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AV8R

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AV8R last won the day on August 7 2017

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    West Coast, the Netherlands

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  1. That Ludwikprod site does not offer much help The dash looks like a two layer product, cut on a waterjet or laser cutter. Nice though.
  2. 110 Center rear axle to end of tub is 930 mm (36"5/8) 90 Center rear axle to rear of tub is 635 (25") Tub length for 110 is same as 109, 2140 mm. Measured from door edge to end of end capping. Tub length for 90 is 1420 mm. Tub length for 88 is 1320.
  3. Daan, nice truck in your picture but not a true SW as evidenced by the flat bonnet. Factory SW's allways had a "Deluxe" bonnet. Even when an extra spare wheel was required there was a dished "Deluxe"bonnet to go with that option. Snagger, don't worry about the wheels, I wll keep my Sankey dividable wheels in Military green. As far the roof is concerned, the soft top is there to stay. In it's present state VVV.
  4. Yes. As the drive flange thing's (rear prop shaft flange) diameter is smaller than the hole in the back plate.
  5. Thank you, gentlemen. The first owner was an Englishman who worked for a few years with the ESTEC space agency nearby in the Netherlands. When his job here was finished he sold it. Going back to the UK and the car being LHD was not convenient. My dad bought the car then in '67 and I bought it in '77. Still have some time to make up my mind. Going to change the engine soon. Just finished rejuvenating the steering wheel, turned out real nice. To the eyes and to the touch . And I need to do some serious work on the doors . . . . . . . . . . you know how it is with mechanical stuff 50 years of age
  6. My Series IIa started life in 1963 as a stationwagon. One of the jobs I would like to do in the near future is to bring it back to the colour scheme it had originally. Last week I got some photo's of my car, taken in the early 70's. As I could remember it was Sand with a tropical roof in Limestone and Limestone rims with black centres. What puzzles me is the Limestone grille panel, never seen this before. My dad, who bought the car in '67 did not apply this. Could this have been a factory option ? Also clearly is the matt finish, while all I see nowadays is a gloss finish. Someone opened my eyes by suggesting all paint in those days needed some waxing to remain glossy. I am very sure my dad never polished or waxed it. So gloss or matt ? All help and insights appreciated !
  7. You will be the first to know if the old plug will stay put when you hammer in the new one inside it . . . . . . . . . . I would not take a chance on it and work the old one out. It's not much work to do it proper now and fit the size that belongs there, that will most likely be easier to get. As Lo-fi said, check the ones in the block too. They are probably the same vintage.
  8. I would be happy if everything was within 0,1 mm. If torqued up gently the cast iron head is quite able to form itself to the block.
  9. Come to think of it, mine is for the Cologne type engine i.e. 2,3 or 2,6 or 2,8 Litre. The ones with the ignition in the rear.
  10. I regularly use Devcon F for repairs upto 120 ºC or Devcon Ti for upto 170ºC. Normally not on engine repairs but I did a repair on a RRC oil pressure sender mounting once. The original threads in the front casing were cracked and a replacement piece was bonded on with the engine in situ. The secret is like Lo-fi mentioned: clean, clean and clean again.
  11. Unless there's a copper head gasket, after 20 years of neglect a regular steel head gasket may be on the edge of giving up. Like a lot things steel, time takes it's toll. I know my V6 had a blown head gasket within 500 Km after it's revival, having not run for 20+ years. Not trying to scare you off, just to keep an eye on it.
  12. Another way of keeping the valves in place. In case you don't have compressed air. Remove sparking plugs. Rotate crankshaft so the piston of the cylinder you are working on is in a low position. Take a length of cord, about 6 to 8 mm diameter. Push the cord throught the sparking plug opening into the cylinder, leaving some outside to retract the rope afterwards. A knot in the end will keep the cord from entering completely. Now rotate the crankshaft until you feel resistance. The "compressed" cord will keep the valve in situ for you to do your thing with the seal.
  13. Overall view, gearbox side. Was taken out of a Series III.
  14. Running Maxxis Bighorn 255/85-R16's on 6,50x16 rims. Originally the wheels were intended for 1-ton Shorlands with 900x16 tyres.
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