Bracco

I'm in the process of planning purchase of parts to re-build front swivels. I will need new swivels as mine are pitted and visibly worn. Has anyone had any experiences with with use/installation of caster corrected swivel balls? Any recommendations regarding chromed or teflon coated swivel balls? Any advice or tips regarding renewal of swivels are greatly appreciated.

HELP !!! shims should arrive tomorrow.... M10 is too small, M12 is too big, 7/16 UNF stops after one and a quarter turns... don't have a UNC... yet

Nige, Lovely fuel cap. Where from? Sorry for OT post, but I couldn't resist asking.

Does anyone know what size bolt/thread is needed to measure end float of the front axles? I have a set of shims coming soon and have not been able to find a proper bolt for the threaded end. 110/MY1985. Thanks

I am in the process of rebuilding brake calipers. I have separated the caliper halves. I know this isn't recommended but I needed to hone bores. I would like to verify the bolt sizes/specifications. Based on my measurements they are 7/16 by 2 1/4 UNF-20. I would assume the grade is 10.9, although the original headstamp does not identify the grade. As the brakes are rather important I would like to verify this information and know of any recommended sources for the bolts. Thanks in advance.

For the longest time it has been my intention to replace my tired 3.5 V8 with a 3.9. My understanding is that they are very similar and that the principal difference between the two , aside from the increase displacement, is that the 3.9 has 4 bolt mains so the bottom end is a bit better. Unfortunately, the 3.9's also have issues with porosity that can only be resolved/prevented by using a seasoned block with top hat liners. I am now in the process of actually looking for a motor and putting together a parts list so that I can begin planning the rebuild that will be done at a leisurely pace and will end in the fall (need to have it completed and installed before winter and low temperatures arrive). Many of the mechanics and shops I have been in contact with have recommended against the use of the 3.9 as their experiences have been that the 3.5 is more reliable over the long term. Now I'm having second thoughts... should I just rebuild a 3.5? Is there any benefit in using heads from 3.9? I use my 110 3.5 for daily commute to work, taking the dogs hunting, camping, greenlaning and playing in deep mud and snow when the occasion presents itself. I don't intend to build a 300 BHP fire breathing monster, but I would like to give her a bit more than the tired 3.5 has. Any advice, thoughts or personal experiences are greatly appreciated.

York 210L or 210R ?

I live in Italy... bad roads and moderate to high speeds. Motor is currently 3.5 with a 3.9 being prepared for installation in the fall.

The truck is a 110 CSW with 120 ltr rear fuel tank, 60 ltr side fuel tank, and about 100 lbs of gear in the back at all times. My principal concern is not to damage the fitting and I'm not sure how much lateral movement the upper shock tube is subjected to.

I would like a second opinion on how I routed the braided pipe and placement of the reservoir. LTR wasn't designed to be mounted with top ring parallel to frame rail... as a result the pipe either exits toward the tire or the frame rail. I managed to loosen the fitting enough to turn it just enough to route it between the shock mount and the coil tower. There's about 4 to 6mm clearance all around the fitting. Do you think this is enough space/clearance ? Does the top of the shock tube move that much? Any advice/opinions are greatly appreciated.

thanks Les !

Les, Its a 1985 110. Axle number 21S38523B. The inner seal has instruction embossed onto the seal indicating it should be seated at a depth of 4mm. Couldn't find anything on the outer bearing seal so I assume it fitted flush, with the gaiter spring on the inside, and that the spacer would seat the seal at the appropriate depth... am I on the right track? Thanks

I just replaced the fuel lines on my One Ten with stainless steel lines (5/16 OD). They look great and should last forever... however I broke two tube cutter blades and my ISO/bubble flare tool. Should you decide to use stainless I would avoid flares and use compression fittings (brass olives). All things considered I think it was worth the trouble and the results are very satisfying.

So both the inner and outer seals are seated at a depth of 4mm?

I'm in the process of rebuilding rear hubs. Which side of the outer seal face go on the outside of the hub... is it the side with the garter spring? Thanks