Cat_J
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Posts posted by Cat_J
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Hi,
How much groin ache would I have to go through to fit a rear fuel tank into my 200TDi? The chassis is new from marslands with a TD5 rear cross member. Has anyone got a diagram of how it is mounted so I can figure out if I have the right holes.
It would be nice to fit a later seatbox with a storage area in the drivers side.
Cheers
Jethro
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In Dec 2010 Adrian Flux told me they could no longer insure my 12 seater CSW, i got a quote of £350 off co-op, at beginning of jan 2011 flux phoned me asking if i had found insurance, as they had found a insurer that would cover the 110 CSW, and they could do the price at £250.00, as it was still within the 14 cooling off period i went back to flux,
I am covered on fully comp with business insurance for £250 which i am more than happy with.
Good thing too. In the event of someone driving into the side of you when you are stationary the co-op will tell you its your fault for being in a car then put you on hold while they rewrite the conditions of your policy. They are total c**ts.
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The way I remember it there are 3 holes in the bottom of the snorkel. These go into the wing, best to use rivnuts all round for easiest results. If you haven't go one a rivnut gun is pretty cheap and very useful. These holes have to be drilled into the wing (i'm pretty sure.)
As for sealing it... well. The foam seal is the least of your worries and silicone will probably do the job better but I found LRs awful wing air intake design on the 200tdi a bigger problem. Sealing that thing up is not far short of complete luck. During my rebuild I've decided that hose has to go, I filled the thing with silicone and was still never convinced it was truly water tight. I plan to run a single hose from the air box (usually needs sealing too) straight into the snorkel and making a plate around that.
There will be a bracket that bolts onto the snorkel halfway up. Then this screws into the windscreen A frame (again needs drilling) 5 screws I believe.
I can probably find you some photos when I get home.
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Worst. Landy. Ever. But seriously, I hope nothing ever comes of it.
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I've got that link cheers Ross. Very Handy.
I've bought it! Just got to get it back from Stockport somehow. I'm not too worried about storage space as there will be loads in other places. Putting a tray around the gearstick and getting a metal secure cubby box too.
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Thanks everyone. Looks like I'll be getting those HFH, the girlfriend was looking for a present for me for Christmas
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Right, after taking the dash off my bulkhead its pretty much all fallen apart. Most of the plastic has gone brittle and snapped.
Theres a TD5 dash on ebay clock and all. Would there be any problems in fitting this to the 200TDi bulkhead? It comes with the loom for the gauges which is handy too.
Any thoughts or problems? I personally prefer the TD5 dash.
Cheers all
Jethro
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Awesome, cheers Ralph. I found that on ashcrofts site after I posted, but didn't realise about the clutch. Looks like my clutch was replace with a 130 one by a prevous owner.
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Hi all,
I think I am most probably going to have to get a recon gearbox for my build. I would rather get a R380 than another LT77, but can I mount this to the 200tdi with a conversion plate of some sort? Would the gearbox mounts need moving and would it affect the bulkhead much? I think if I find the output shaft on the gearbox to be knackered then I'd rather get the more reliable box than just replace it with another LT77.
Also does it attach to the L230 just as the LT77 did. I will replace the main gear in the L230 with a cross drilled one anyway.
Bear in mind that I've just bought a new 200tdi chassis from marslands, this comes with the holes to mount the gearbox mounts for the LT77. I'm not sure if I really want to go drilling holes in it for new mounts as its galvanised. I may build up the courage to do so but would more likely just replace it with another LT77 if I had to.
I'll be adding more shiney pictures to the members vehicles section soon when I've finished painting my axels as I'll then have a rolling chassis again (and hopefully soon after a working vehicle once the bulkhead is sorted.)
Cheers
Jethro
PS I seem to remember Ralph did a R380 conversion.
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Great info there. Maybe your results should go into the tech archive so they don't get lost.
I'd also be interested in the answer to the fuel tank question as i'm considering the same on my rebuild. Although I have a new marslands chassis with TD5 rear cross member so I think mine would be easier, pre TD5 90 chassis would foul the normal mounting position for the tank as they have a larger x member. Thats my understanding anyway.
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Got my new box earlier today. Just got back from bristol (Grr M4, M25, A1M, A11, & A14 road works) The 4 bolt looks quite different from the 6, and is quite a bit heavier, I assume due to more substantial parts.
Anyway, can't recommend the guy at western power steering enough, he under promised and over delivered. He told me if I was lucky I could pick it up monday evening if not he'd post, I got a call at 12:30 monday telling me it was ready. Great service.
And now I have a 6 bolt box which he recons is ok apart from some seals to sell.
