seriebil.dk

Will when i have two mondays in a week, make build tread of my 109" 😉 Fit the Intercooler, i'm with Daan. I had same issue with space, as my PAS is placed in the original series location, througth the chassis. pushing the radiator to the other side. but have no AC. i ended up fitting a Intercooler of a SAAB 900 petrol, a bit bigger and it has inlet/outlet in the same end and fits between the series wings without cutting. made up a airduct in front, fitted a SPAL fan between the intercooler and the radiator. SPAL makes some really slim fans, maybe a way for you ?

Hi, nice build, Cool PAS setup I'm running LT77S + LT230 with series diff. in my 109" after 300 TDI. With series 4,7 diffs. the 1.2 ratio is no good, to low. i change to 1.0 ratio from a RRC auto LT230 that made the trick. i'm cruising at 100/110 km/t and have room for more. Gives me at very low Low gear, perfect for slow off road in a nice truck. so with 1.2 ratio and 3.5 diff. you are fine. Remenber to fit Free wheel hubs or alter the LT230 to 2x4/4x4 ashcroft has the kit.

looks very similar to me.....🧐 https://www.holden.co.uk/p/austin_morris_1100_mk_ii_1300_indicator_column_mounted

That's the one i used, only i had defender mounts on my chassis already. but you will have to remove the series engine mount anyways.

look in the tech archive, it is there, thats were i found it and made a bracket for my 109" 300 TDI

made this for my 109"

that contains - Dodge Power Wagon, real cool truck, but don't remember them being build as station wagons

found it - M14 in a cut down length

Hi i have LT230 in my car, with a hole for a neutral switch, i don’t have the Light or the old switch, so need to blank the hole, What is the tread size to find the right bolt

I guess a lt77S would give you better rpm in fifth gear, a friend had the same experience after fitting a 200 TDI with LT77, LT230 1.2 ratio and series diffs i his 109"

HI Tuko Reading this up again for my own 109" build, I was wondering: is your LT77 a Standard LT77 or a LT77S ?

How wide is the C-channel you put in ?

Check to that one, but 109" STW Project still on +10 years now.... Althougth in that time the Daily drive 88" got several jobs done, rebuild the house twice, plus complete garden redone. In other words: life got in the way ( took all the build money)The 109" project got stranded when we bought the farm, and first got back on track last winter when time finally was left for it. And now the motivation comes natural from finished bits and putting things back together, also the final goal of being able to fit the hole family in one Land Rover is a great motivation.

i had the same problem, finding a good used one, by luck i got 1 for cheap, stripped it and had dipped in zink, hope that will extend the lifespand. it did not warp or any thing and looks nice and shiny now.

I know it is in a series, but my take on the CD-free radio install the sides are the original center console and the plate is a copy of the plate made for the belgian army 2wd version, where they mounted the NATO light switch. i put some toggle switches on the driver sides, mine been a LHD and on the other side, a new fuse box for this panel alone. the sockets have been change to normal 12v socket. on the blank part i today have a Ram mount arm for phone/tablet. Best part - No new holes drilled, all holes are already there.

Thanks, well i use a LHD box because a RHD won't fit behind the frontpanel. and LHD is more common i Denmark. The angles on the photo looks a bit extreme, I moved the complet steering around a bit, which divided the angles more to both U/J's. also the bottom end of the steering coloum is not fixed yet, i have to modify the bulkhead support first and find the right length on both sides of the bulkhead - glad i have the 88" to take measures from. about the pitman arm, i have research a bit on Santana and it seem a pitman arm from a Santana 1982 and forward has the same splines and the needed bend, so have to get one of those - i guess SWMBO aka GLW won't mind a holiday trip to Spain to pick up some parts....

also been busy cleaning parts using citric acid in this big grey tank with lid. drop it in leave for 24 hours or more, wash in water, wirebrush them a bit. if not clean enough, just back in the tub and wait 24 hours. easy, clean and it will remove everything: paint, rust, etc. but no oil or grease.

