allegedly

Had a similar problem accompanied by rough running at start up. Did all you've done as well as clean every sensor in sight and lubed up the turbo waste gate I think it was called,, except the springs as mines still on air. Fault codes indicating trouble with at least two injectors! An old boy in a local independent garage suggested a dose of red-x type diesel fuel additive and give it a good blast on a flat stretch of 'lonely' open road. Not looked back since!! Runs better than ever. However, just sorting out an immobiliser issue as we speak!! Good luck and you'll get sound advice on here from the lads who know. Cheers Rob

Hi guys, Update on this problem. As sierrafery recommended, I contacted Paul at Landrover Parts and am glad I did. Not only a supplier of reasonably priced, tested and guaranteed parts, he's a mine of information too and more than than willing to pass it on to diy-ers like me. Very prompt delivery too. So, new fusebox in passenger comp fitted, new RF receiver fitted and headlining replaced. Turned key to pos' 2 and left it for five mins then turned it on. After a bit of flashing lights, (including one I'd not seen before, the 0 shape with a diagonal line through it) the immobiliser turned off and she started! I did a walk round to test the lights etc and took her for a quick spin to put a bit of charge into the battery and test a few other things. Cruise control etc all fine. I've not got a new fob/key yet so I'm not going to test the remote locking just yet. No luck in the small town i live in, including a local locksmith who does auto keys, plus programming apparently for a very reasonable £65, so I'm going to get one of the 'blank' keys I've seen off fleabay and swap the PCB and key blade. Anyone got any experience of those? Not sure about just 'pushing' the key-blade into the plastic fob. I'll post on here how that turns out, just for info for the likes of me! So, easy fix in the end, just a bit of a pig to get out and in with the length of the wires on the plugs. I'm also going to monitor the condition of the battery more closely too from now on as I think that may have contributed a bit. As usual lads, great input and help on here and I hope my little posts help some other member. Cheers Rob

Thanks mate that's good info. By the way, where's the BCU located? I haven't had a look at that yet and as I've mentioned, it's a damp car!!

Roger that Sierra, Battery disconnected before any work carried out, I've learnt the hard way in the past. And yes, it's a facelift model. So I've got to specify one from or for a facelift, not just the part number? Is that correct? Thanks for the reminder about the 5 mins. I had read that but knowing me, I'd have forgotten by the time the part arrives. And just to mention it again, is there any particular supplier anyone can recommend for the parts? No probs with second hand parts if from reputable supplier. Cheers Rob

Registered on that site Sierra and there's one in a small village called Drumnadrochit just up the road about an hour away. I'll contact the guy and see what he says. Happy to pay if necessary or buy lunch or whatever. Got to get this done.

That's great Sierra and thanks. Little task for after dinner.....that'll please the 'boss'....!!!.

The passenger compartment fusebox is not as easy as I thought to get out. The number of plugs fixed in the rear panel make this awkward but with perseverance it comes out. Keeping a good record of what goes where is not a bad idea for convenience but the plugs only seem to fit where they're meant to. Opening was tricky with all the clips but I 'borrowed' cocktail sticks to hold the clips once eased open with an electrical screwdriver. It initially appeared to be okay but closer examination shows verdigris/corrosion at the bottom edge of the visible pcb around the lowest plug. Not sure if this is enough to cause any malfunction but looking at the 'tracks' I think it probably is and I will be replacing this unit. Close up of area.

The RF unit is between the two sun roofs in my 2002 TD5 ES Auto, to the left of the sunroof control unit. Undo the small clip and ease off the trim piece on the headlining. To improve access, I used a small screw driver to remove the sunroof control switch and then inserted a small posidrive screwdriver and undid the bracket holding the control 'plate' (or whatever it's called). This allowed the lining to drop away almost completely. Once out opened it up and there's no obvious corrosion except some discolouration around the fixing point/earth.

Hi Sierra Thanks for the input, always good and, yes, I agree. I've posted on here if anyone in the area has one but no response yet. Local very small Independent has a system but not sure which. Don't think it's a Nanocom though. I'm ordering a new fob blank off fleabay and a couple of micro switches too as one is damaged on the key. it still works (led flashes) when bridged with a small screwdriver but I'll solder a new switch in and put it/pcb and the 'blade' in a new fob. I've had the RF receiver out of the headlining and it shows no really obvious water ingress damage. The earthing part of it, like a washer that one of the bolts seats through has slight discolouring but not the verdigris I was expecting. As it's out I'm going to change it for a new unit so I know that'll be okay. The passenger compartment fuse box came out today as well. Not the simple job I'd expected. Jeez, the plugs are a pig to get out but once on the table I opened it up and there's a small area of corrosion at the base of the bottom plug, verdigris and discolouring/damage to the tracks on the pcb. I've put up a couple of pics for anyone in the know to give an opinion but I think it's best if I change it out. I've had no experience of using the diagnostic equipment so didn't know I could have it set to arm/disarm with key only. Does that mean I don't really need the fob transmitter? I tend to leave it unlocked the majority of the time and it's just the immobiliser being stuck on that's causing all this. So, in view of the above, can anyone recommend a supplier of the two items listed? I'll do the fleabay thing but a good recommend always increases confidence.