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Brill, the nice man at western power steering is throwing one in for me
Cheers
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Straight change, need drop arm part number QFW000020, I've recently done this swap as I couldn't get a replacement 6 bolt box, make sure you get the 2 small 'O' ring seals for the steering box end of the PAS hose/pipe assemblies too.
Is that the standard drop arm for the 4 bolt and the one i need?
Cheers
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Awesome, cheers ralph. I've heard the 4 bolt are stronger and more reliable too. I've just talked to him and hes going to have a look to see if he can do me a 4 bolt one. Should be about £250 which isn't bad without trading one in. I wish they'd never changed to the 6 bolt for those couple of years
Also the one i have has already been reconed before
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I dropped my steering box off today at western power steering as i happen to be in bristol over the weekend. The guy told me the 6 bolt ones are a PITA corrode and of sometimes arent worth reconditioning. Can I swap it for a 4 bolt one? I'd imagine i'd need a new drop arm but apart from that is it a straight swap or would i need other parts?
Cheers
Jethro
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This is what I would recomend, nice and simple, half dozen people in our club are running them with no probs.
http://www.4x4cb.com/public/item.cfm?itemID=1249
Andy
I have one of them. Very good, also has 3.5 mm output so I can plug it into the stereo.
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from Defender workshop manual, refer to the upper left diagram for your 90.
Cheers ralph. Very handy.
I got a draper flaring kit and its ace!!! now flaring takes a bit o getting used to but its tiddle easy when you get it... Think I found it on fleebay for a song!
I took me ages becasue I didn't quite read the instructions properly
... make sure you put a blob of greese/lub on the mandrel before you slide it into the end of the pipe - lub is the key to a good flare!very satisfying!
I think I was looking at the same things. Did it come in all different parts, there seem to be some grips like ones too
The pipes from landrover arent particularly expensive.
I priced up the long front to rear pipe the other day and its 12 quid...
For that money theres no point messing about with flaring tools etc.
Depends how long you will keep it for. Steel pipes from LR will still rust, whereas a copper pipe will last the life of the car
I think if its steel pipe coming from LR then I'd rather make up some copper ones. Unless I just waxoyled over them afterwards.
If you use the kit to form ends on copper pipe use a bit of brake fluid rather than grease or oil to lubricate the mandrel.
I have one of the cheap kits and it works reasonably well with practice although I think the better ones work every time all the time.
You're welcome to have a go with mine if you want?
Cheers David I may have to take you up on that if I ever get a spare day
My local motor factors make up brake pipes, just measure the length(s) and specify
what unions are required, or take in the old ones as a pattern. They can often do this
while I wait, or at least the same day, using copper pipe. Pretty cheap as well.
Don't you have such a place in your area? Nothing wrong with buying your own kit, of
course, depends how often you feel you may need it. You also need a selection of unions.
I shall ask, there's a couple local here.
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Well, i rang richards today, and she quoted 160 quid plus the vat for delivery, so thats the way i'm going, its never worth all the agro to save a few quid, i'd rather spend a day in bed than kill myself for next to nothing........ 4-6 weeks and i'll have a new chassis, i'll still wait to change it over xmas, as i have 3 weeks off anyway....!
Have you already bought it? I got mine for marslands the other week and they delivered it a week later. Seems like a long lead time. Mine was £140+vat for delivery, in norfolk. Like you I had considered collection but the saving just didn't justify it.
Also I would have thought the coppers main issue would have been all the bits poking out uncovered if you towed it on axle. ie the outriggers. They would do someone some serious harm were they to get in the way.
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Not fitted to mine which has (had) original (buggered) suspension from factory. I've bought some for my new setup which will be standard height but +2" shocks, so more articulation.
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I have a new chassis that I'm painting atm. Its not stamped. To be honest this thread nearly made my black trousers turn a little brown, but I phoned the local mot place they said its fine not stamped but bring the paperwork. Sweet...
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I asked my local NFU branch but they wouldn't insure anyone under 25 unless I had a relative with them already. Or maybe it was 21, in which case I'll be ok. Is that their policy all round?
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I find this topic interesting too as I will be looking to insure mine again. I was with CIS who royally screwed me by promising noclaims then saying they never said that. Then I went with adrian flux who seemed very good for the defender.
I've not had to insure more than one vehicle at a time yet but as I understand it if I have declaired my noclaimes to one policy on one car then I can't declaire them again for the defender. Or does this vary between companies policies?
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My props have no play in but I think I'll replace the UJs anyway as I am rebuilding the whole thing
... make sure you put a blob of greese/lub on the mandrel before you slide it into the end of the pipe - lub is the key to a good flare!
Fuel Tank
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Bump, can anybody help with this?