Cat_J

After some thinking I too feel the new alternator is faulty and the whole cascade failure could have been caused by the voltage supply dropping below threshold. I used a local garage, a good one who I know I can trust. I forgot to ask the brand but he says he feels they are normally very reliable, it came at a cost close to OEM and doesn't appear to be a budget part. Hes also used them in D3s before with no issue. Testing the alternator output will be his first move once its in. Fingers crossed. I am now aware of about a dozen more ways the D3 can fail in this manner though after doing some googling. Its not too reassuring knowing the whole system can suffer cascade style failures from things like a brake light switch.

Hi Guys, I have an issue with my D3, it started back when the battery light started coming on, the battery passed all tests so I had the alternator changed, then 10 days later it started up all over again. At this point I felt it must be the battery as it was old anyway and now the indicator was displaying 'replace', which I did. However a couple of days later, today, while driving home I got every warning bing and bong under the sun, suspension, brakes, airbags, park brake, land rover spider AWOL etc etc. The full D3 christmas tree. It then cut out on the side of the road just as I managed to pull into a village. If it was my defender I'm sure I'd have it fixed by now, however I loath the thought of working on the D3, everything has nasty plastic everywhere and its just no fun. My instinct is shouting wiring issue, actually it was the feeling I had from the start due to the intermittent way it started, but I would think that as I spend my life building wiring harnesses anyway. Does anyone have any personal experience of this fault? I'm having it picked up and it would be great if I could point the guy in the right direction. Thanks

Ah I should have noticed that. Got a few econoseals about but not a 4 way so I'll order one now, thanks.

Done some work today: Do you guys know what connector this uses? Its the 4 pin connector for a v8 fuel pump, standard pump from RR/Disco I'm told: Thanks

And it makes the injector wiring very simple

Yeah the bullet one is for the dash. Have made the legs up for the other sensors (ones in the photos) just need to find something that connects onto the dash one. Should be going up to see it tomorrow so will try some random bullet connectors Oh Btw, you seem to know your V8s, do you happen to know which injectors are which. I know its 2,4,6,8 and 1,3,7,9 but would like to number label each leg. Can't seem to find a diagram for this. Thanks Edit: found this, is it right?

Does anyone know the connector to git this water sensor? It looks like a bullet connection but not quite the same shape. Got most the leads made up just a couple of boots to change and I can start putting it together over the weekend. Thanks

Also when I went back there to find the last unlisted wires, the last 2, which went to the dash, due to their length and location I think must be alternator, this makes sense to me as they must provide the battery light function. Its not the original alternator thats fitted now, but i'll obviosuly be reconnecting this. Are these simply a +ve and -ve connection for a voltage read or is there more to it? This is the back of the new alternator: Would anybody happen to be able to identify each connection? Sorry for all the questions but I'm really getting into this. I'd like to know everything I can in the hope that this will lead to future projects. Thanks

OK that would make sense. I'm pretty sure the donor vehicle had A/C (1997 Disco). As its all a mismash at the moment he was taking the heater out of a TD5 and not bothering with A/C, then I suggested looking to a eberspacher or something similar so could be anything happening there now, but I'm sure there won;t be A/C.

I thought it was another temperature sensor just not sure what the one of the front is then. When I said by the pump I meant this: And I thought this was the oil pressure, down lower on the side of the block:

Also can somebody tell me what this is, having trouble find it on microcat. I know the JT connector next to it is the ECUs coolant temp sens, so that I'm not sure about, the wire seems to go to the dash and there is already another temp sens by the pump that goes there.

OK thank I'm going to contact them and see whats what. Can anyone tell me where to locate the purge valve, its the one thing I couldn't find. I think I understand what it does, feeds excess gas back into the engine, but I don't know where it is.

OK thanks I've forwarded the ebay link to him so he can buy it if the original can;t be found. What kind of modifications if any would be required for the RPI kit, I'm just interested now. Does it make a noticeable difference?

Thanks. I guess this is what you were talking about: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-1-3-5-3-9V8-3-PIN-IGNITION-MODULE-/280702951660?hash=item415b3320ec:m:mcgJJKKSAaziWW4NnNExgOQ I also found this: http://www.v8engines.com/faq-a-and-r.htm Would that be worth looking into?

Well after a busy period at work I've finally got the circuitry done, had a couple of wires that I couldn't identify so ended up taking the old harness back to the engine and laying it back on to find where they go. These were wires going to the dash connector which I have no info for. I found 2 of them are sensors, one oil and another a 2nd water sensor. It looks like there is one coolant temp sensor going to the ECU, this is located by the fuel temp sensor, and another at the front near the pump going to the dash. I also found out what the extra lead I had was for. It connects the disty to the ignition amp. I know for all you petrol heads out there this will be obvious but if I'm honest I've been a diesel person all my life and this is the first petrol engine I've worked on, so its a learning curve for me. However the amp itself is nowhere to be seen, there is a 2 way Econoseal plug on the disty, the other end of the lead has a 3 way Econoseal plug which must connect to the amp. The lead is a screened paired where the 2 wires go into the 2 way on one end, and the same wires go into pins 1 & 3 on the 3 way at the other end, pin 2 is attached to the screen (drain.) Does anybody have a link to the amp, he's going to need it and if there isn't one there now I'm assuming it was lost with the old coil.

