Cat_J
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Posts posted by Cat_J
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Roll cage was added to my project list for this reason. Not good.
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I'll keep the old ones and refurn them later. Its something I can mess around with when I have time, at the moment I'm working 10-12 hours a day so don't get a lot of time to work on the landy. I'd rather just buy new calipers at the moment. Anyway, have ordered the goodens.
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Cool I'll order the Lockheed then. Cheers
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Thanks for the fast reply Ralph. Will do retro.
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Went to go finish off the brakes today to find the old calpiers looking somewhat worse for ware. After replacing everything else I though I might as well this them to. I've been getting most my parts from LRDirect recently, and they've been very good. They have the option between (excluding the usual junk and super expensive genuine) the choice between Allmakes and Lockheed, at a huge price difference. So far I have been buying mostly Almakes stuff and found it to be as good as OEM quality but as this is brakes I wanted to know which you would reccomend? Will the allmakes calpiers be as good as the rest of their stuff I have had or am I better going for the Lockheed?
BTW haven't been on the forum for a while and it looks great, very snazzy.
Cheers
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I used fatmat which came from ebay, I can not tell you how good it is as I have not finished my rebuild yet.
Easy to cut and fit and it realy sticks.
Regards
Frax
Hi Frax,
PITA question I'm sure but I'm rebuilding too and have pretty much the same setup. Terrafirma shocks etc. Could you by any chance tell me the size of the nuts on the shocks. The parts cat says they should be 1/2 UNF as standard but they are not so I assume terrafirm used something else. I've lost 2 of mine.
Cheers
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I'm going to rudely slide in and do a bit of a thread hijack if thats OK. I have exactly the same problem at the moment. Except I have done it wrong on purpose.
I have bought 2 sets of rear springs as advised by Gywn Lewis as I intend to fit a winch to my build, so the wight of the winch and bumper should level it out. It is currently in the stage of a chassis with an engine and gear box in (put them in to try to weigh it down) and basic suspension. No shocks in yet becuase the angle of the spring mounts means I can't bolt them down. This is due to the extra length of the rear springs on the front.
TBH I've had enough of messing around with it trying to get it to work, its not going to as far as I can tell. Not untill the full weight of everything is on it at least. What I want to know is was Gwym right in saying I need the HD springs at the front for a winch or will the extra weight not be that considerable and standard front springs will be enough?
I'm just going to buy some normal springs to go on the front so I can build it up.
Cheers
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Hi,
Well I've been having fun and games. After many trips to the barn and back (can only go once a week at the moment if I'm lucky) I've slowly been building a rolling chassis. All was going well, rear axle, radius arms and supports all went in fine. Unfortunately the front axle is a different story. I put the shocks and springs together thinking i'll just pop the radius arms on afterwards (using polybushes). There is no engine or gearbox in this chassis BTW. Turns out after lots of anger and pulling about the radius arm will not go through the bush as the chassis end while attached to the axle.
'Fair enough' I thought. I'll do it the other way round, try to attach it to the chassis THEN the axle. Even worse. Turns out with the springs and shocks mounted you just cant get the angle to get all the holes lined up, jack trickery doesn't work as the chassis is to light (lol) and just lifts up. After ejecting the ratchet to the other end of the barn I finally came to the conclusion that I have to do the radius arms first. So off come the shocks, mounts, springs, retainers, and dislocation cones and I get the radius arms on with ease.
So, back on with the shocks, mounts, springs, retainers, and dislocation cones. Then '!@%$#%@ !@%@ %#$@' nothing lines up. Springs are stuck sticking forward if bolted down to the axle. So, I think, due to the tension in the new bushes and lack of weight, the chassis is sitting too high, radius arm angle is too wide, and therefore the axle is angled forward.
My Plan
Its basically all in. I have the springs in the dislocation cones. But the axle is still sitting forward, so I have only put one bolt through the spring retainers and seats at the bottom to allow there to be a gap at the front and keep the springs vertical. My [in]sane idea is to lower the engine and gearbox back onto the chassis, in thoery the weight will push the chassis down, correct the radius arms angle, rolling the axle level to I can finish the front suspension.
How mad am I?
Also it might be useful to know the front springs are the standard rear springs. That is they are both HD rear springs front and back. This was recommended my Gwyn Lewis as I am mounting a front winch.
So yeah. Any thoughts or just a plain 'you're mad you were supposed to do it like this' would be appreciated as at the moment I'm just wasting the little time I actually get to do it.
Cheers. Sorry its a bit of a long one.
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I'm glad this came up. I also need them. Theres galvanised ones on LRSeries
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S'ok for you oldies. I have to do a trailer test before I can put more than 750kgs on the back of mine. I think I would have a hard time to justify it. Although at least I know that whatever I'm doing i'll be in the wrong
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I only half agree with that. Certainly the current crop of hybrids are pretty hard to justify - but - plug in hybrids have a lot to offer. You don't really need a huge range on electric - for myself, a range of 15 miles covers 80% of my vehicle usage. Even with a Td5 for the other 20%, I still get a combined figure of over 200mpg cost equivalence and about 90g combined CO2 per km including battery manufacture and transmission losses.
