edmason

I can’t get the temperature gauge to work properly on my Land Rover. My Series IIA has the 2.5l petrol defender engine. On the block there are 3 sensor terminals: 1. On the filter casing there’s a terminal, connected to the oil pressure warning light, which works. 2. On the n/s/f of the block, at the top, just behind the thermostat housing, is a terminal in a flat topped sensor, held in by 3 bolts, which is connected to the temperature gauge. When the engine is cold the gauge shows cold, and a test light to the terminal doesn’t light. As soon as the thermostat opens the gauge goes straight to hot, and the test light lights. 3. On the o/s/f of the block, at the side, near No 1 plug, is a brass hex with a terminal, not connected to anything. Test light = nothing, engine hot or cold. So, have I got a faulty gauge, a faulty sensor, or is something wired up wrong? Is one of these sensors for an oil pressure gauge? I’m trying to sort out a thermostatic fan. I’ve got a rad (from the Defender I assume) with a sensor/switch just below the top hose entry, which has 3 wires, black, red & white. I assume that red should be a +ve supply, black earth, and white should switch the fan (I’ve used a relay), but I can’t get it to work, and without the temp gauge working it’s hard to know what’s going on. Can someone help please?

I can’t get the temperature gauge to work properly on my Land Rover. My Series IIA has the 2.5l petrol defender engine. On the block there are 3 sensor terminals: 1. On the filter casing there’s a terminal, connected to the oil pressure warning light, which works. 2. On the n/s/f of the block, at the top, just behind the thermostat housing, is a terminal in a flat topped sensor, held in by 3 bolts, which is connected to the temperature gauge. When the engine is cold the gauge shows cold, and a test light to the terminal doesn’t light. As soon as the thermostat opens the gauge goes straight to hot, and the test light lights. 3. On the o/s/f of the block, at the side, near No 1 plug, is a brass hex with a terminal, not connected to anything. Test light = nothing, engine hot or cold. So, have I got a faulty gauge, a faulty sensor, or is something wired up wrong? Is one of these sensors for an oil pressure gauge? I’m trying to sort out a thermostatic fan. I’ve got a rad (from the Defender I assume) with a sensor/switch just below the top hose entry, which has 3 wires, black, red & white. I assume that red should be a +ve supply, black earth, and white should switch the fan (I’ve used a relay), but I can’t get it to work, and without the temp gauge working it’s hard to know what’s going on. Can someone help please?

I went to change the steering wheel on my 1964 Series IIA, only to find that the very tatty original chrome spoked wheel is secured on the splines by a pinch bolt, rather than a big nut on top of the column. All the aftermarket wheels (Mountney etc) I've seen are made for the usual large-nut-on-top-of-the-column set up. Can anyone suggest where I can source an alternative wheel. My existing wheel is 16". I don't want a really small one, 14" or 15" would make a difference. Many thanks. Ed Mason Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message

I'm new to 101's so sorry if this is old hat. How easy is it to convert a LHD 101 GS to RHD, & are parts readily available? Many thanks guys

Common problem on LRs where Diff-lock has never been used. From what you describe the diff-lock isn't engaging, but before you go any further, are you engaging diff-lock whilst moving? You can select whilst stationary, but it won't actually engage (or disengage) until you are moving, & can take a second or two to do so. Second, this is a Land Rover, so if it doesn't work first time, use more force. My recently acquired Defender needed a very hefty push to get the diff lock in & out, but I imagine its never been used. Its getting easier with use. When I get time to put it on the ramp I'll smother the linkage with WD40. I tend to shift in & out of Diff-lock, & from Hi to Low box when I'm crawling in traffic & getting bored, it exercises the mechanism, and its good practice trying to get smooth changes on the move.

The 235/85 Spare on my 90 is on the back door, but I'd like to move it to preserve the door itself, and to allow me to mount a mirror to see the tow hitch to help hitching up a heavy trailer. At present the spare obscures my view of the towball. I don't want the spare on the bonnet, or the roof, so I'm forced to put it inside, where it takes up a lot of space. I'm wondering if anyone has experimented with creating a well in the floor behind the bulkhead, which the spare could stand in so it takes up less room. I seem to remember some military Series vehicles had this (or was it the 109?)

Wouldn't spend a fortune at this stage. If you look on e-bay under Land Rover tyres you'll fin lots of choice of Mud Terrains already on wheels from people who are upgrading. Get a set of Mud Terrains and you'll notice the difference straight away off road. They will be noisy on tarmac, and not as grippy, but as long as you don't go for anything extreme like Simexs they are fine. Note alloy wheels use different nuts to steel wheels, so if you swap one for the other you'll need nuts as well. The very first thing on your off-roading kit list should be decent recovery points, so other people can pull you out when you get stuck. Then tyres, then diff and steering guards, and then a lift because it improves articulation on rough ground. You can go through pretty deep water without needing a snorkel, but petrol engines need the electrics waterproofing even for deep puddles. I wouldn't worry too much about rock sliders unless you are doing fairly serious stuff. They're not cheap, whereas putting a new sill on a Defender if you scrunch it isn't a big job, or expensive, or critical. Also get yourself a Hi-Lift Jack & learn how to use it safely, plus a decent tow rope (not a Halfords job), and a few shackles (Machine Mart have this stuff cheap enough). Oh and a basic CB to talk to your mates. Try 4x4 CB

I have same problem. I think simplest solution may be new steering guard with built in recovery points (paddocks £72 + VAT) & put the old one on e-bay. Probably get £30 for it. Paddoc Spares

Paddocks sell them, £14.50 + VAT. Simplest traditional solution if access to chassis rails underneath is obstructed. Fit with M10 High tensile bolts, & use a bridle (Machine Mart do a nice webbing one, which doubles as a tree strop) Not sur I've done this link right, but if it doesn't work cut & paste into your browser. http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF_ROAD/R...ies_-_pair.html

I've been offered some 2mm thick aluminium chequer plate to cover my trailer bed. How much is this stuff normally? Thanks. Ed

Thanks. I'll take the door card off & sort the sticking locks out at the same time.

Both my front doors have dropped because of wear on the hinge pin, so I've got new hinges. Getting the bolts out has been a pig in the past, but I put the impact driver on them, which has worked a treat except on one door bolt, which is pretty chewed up. Any thoughts on getting it out? The nuts on the back are not visible like a series. I assume there's a captive nut inside the door, so releasing it from the back doesn't look easy. I'm a bit stumped. Advice welcome.