Well, better get this back on track With a little help from friends i got the Pitman arm of the P38 servo unit and set to work, machining Grinding it down in size to fit in the original series steering relay hole. along that i made the top plate which will hold the servo unit. well see pictures. removed the alternator and a trial fiiting of steering parts. parts used: P38 Servo unit, steering coloum and links from 2008 puma 110" and the original pitman arm - maybe i can just lower the Servo unit 5-10mm more and bend it ?? any one tried bending cast iron this thick Can any one give me a measure on how much of the steering coloum i should have on this side of the bulkhead ? - i have no reference, as i'm building from collected parts, no donor car.

I looked at that too, RHD will mean it won't fit behind the frontpanel, if you look closely on som of the photos in that tread, you can see his servo unit is very tight with the front panel. i will try to make a try fit and take photos, just need to get that pitman arm off.......

Yes i hope the ratio will work, you all had me going, the other day, when writing about ratios and diffs. i'll stick to this, until proper road tested, if not working i can go both 1.003 og 3.5 diffs. the problems is not the alternator and the wings, it is getting better space for the steering rods and P38 servo uit. i might explain better. i'm fitting the P38 servo unit in the hole for the normal series steering relay - WHY?: due to danish law, i'm not allow to alter the chassis and fitting the servo house on the outside of the chassis is to big a modification of the steering setup for the MOD guys to approv. see this tread for more, i'm just doing it on the LHD side: http://www.lightweightlandroverclub.net/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5472&start=15 so cutting the wing is to get space for steering rods, moving alternator is to get better space for P38 servo unit

Hehe, edited, please bare with me - english is not my native tongue Torpedo = Bulkhead

Hi I hope you will find this interesting and that i can get some advise, even the fact this Land Rover is LHD. History of the project is long, way to long. it started some 10 years ago, when i bought a 1967 109" STW, Ex. danish civil defence. got it home, stripped it apart and order a new chassis, springs and started to rebuild it. Then life got in the way: the project has moved twice, changed specs several times and will for sure change again. but this is how it looks to day: 1965 SII 109" STW on the papers Richards Galv. Chassis, made for 2.5 N/A engine, removable gearbox crossmember Rocky mountians spring Salisbury rear axle, series diff. Std. Rover front axle, series diff. Disco 300 TDI engine LT77S gearbox LT230 transfer, ratio 1.2 PAS steering - LHD P38 steering house + defender coloum and the rest series SIII Bulkhead SIII front end SII from bulkhead and backwards. Interior - will come in time.... Status oktober 2015: Chassis with springs, dampers, axles = rolling chassis Engine and gearbos mounts made, using 2.5 N/A chassis mounts, LHD side engine mount from 2.5 and homemade RHD mount to go around the oliefilter, gearbox mounts from 110", bolted to chassis in new holes with crush tubes. engine and gearbox dropped in for test fitting and task finding. SIII bulkhead in the making, found a good one, the only need og new footwells and doorpillars - ready for test fitting and modification to suit the LT77 gearbox and new steering setup. SIII Frontpanel - found a rustfree takeoff, and started to mod it for 300TDI radiator and TD5 intercooler. radiator needs to sit as far to thr RHD side as possible, to leave space for the P38 steering house, the intercooler just high enough to clear it So now the task at hand: being a LHD, my space on the LHD side of the engine is kind of restricted, hence the P38 servo and defender coloum, giving much better space around the Turbo and alternator. i will have to cut the inner wing and make some new, but would prefer keeping it to a minimum. I know I can get(or make one up) a Gwyn Levis bracket for a second or in my case one alternator in the A/C spot, that moves the alternator for me, leaves great space for steering and hoses in the old spot. but what about the Fan belt ? can i just get a shorter one or do i need to make up on idle pully or ?? any advises would be helpfull.

Hi I'm fittings a P38 Pas system on my 109" and in this Project i need to get the bolt and pitman arm of the PAS box, but the bolt is stuck. Before setting it up in a vice and applying BIG air tool forces to it or even heating it. Any tips or hints would be nice, Thanks

Hmmm, might have to rethink the Dash setup in my S3 109, a second time. Anyone got a RRS i can strip for parts cheap... Interior i really like, outside i'm parted, some things look great, but the lights look wrong to my liking.

Great, that the answer i wanted i found several parts numbers, but all ended up at the same number in the end. thanks