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About callum

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  1. burns well. yes ed, all these people had insufficient washer fluid. i was in a halfords today and they had a big washer fluid crate out front. Sufficient to -4 or the more expensive stuff, sufficient to -6. (should maybe just have read insufficient) a good number of folk will put that sort of stuff in their washer bottle and unsurprisingly it freezes when its colder than that. good for most of the year, but december, january february, it will freeze at some point. i think this is amusing our canadian friend somewhat. what's the temperature in the calgary vicinity at the moment john?
  2. things are getting bad when the chat goes to washer fluid. anyway, for comparison, the average joe will get some of this. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_217418_langId_-1_categoryId_229902#dtab so about £1 a litre. its considered a concentrate here, hence the outlandish claims of makes 100 litres if you mix with water. In truth i think its good to -23 so it just gets added straight from the bottle without mixing. a touch more pricey than canada, but then you're paying a bit of a premium getting it from halfords. you can get
  3. indeed, its just a case of getting the right washer fluid. Using normal fluid available here is quite expensive as you have to put in the fluid neat, which folk are not used to doing (the standard halfords stuff is only good to -20 neat, although the coldest temperature ever recorded here is -27, so it doesn't get that low very often). i imagine in colder climes, much more concentrated fluid is available making it a bit more economical, 50/50 mix i presume. i had trouble with freezing washers, which persisted until i could get the neat fluid through the frozen lines. defrosting the lines in th
  4. heard a few people say cowls make not much difference. i fitted one as i found that the heater was ok at low speeds, but at 60-70mph i was getting cold. i assumed this was because at high speeds the intake was in a bit of a dead zone so fitted a cowl to improve it. After fitting i found i was no longer getting cold at speed as air seemed to be getting in better. i went to the effort of cutting out the grill of the old vent cover first before fitting the cowl on top, so maybe that's the difference. who knows...
  5. have to say that whilst me heater struggles to fill a 110 with heat, one thing it is very good at, indeed better than many modern cars, is clearing the screen. in part it is probably due to the screen being quite wee, but it does seem to do that job very well. In any case, i think you should give your heater a thorough check over before making bigger modifications, might save you a bit of time/hassle.
  6. sorry al, that was a sly dig, which is probably inappropriate as i don't even know you. i don't think much humour translates well in forum form. was aiming at the usual use of the nv4500 being behind 6bt's etc for whom 20psi of boost is considered asthmatic and many other transmissions wilt under the strain. alas the 2.8 isuzu is not so mighty. Anyway your choice of bits is your choice and should not be affected by some random chump typing on a forum, i'm sure there are many factors which have influenced your choice of which i am compeletly ignorant. anyway good luck with your project (and
  7. http://www.engineconversions.co.uk/ shazam. there you will find conversions fot lt77, lt85, r380 and even lt95 if you want to go old school. M&d engineering flog them too, but they charge more. steve parker also has the adaptors too i think, but again he charges more. its a pretty common conversion, and the kits come with most stuff in them. they even come with instructions. al i don' think there will be many people using an nv4500 as there's not much demand for running a gearbox that weighs as much as the engine. i think you want to upscale your engine to a 4bd1 (for which adaptors are
  8. http://www.landyonline.co.za/workshop/engi...mentgauges.html http://www.landyonline.co.za/workshop/pricelist.html lots of rand, but i dont know how many £'s off the top of my head or how many £'s it might cost to land one on these fair shores. i daresay gromit can answer looks good, not sure if i should go for one of these or one of the cheaper yankee ones with only egt.
  9. got my eye on that now, thanks ralph.
  10. ahh, so you used the loom, there was talk earlier of hooking straight up to the bulbs themselves. i think your dodgy temp gauge means its time for you to get youself a vdo gauge so you can get some real real and accurate readings. you'll also now be able to buy from the 'vision' range which are lit through like the td5 stuff rather than lit round the edge. look forward to seeing it done, although i'd like to hazard a guess it wont be too dissimilar from taking a glance in to a normal td5. oh, have you got the fuel gauge working ok? callum (i'll keep searching for an instrument pod, someda
  11. nice work, but come on, let us see the business end of those warning lights.
  12. curses, missed a speedo on ebay on sunday because i forgot about it. went for £30 which doesn't seem so bad and the housing for £7.70. (not sure how much the warning lights went for) aaaanyway further little question. what is the makeup of the illuminated heater controls? is it just a hole with a translucent cover and the bulb mounted behind? i like the idea, but i wonder if its worth the bother of having to update the warning lights at the same time and if it might be possible just to cut the approriate holes and get the covers. Of course that then raises the question of do land rover just s
  13. this thread has gone off on a fairly cool tangent, beginning to like the sound of the electronic speedo. thanks callum
  14. how smooth should an early 110 mechanical speedo be? mine is pretty wobbly up to about 30, a fair waggle of the needle. i replaced the spedo cable last summer after it became incredibly wobbly and then snapped ( i think it was the original). i assumed whatever friction caused the old wobble before it snapped would be cured by the new cable, but it is not and is now annoying me a bit. would it be caused by a dodgy britpart cable or should i be checking the cable run thoroughly to make sure it is free from kinks or sharp turns or something? how smooth can i realistically expect the needle to
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