Damn it I knew someone was going to say that. He wants a stock setup, and the chip is replaceable to improve the top end performance. Really doesn't want anything to tweak and play about with, just get it going right and leave it.

So after a delay and some final changes this is no longer going with 4cu, it'll be run on 14cux as that is what originally came with the engine, and from the looks of it is a nicer system. The 14cux posed a problem with gettign a ECU connector, as nobody seems to have them. Fortunately I now have an original engine harness (with a few random modifications as per) and the connector is easy to depopulate. I'm about 75% of the way through writing up the circuitry for this now, so should have that done tomorrow and have the connector off. Surprisingly almost all of the wire colours match the diagram too. So now I'm hoping what was a rather stalled start will now pick up quickly. One thing that would be useful, I'm struggling to find is a pinout for the dashboard connector. This would be really handy as the dash will be updated anyway. I believe this is the connector: I have also made an extract tool for the fusebox terminals (lucky GF leaves many hair clips all over the floor ) and managed to source the blade fuse terminals. Also have good information that a local auto electrical shop have the others so should be fine there. Looking forward to it all now, hopefully something will come together over the weekend.

Thanks n4s. Who did you use to have them reconditioned?

Does anybody know the correct injector part number for the 3.9 efi v8,from a 1997 disco. The guy is happy to replace them for peace of mind and I'm not sure how to identify the current ones anyway.

Thanks for all that Paul, that's very helpful. I'm going to have a go at extracting one tomorrow so I can come compare. If I get stuck i'll try to contact them for advice.

I can see on the metal plate it says Leoni with a part number. 580300144 A CH12-14A301-AA Trying to navigate their awful corporate website now.

I have decided to start a new thread as the last one was off the back of some wrong information. I'm building a full loom from scratch for a friend so I'll use this thread if I get stuck anywhere. I'll also post up some progress pictures in case its of any help to anyone in the future. The defender is a custom build from the ground up, starting on a Richard's Chassis and parts being bought as needed. Theres been a few changes along the way, was originally a 300Tdi I think, then a TD5 and has now settled on a V8 auto (after moving the chassis mounts again.) I'll post some pictures with the owners permission. It turned out to be half the cost to buy a brand new tdci bulkhead and have it galved rather than an original one, they will be using a tdci seatbox I believe but to be honest they know much more about what body work fits together than me. The tank has been moved to the rear so the wiring can go under the driver. I have a tdci fusebox which I'm going to build out of. ECU will also be located under the driver. The first thing I'm going to do is strip the fusebox, I want to use a higher quality wire from end to end. To this end I need to source the terminals for the blade fuses. I think they are the same as these Female Terminal. If someone could confirm this that would be great. This is the fuse box and terminal: If this is right then it looks like I'm going to need to make a tool to extract them. Its quite hard to see from the front or rear exactly how they are located. After speaking to ATP who recondition the ECUs of these vehicles this appears to be the correct ECU connector diagram for this model. ECU (Thanks for the link ralph) This ECU has been confirmed by various sources to also work with the 3.9 V8. I also need to find the terminal for the square fuses and the relays. As these are simple enough to extract though I'll see if work can help me there. Square Fuse: Relay Socket: I have higher resolution pictures of everything but didn't want to make a mess in the forum. I'm just waiting on all the relays/coil/ballast/ignition switch to get started on the circuity. Current goal is to get her running and moving so it can go away to have body work done and be moved around the workshop. All other electrics will be done on its return. Current thinking is to use a tdci dash but gut the gauges and replace the internals with td5 ones. Its gonna be fun on a bun!

No its not, sorry for the confusion. Maybe I should start a new thread. Thanks for that, it confirms we have the right ECU (or at least the original ECU) I just can't seem to find a pinout for it. I phoned ATP when I got home but missed the person I need to speak to so will ring again tomorrow, hopefully they will have that information.

Yeah looks like same plug to me too. HFH, I'm not entirely sure I'm going on what I'm told and what I can find on Google. Do you know that the above ecu is correct for the engine posted? Thanks

Hi guys, Sorry to do this again. So the part above is the ABS ECU apparently, with the help of his land rover guy my friend has managed to pull out his actual EMS ECU. So here it is: This makes much more sense as I can find a pinout for it (I think but the years don't seem to add up): Could somebody who's brain isn't fried with stress confirm I have the correct information here? Also The connector looks like the same fitting but if that could be confirmed too it would be much appreciated. Engine is a 1997 3946cc 3.9efi