bowfinger

As has been said, don't go with anything electronic - a total waste of wire and money. My stolen 200tdi had an immobiliser and it was totally worthless when the thieving gits came calling. I used a clutch claw when my current 110 CSW looked like it wasn't worth nicking. I'll be looking at extra deterrents when I've finished the rebuild though.

Just to clarify. When I say there is no grey area, I do mean for music you do not already own in the form of a CD, tape or vinyl. I still say if you haven't paid the artist then you don't own it, so are not entitled to do anything with it. If you own the music on CD, tape or vinyl then you can rip it to your mp3 player without fear of the door being kicked in (as otchie1 says it is technically illegal but any record company that tried to prosecute would quite rightly be laughed out of court and told to enter the 21st century). Illegality starts when you give anything you have ripped from your collection to your friends or worse still, sell it on for profit (which is definitely piracy). For a lot of people it is a matter of conscience. A lot of new and struggling bands (mostly unsigned) are forced to get their music out there without asking for payment because there is a whole generation of people that think music should be free. Personally I like to pay for things. As for MINESAPINTS question of whether he can download something that he already owns elsewhere to save from having to rip it himself - I'd say yes you can, as the result is the same as if you ripped it yourself. And we7? Looks legal to me, but do you really want ads at the beginning of all your music?

There is no grey area when it comes to downloading music. Downloading music you have paid for is legal in the UK. Downloading music the artist or the artists record label has told you is free is also legal, but only because you have been given permission by the owner to do so. But downloading anything else is illegal and stealing. All peer to peer stuff (such as bit torrents) is stealing as you haven't paid the artist anything but you have taken possession of the product. You wouldn't walk into a shop and take a CD without paying for it would you?

No it isn't free. It's stealing.

These 2 pages are either the mother of all typos or the measurements refer to a completely different drawing.

You'd be amazed at how robust the chassis is when everything else is bolted to it. I recently stripped my 1984 110 CSW to do a chassis swap and it was only when everything was off that if fell to bits (and boy did it fall to bits). As long as you aren't chasing holes along stupid lengths then it should be OK to plate it. But if you want to keep you Landy for a long time (in a 'lets-not-use-up-the-worlds-resources-in-ten-minutes-by-buying-a-new-car-every-three-years' kinda way) you should start looking at putting a few quid away every month to eventually swap the chassis because once it has holes it won't get better. Swapping the chassis and looking after it will add at least another 20 years to its life.

there is also www.emusic.com

It's best if they are in a convertible.

I made the mistake of relying on the low fuel light to come on before I filled up. It had worked for me on my old 200Tdi. After the 200 was stolen and I downgraded to a TD it was only a week before I was employing the kindness of 3 passers-by to push me out of the middle of a national speed limit road and into a petrol station (which, as fortune would have it, we had run out of diesel just outside of). Turned out the low fuel light was a little bit dicky and hadn't come on. Now I use the gauge and fill up around the quarter tank mark.

I've never quite seen the point of racing a Land Rover at the lights. I've often had lads in their Renault Clio's (a car aimed at women if ever there was one) who were beside themselves with glee at the prospect of beating a Land Rover at the lights. It's never bothered me at all that they are faster, that not what a Land Rover is for. Horses for courses I say - Renault Clio's are for gaining maximum joy from pointlessly racing and Land Rovers are for winching the silly buggers out of the ditch they end up in.

I used a 13mm socket attached to a 250mm extension bar attached to a 150mm extension bar attached to my trusty Bosch impact driver. I had to fiddle around blind a bit to get the socket on the bolt but once it was on I just pressed the trigger and hey presto - no scuffed knuckles and all the bolts were out.

If your Land Rover isn't rattling then you know everything has fallen off and all you have is your seat! (and there is a good chance that will rattle too!)

I've been taking a peek at the rot proof carpet available off the roll from Woolies Trim with a view to making my own. Haven't got a sample yet but it's got to be cheaper than trying to get OE carpets. I just saw a set for a TD5 110 go for over £150 on ebay.