It has persuaded me that a better option than an Electric Freelander and a Td5 Defender might be a plug-in hybrid RR (for slightly better drag coefficient than my brick). I'll build that as soon as a nice RR/RRS comes my way!
Things like a Prius are still at the Model T Ford stage in the development of the technology - but they will get there!
My point is - don't throw the baby out with the bathwater!
Si
You're right. TBH I didn't consider them before posting, I was more referring to the Prius which people get up on their high horse about because they seem to be under the illusion that what they've bought will have a positive effect on the environment.
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Hmm, these people clearly aren't as clever as they think they are. Hybrid cars good for the environment, yeah right. Probably one of the worst polluting things you can make in terms of cost to the environment to produce. I imagine the depth of their research before putting on a colourful jumper and causing criminal damage was watching a toyota advert. Its these kind of morons who actually damage positive environmental causes.
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Gazelle, can you point me in the direction of that ground for representation please. I can't seem to find it.
Thanks
http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/lez/17703.aspx#tkt-tab-panel-2
Check this out. Thats all recovery and bus companies either choosing not to operate in the LEZ or going bust. Fire engines are charged £200 a day (what the f**k). Snow ploughs, Gritters, Refuse collection vehicles, Road sweepers £200 a day, so thats basicly a redirection of more tax money into the bankers pockets. Concrete mixers £200 a day, building companies gone then. Removals lorries £200 a day, to stop you escaping. And so forth.
http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/lez/17701.aspx#tkt-tab-panel-6
This can only hurt us. Just like everything our government do. I wish the banks had just collapsed.
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Damn straight. Mine will have a very large chain round the chassis and the main support of a barn. Any noisy attempt to take it will be met by 4 dogs who don't trust strangers. And lets face it, driving off a defender is never quiet.
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You are supposed to ensure the new owner's full information is entered on the V5 before you sign it over. This protects you from their failure to register their ownership and also ensures that the vehicle always has a registered owner. Checking the buyer's ID is not in any way an invasion of privacy.
People who oppose such checks of their information, like the hysteria over the planned ID cards, are either dilusionally self-important (what the hell would anyone, including the authorities, care about you and what you are doing as long as it's legal?) or have something to hide. I won't deal with anyone who wants to hide their details from me. That's not the same as the morons who share all their personal details on the internet and then wonder why their bank account and house are empty - there is a difference between paranoid secrecy over relevant details and foolish self-broadcasting of unnecessary information.
I think you acted wisely. Your post could be interpreted as racial, but only by those who tend to seek prejudice in everything. Glad to see you didn't get done - it would be worth reporting the details to ebay and perhaps to the police fraud squad.
Totally agree too. If it was my car you can show me some ID and buy the car, or don't bother turning up. I don't care if you're paranoid, my gaff my rules. Don't like them? Go away and buy someone else's car.
I'd rather protect myself than risk it because somebody else doesn't want to trust me with their name (which if they are genuine I will almost certainly have through ebay anyway, duh.)
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Discriminate away i say!
That wouldn't be very PC now would it
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but all of the UK is built on the "f*** it, that'll do" attitude. How can we hope to succeed as a nation if we loose our core work ethic ? Do you mean we should take pride and do things correctly and professionally.
But then you're discriminating against the people who do things wrong
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I guess its more of a pain on the 110. I took the roof off my 90 myself, just cut the front seal removed the bolts and walked off the back with it on my shoulders. 110 would just be too long to balance like that I guess, not tried it yet
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I would agree with the PAS box. The thing is a pain to change in your garage, forget doing it in a sand storm. Also you would have to carry all the fluids to change the box too. And what if you find the ball joint is cacked too. Plus it has to weigh at least 15kgs.
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I think insulation and fine car carpet looks nicer, and it doesn't sag. Take the roof off and its nice and easy to make it neat.
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Cheers Ralph
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Ok, cheers. Will NTC9068 fit my vehicle? I already have the type C wheel 48 spline so may as well get the column to suit if I can.
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Right, firstly I would like to state that I hate this 36 or 48 spline rubbish. But thats Land Rover
Anyway, I would like to replace my steering column as part of my rebuild. All the rest of the steering has been replaced so this will finish the job. I want to replace it with a 48 spline one. Thats what all the new ones are using. I also have a Puma 48 spline wheel so thats the way I wanna go.
I have a 36 at the moment in my 1991 200tdi 90. What column do I need to replace it with a 48.
I think I need a NTC9068
But have also found a NRC7635 but have no idea what it is?
Can someone shed some light on this confusing subject please.
Cheers
Adhesive residue removal
in International Forum
Posted
Another shout for MEK here as I use it at work too. Just don't breath in ANY of it, bad stuff. I used Autoglym Tar remover when I did mine which did the job with no bad effect on the paint. Also you don't have to worry about it melting your hands or destroying your brain too much.