the line sensor. The air bags look OK at the moment and it stays up on all corners over several days. I've washed out the inlet filter in white spirit with a little engine oil added as it is only a little foam filter which pops out of it's housing. As I live in Cyprus the P38 spares situation is not so good as UK, so I'm gradually building up a set of spares starting with a spare rebuilt 4 pin dif, pollen filters, Heater flap motor etc. When the air bags do start to go I shall use Arnott units as the roads here are very variable and potholes freqent! Shocks are already uprated to Konis. Regards Reg
  24. Hi, Has anybody fitted a supplementary air compressor to the P38? I am thinking of fitting a second compressor in the boot tyre well feeding directly into the air tank and controlled by its own pressure switch. This would cut down the pump cycling on the existing compressor and extend its life. Arnott Ind also supply a range of aftermarket compressors, valve blocks tanks etc plus full kits to do what the RR box does sometimes but without the computer, just a small switch selector panel. Coupled with a set of gen 111 Arnott airsprings I think that this would replace the whole BECM and box of tricks at a fraction of the price of the RR parts.
  25. Hi, my computer will show me 22 to 24 mpg motorway cruising at 70mph, new engine Tornado chip.
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