Thanks fellas, great input. I've been reading up on this and as they say, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing but put the way you've explained, makes sense. Especially knowing the water ingress history of my motor. Ally, thanks for the input re disconnecting the alarm sounder....the more i've read, the more I see it was the wrong move and you've confirmed it. At least now I know where it is and that it's fed from a separate battery so will go off regardless.... Getting the EKA means, I think, I can get the Landy down to a local independent lad I know with diagnostic gear. Just learning the questions to ask him and the info to give him now from your advice, so thanks again. Still not 100% sure about key-ing the door with the fob not working to silence the alarm if it goes off. Dave, I've left it unlocked for almost a couple of years to be honest and this is a new-ish problem to me/the car. But I think you're right and that's another investigation for tomorrow, head lining down at the rear sunroof and RF receiver out and examined. Interesting comment re the doors locking when you pull away (is that correct?) I say that as mine does not do this. Never has. Or have I mis-understood that point? Fred, yes the symptoms are surprisingly similar and the actions I had to take are almost the same but I'm thinking it's more to do with the water ingress now. The sensor above the mirror has been regularly wetted and I think this is also the case with the RF receiver on the inner roof. As usual, it's a learning curve with the next 'thing'!! My third Landy and I wonder sometimes why I do this......perhaps an extreme masochist in a previous life?!!! Want to try to record each option or answer as this is clearly not an uncommon fault and any info on it may be useful to someone....usually me!

Hi again Ian, Thanks mate, that sounds easily do-able and excellent description. I'll have it out tomorrow if it's not raining....(I live in Fort William so odds against) and check out the circuit board inside. Pleased about the price too. I rang the original dealer when I came off here before and got the EKA so when I've isolated the horn and, having read somewhere that I should do this too, finding out how to disconnect the alarm sounder. Not sure what that is or where but bit more research coming up. Cheers Rob

Quick update. I rang the dealer listed in the service manual as the supplier and got put through to a young lad called Andy in Parts at Vardys Aberdeen. He couldn't have been more helpful once I passed various details over. He provided me with the EKA code and passed questions i had to the senior technician so I was getting it from the 'horses-mouth' so to speak. So, another part of the puzzle filled in. Just got to work out why the key isn't talking to the car now. Not over the moon to be told the price of a replacement key or the price of getting it programmed to the car so looking at other options. Bit like the blind leading the not so bright!! Cheers Rob

Hi Ian, Thanks for the response. I'd checked the underdash fuse box previously but there's no obvious water damage/signs. To be honest, other than finding it actually damp or obvious signs of corrosion, I'm not certain what I should be looking for. How easy is it to remove and how? And once out, what signs should I be looking for? Not sure what the BCU is so I'm off now to do a bit of research. Incidentally, I've checked the manual that came with the car and while it has the radio code, it does not show the eka code. How can I get this? I have read you can contact a dealer (original supplier in service manual) and get it. Is this the case do you know? Cheers Rob

Hi Guys, I've read through everything I can find on this and I'm still a bit confused as to the cause/solution. My old D2 has been playing up for a while, intermittently failing to start at the turn of the key. As expected, the flashing red immobiliser light on the bottom part of the dash stops it's regular flashing when I insert the key into the ignition and turn to the first position. However, turning the key to start just results in the red light staying on constantly and no response from the engine. The fuel pump starts okay, windows and wipers work and there's no audio warnings or flashing lights that I've read of in other posts. The battery was/is good to the best of my knowledge. This has been happening for a while but after reading posts on here and else where, I tried removing the key and/or opening and closing the drivers door and that has generally 'sorted' it. Not now though. I've been away for a short while and since I've been back, it hasn't started at all. And now there's an additional problem. I renewed the key fob battery a short while ago and all was good for a while but now the fob has no effect on locking or unlocking the car. The little red led on the fob flashes but there's no response from the car. To be honest, I live in the wilds so it's rarely locked anyway. I've followed the steps to 'synch' the key to the car with no effect. I'm loath to try locking/unlocking the door with the key as the last time I did that, when I opened it with the key, the alarm went off and I had to quickly lock and unlock with the fob to stop it. But now with the fob being ineffective I don't want to try that. Like a typical landy, it leaks. Sunroofs I think so that will probably have some bearing on this. So, gents, any tips or advice on what to look at and where? The other thing is, does anyone live up near Fort William who owns a Nanocom or what have you who can maybe help? Lixtull are the nearest specialist but they're definitely not the cheapest either so any help gratefully received. Cheers Rob

Hi Western, thanks for the response. The diagram shows the O rings for the various hoses but not the one actually in the PAS pump adaptor pipe itself. I've added a diagram of the pump (up side down) showing the low pressure supply adaptor pipe and where it attaches to the pump body. The seal/O ring either sits in the groves you can just see around the edge of the hole in the body or around the female pipe itself. From your attached diagram, it goes to pipe 7 from the reservoir. I've indicated the place with an arrow and the letter A. The letter B shows a bracket that appears to fit over/under the diamond shaped flange of the pipe. Mine doesn't have this 'bracket' or whatever. I was wondering if this had any bearing on the problem too. Thanks Rob