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tomw92

Getting Comfortable
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  1. Hi Folks, Sorry for the lack of update, I've been a bit tied up with work (le sigh)... I'm yet to take the pump off and take a look, but will hopefully get round to it this week, all being well. Work is a bit crazy at the moment. @Snagger, I get white smoke when starting, but it's fine once I'm away. If anything there's a small amount of black smoke when I'm giving it the beans. It starts just fine and sounds like any other 2.5na (LOUD!). Cheers, Tom
  2. I’ll give it a look over the weekend and report back. Thanks again for your help! Cheers, Tom
  3. Hi Monkie, Good thinking on the belt. When turning the pump by hand, what should I be feeling for? Just a smooth action? Yep, I even bought myself a shiny brass plug for the top of the rad after I chewed the original plastic one. Cheers, Tom
  4. It was in a white box if I remember correctly, grabbed it from eBay for £39 new. Listing title is "Land Rover Defender 2.5L N/A Diesel & Petrol Water Pump Bearmach STC635". Yep, that little plug was a bugger to get off! Measured it out too. Well, as best I could with plastic jugs on the drive haha. Cheers, Tom
  5. Thanks for the replies guys! @monkie Header tank is at the correct level & when squeezing the top hose, it does feel like there is water in there, plus it slightly warms up. @western This has crossed my mind. The only reason I am doubting it is because I did it in Oct 2019. Surely it wouldn't fail this early? Cheers, Tom
  6. Hi Monkie, I have a 74c (original) and also an 82c (which was fitted to the winterized defenders). I've tested both in a pan with a thermometer and both open at the correct temps. Water is definitely flowing around the matrix as I've had the thermometer on that and the pipes to and from it. Hoses that should be warm, are warm, which hopefully rules out an airlock. I re-vamped the heating system when I first bough the truck 2 years ago. This included heater cable adjustments, brand new heater matrix, foam seals, the lot. I've also removed the viscous fan a few weeks ago to see if it was that, however the results are just the same. The problem isn't just a cold heater, I believe that is a knock-on effect of the general cold engine temp and sluggishness. The engine used to get up to temp just fine and the heaters were actually great. This is a recent thing over the past few weeks where I cannot for the life of me warm the engine up. Thanks, Tom
  7. Morning Folks, I currently own a 1992 ex-MOD hard-top 90 2.5na, which has recently developed a bit of an overcooling problemo! No matter how far or hard I drive it, the temperature gauge never gets above a quarter of the way, the heaters blow cold and it's generally bit sluggish (yes, more than usual!). FYI the gauge used to sit firmly in the middle no matter what the weather! I've bought 2 genuine thermostats, the original spec one and also the higher temp one. Both of which I have tested in water with an IR thermometer and confirmed working properly. Yet when fitted, I still have the same issue. I've even had the IR gun on the engine and that is only getting up to 66c! Yesterday I took the truck to a local indy who has replaced the stat again and can't see anything else wrong with it. Finally, I've also replaced the cable from the temp sensor to the gauge and crimped some nice shiny ends on it, just to make sure that it wasn't shorting anywhere. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Cheers, Tom
  8. Hey Guys, Bought my first Defender in August (a lovely 1999 green 90 TD5) and only just had my first green laning experience at the weekend! It was great apart from one thing..... I was stuck in high range the entire time. At first the selector was stiff, only allowing high range and neutral, however after quite a bit of wiggling in and out, it is now extremely loose and is stuck in high mode and the knob moves freely (in all directions - can't be good). So to sum up: really loose lever & stuck in high range What have I broken? Is it an easy fix? Thanks, Tom PS. I'm not the most mechanically minded person in the world.
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