JohnL

As you say, check the wheel balancing first. The shocks could well be shot and that's what I'd look at next. Are they leaking? Maybe get a suspension specialist to look at them (mind you they probably recommend replacing even is brand new!) If it's any consolation my mum never did what she was told either :-) Cheers, John

This happend to my 300Tdi recently and it was the hose worn through by rubbing on the adjacent breather elbow. In your case it could be the same, a spilt or loose clamp. Worth fixing as you'll be loosing power but it's an easy job. Cheers, John

As the boot floor isn't structural it doesn't need to be welded in place so rivets are a viable DIY option. There's still a lot of dismantling, cleaning, painting and drilling to do but nothing too difficult. It does need a lot of rivets and using an air riveter makes it so much easier. There are a few articles on it and here's just one of them: http://overland-rovers.com/ralphs-pages/repairs-and-ongoing-maintenance/182-boot-floor-replacement.html Another advantage of doing it yourself is, as you'll see in the article, having the old floor out gives you good access to those areas normally hidden from view permitting you to de-rust and paint everything before it gets hidden again - something a welder probably wouldn't do. Cheers, John

Without crawling underneath my land Rovers to check I'd guess it's where one of the wading plugs goes (there should be two: one on the bell-housing, one on the timing case). Normally left out to allow drainage, Land Rover recommend they be fitted if wading to prevent water and muck from entering. IIRC the plugs should be screwed into spare tapped blind holes ready for use but may have been lost long ago. Cheers, John

Usually Land Rover insurance = NFU and they should be OK about mods. But... different branches have been known to have differing view points so maybe ring a couple. Cheers, John

I'm guessing this is new oil rather than used so you should be OK provided the oil is clean. If used it will need some filtering. The consideration with veg oil is that it's more viscous than diesel hence mixing to thin it out a bit as too thick it puts a strain on the injection pump. Some get away with higher levels of veg oil by adding a little petrol but, in summer temperatures, 30% won’t need it. Carry a spare fuel filter as it seems veg oil has cleansing properties which flush muck from your tank and pipes. I’d recommend pre-mixing with diesel before adding to the tank but once mixed it stays mixed. In the winter I’d suggest reducing it or avoid it altogether unless you go the twin-tank/pre-heater route but the oil would have to be very cheap and/or you have a high annual mileage to justify the cost. Good luck and enjoy the chip-shop smell that’ll follow you around :-) Cheers, John

I once had uneven wear on a tyre and the tracking was correct so the fitter said: "I bet you live in a cul-de-sac?". I said I did and asked how he knew. He said turning around in the road the same way every day causes uneven tyre wear. Mind you that was with a car fitted with lighter tyres than you'll find on a 4x4 so, in your case, may not apply. I think I'd get the adjusters unseized (tip: a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone is a better - and far cheaper - pentrating oil than you can buy) and have the tracking checked again. Cheers, John

Certainly fuel related but suggest you try a new filter before taking the expensive dealer route. Cheers, John

I'd echo that as both need coolant to function. Had the coolant system recently been emptied I'd suspect an air-lock as there's a technique to refilling that some get wrong but as it's been working properly it must have suffered coolant loss. The Tdi engines really, REALLY don't like being run uncooled as the head warps at the drop of a (hot) hat so get it checked before driving again. It could be a head gasket and this won't necessarily be accompanied by white sludge on the filler cap but is the header tank showing excessive bubbling? Is there coolant in there to bubble? But obviously the first things to check are hoses and radiator. Good luck. Cheers, John

The longer you leave it the better and hot fluid will be even more effective - just don't try boiling paraffin up on the kitchen stove Even if you do leave it overnight it will still benefit from a few flushes with clean fluid. Collect all the dirty fluid, let it settle, pour off the liquid and store in milk containers for parts washing or, if you used white spirit, for cleaning paint brushes. Cheers, John

Any degreaser like Gunk or Jizer will do. I think I used white spirit just 'cos I had plenty to hand but make sure you thoroughly wash out with hot soapy water and dry before reassembly. Flammable fumes + hot turbo = a bigger bang than you may have wanted :-) Cheers, John

Good to hear Uh... I hope you just forgot to add the smiley as a few here helped you. We may not have had the answer but, nevertheless, it was still freely given help.

Have you flushed out the intercooler? The difference between a clogged one and a clean one may amaze you. Cheers, John

It could be the channel that supports the glass and raised by the 'scissor' mechanism has rusted out. Whipping the door card off will show you. Cheers, John