silvio

Here some photos to describe the job (the text is italian, I'm sorry): http://www.ilmiodefender.altervista.org/botola_pompa.htm These are the dimensions of the hole for a 110": http://www.ilmiodefender.altervista.org/botola110.pdf and these are for a 90": http://www.ilmiodefender.altervista.org/botola90.pdf Hope this may help!

Hello EdF, I replaced just the 2 Orings of the fuel pressure regulator, and it worked for me, the leak has been solved; basically, you need to remove the regulator block and extract the regulating valve, which is held by a seeger ring. When the valve is out, you replace the 2 orings: pay attention, you MUST buy Viton Orings (Viton is a special rubber, much more resistant to oil and temperature than the standard one). The codes for the orings are as follows: 3081 the larger one, 3021 the smaller one. Honest price should be 2 euros each... Hope this helps.

...or (provided we are talking about a Td5) you have a fault code logged in your ECU, a fault related with the cooling system (e.g. a wrong data from the coolant temp sensor). In this case you must reset the fault code, with an appropriate diagnostic tool (nanocom, rovacom, T4 and the like...).

You could do better than replace the whole assembly (pump + float arm and fuel sender + big plastic box): you could open the plastic box and replace only the pump unit, which has a VDO-Siemens code as follows: A2C59511614, and is the same irrespective whether it is for a 90, a 110 or a disco II. This allows to save a good amount of money: the pump unit price is here in Italy 160 euros, while the price of the complete assembly ranges from 350 to 400 and more (it depends on the place you buy it, whether from a dealer or from other sources).

...which thing does not speak well about the way that gearbox has been serviced in the past

2004 is the last edition: positively I've got the italian 2004 edition, which expires on july 2004. The opening screen says (or should I say "reads"...) that it's the last edition, and from then on all the techstuff will only be available on line, both for dealers and general public. I'd love to crack this 2004 rave, without having to reset the pc clock...

I think that antifreeze is also anti-boil, in the sense that it increases the boiling point of water: so having a good, rich mixture is helpful even in hot climates. And of course there's the anticorrosion protection, necessary in engines with aluminium parts. So the ideal percentage antifreeze/water should range from 33% to 50%, IMHO.

You beat me, Jim: only 22°C here in Rome, with a shining sun! Last sunday Ludovica (my 9-y.o. daughter) had a short bath in a lake some 20 km north of Rome, at 6pm!!! Not bad, but not uncommon: we name the period of the year between end of october and beginning of november "estate di S. Martino", St. Martin's summer literally, but indian summer in US usage, I guess.

From what you say, it doesn't seem to be related to this known issue: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=30857 You say the noise appears when engine is hot, and doesn't seem to be engine-loated; however, a check might be appropriate. But of course the cause must be investigated and sorted under warranty, you paid for it!

...and which would be the best place to measure the boost, Jim? In a Td5, with the nanocom you get the reading from the sensor on the inlet manifold, so you get the actual pressure jut before air enters the cyilinders. Would this be the best place in general, so in a 300tdi should one plumb the pick-up hose in the intake manifold as well?

Found the codes for the orings: the small one is 3021, the large one is 3081

Yes, fuel regulator is suspect n. 1! However, sometimes, you can cure the leak simply removing the "cartridge" (part. n. 10 in the attached scheme) from the block and replacing the two Orings (nn. 8 and 11). LR doesn't supply these Orings, and requires in any case the replacemente of the complete regulator block, which is most of the times overkill (and overexpensive...) but you can find them in any shop that deals with hydraulics, machinery in general. Later I can also give you a code number for these two Orings., haven't got it at hand right now. Remember to ask for Orings made from Viton, far more stable to heat and fuel. Obviously, you'll need a new gasket (regulator to head, n. 1) as the block must be removed from the head in order to replace the Orings

Thank you, Peter! Yes, it makes perfectly sense! And probably this use is just the reason LR made the shaft with the allen key hole. We'll give it a go this way!

Yes, it looks like it is possible .... But then, is it really possible? Any tip or trick from someone who managed to do the job?