My first Defender was stolen. It had an immobiliser which didn't count for jack sh•t when the thieves came calling. I bought a clutch claw for my next Land Rover and I reckon the robbing bast*rds would have a real job to remove it, it's hard enough with the key. That said, a determined thief will find a way, and that usually involves a trailer. There is no substitute for the vehicle being out of sight. Mine was obviously targeted as it was always out in the open. I'm modifiying my garage at the moment to make room for the Landie.

I always understood the function of the vents in the bulkhead was to keep dust from coming in the back door in dusty environments. It's an air pressure thing I think (don't quote me on that). That's why I was a little alarmed and sad to see that the 2007 Defenders don't have them anymore.

Make sure you have a 13mm of everything - normal socket, deep socket, ring spanner, open ended spanner. I've just dismantled my 110 CSW and I took to leaving all my 13mm stuff in my overall pockets because most times nuts and bolts turned out to be 13mm, this way I didn't have to scramble out from under wherever I was to find the right socket/spanner. If you've got a bit of spare cash and feel like treating yourself I would seriously recommend a cordless impact driver. I have a Bosch GDR 10.8 V-LI Professional. They are quite pricey but you'll notice the difference between a professional tool and a DIY tool the minute to pick it up. It's about the size of a Star Trek phaser and was my most used tool during the strip down of my 110 CSW. It made undoing nuts and bolts less of a knuckle skinning exercise as all I had to do was hold a ring spanner on one side and let the impact driver do the rest. Makes a very manly rattling noise too!

£60 rear door????? I assume you mean an unglazed one.

Thanks for the info. I was kinda erring on the side of the existing axle (less hassle from the DVLA) and as my 110 will ultimately be loaded up for a family camping trek to Italy I think it will be sensible to use the Salisbury.

Hello everyone. I am currently rebuilding my 1984 110 CSW onto a new chassis and I have a choice of rear axles. Both appear to be well used but are very different. One had a round diff casing, (this I'm calling the mystery axle as I don't know where it's from) and an odd anti-roll bar (both pictured). The other is the axle that is currently on my 110 CSW (last pic). I have heard that the original axles on 110 CSWs are tougher due to the extra weight and that using an 'inferior' axle is not recommended. Can anyone advise? Is the mystery axle up to the job or should I stick with the tried and tested existing axle. The wheels attached to the mystery axle are from a Range Rover I believe if that helps identification. [attachmen t=11437:My_axle.jpg]

Hi everyone. I have the headlining of my 110 CSW sitting in my living room with a view to cleaning it (it's filthy). I tried a bit of upholstery cleaner and due to the amount of scrubbing needed the headlining was starting to aquire an afro and I could see myself spending an absolute fortune on the stuff. I was wondering if hiring a carpet cleaning machine would do the trick. Anyone tried this or have any better ideas?

£2000-£3000 vs around £18,000. I'd go down the cheaper route myself. I own a 1985 110 CSW that I'm currently putting a new chassis on (amongst other things) and that alone will give the car around another 20 years of life. Land Rovers are meant to live forever in a Frankenstinian fashion in my view (a new bit here, a refurb there). Besides, the loss of the front vents on a Puma would be just too much for me to bear. Wash and brush up the TD5.

I have never been able to lock the rear door on my 110 CSW with the key and have always had to use the button inside. I even bought a new barrel for it and nothing changed so I'll be very interested to find out if anyone knows what voodoo needs to be used to get it to work.

Thanks western. That sounds like the best option.

Hello everyone. I'm new here and I'm one week into replacing the chassis (amongst other things) on my 110 CSW. While I'm at it I intend to replace the shocks and springs and had thought I would put heavy duty springs on as we will ultimately be carrying 2 roof tents plus all the usual overland stuff. But after looking into it, all the HD stuff says 'not for self levelling suspension'. Is this because as I have self levelling suspension I don't need HD springs? Cheers.