trt1617

Only took the centre out as there was a bit of movement side to side so thought I'd just check the bearings and one of them is pitted quite a lot, thought it would be best to replace it while it's out. Have got a dial gauge so not a problem there Just last time I tried I changed the pinion bearings (with cheap ones) messed the pinion height up and ruined the crown wheel and pinion! Ended up getting kam diffs to fix it and put a locker in .

Afternoon all A few questions on diffs if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be a great help last weekend my front diff let go big time so got a second hand one from a disco as all my running gear is disco, have taken the diff out and found the carrier bearings are pitted to old f bags so bit of a waste of time getting it really so here goes 1 is a rear diff the same as a front one coz a mate has a rear one i can have thats ok for nout?? 2 can i just change the carrier bearings and try and set it up? as the pinion bearings are ok so the height hasnt changed.is it just setting the backlash?? 3 anyone live near me that fancys doing it for some £££? and how much?? ya gotta love a landy :hysterical:

Ok thanks I'll try and ring tomorrow thanks for the advise I think it way you and Steve who sorted my diff out for me I sent it down to kam with mr v8 freak! I guess the product is still the same have been reading a few posts about problems with the lockers, but mine has been fine only messed about once when the diff oil had turned to slime!! Cheers

Was gonna get a kam for the front as I already have one in the back and don't have an air supply on my truck. Is the customer service not to good then? As you mention about the phone not being answered!! Thanks

Afternoon all Does anyone know if kam will sell a diff cover and mount ring without buying the diff itself? my front diff let go at the weekend so need to fit a new one and at some point want to fit a locker to the front,already have one in the rear. so thought while the axel is in bits could fit the cover and stuff so when i finally get round to the locker i dont need to remove the lot to cut it to peices again. and any idea of price??? many thanks

Yea sound about rite then fits but its not really easy to get over the final pully

thanks for that. well i seem to have the smaller pully on the alternator so guess the short belt is the one i need then

Evening all can any one tell me if there are 2 different belts that would fit a 1996 300 tdi engine as recently i replaced the bearing in the tentioner and fitted a new belt while i was there as the old one was a bit well alot ruined!! the new one that turned up was much tighter than the old one to get on. Now i know the old one could have strecthed and thats fine but within a week of doing the belt my alternator bearings failed in a big way at the weekend leaving me stuck on the side of the road so got the alternator fixed today and just wanna know if there is a choice of belts that may fit my engine and the place just guessed on one and its to short maybe many thanks

Afternoon everyone Does any one know if a 300 tdi pas pump is rebuildable? If so where can parts be brought from and are they worth doing? Just noticed there is about half an inch of movement forward and back on the pully so im guessing there is something quite wrong inside!!! thanks

Well its always worth an ask and when the workshop comsumables bloke came round thought it give him a try for some decent cable and he said "hang on think i might have just the stuff you need" had a hunt round his van and fished out a reel of 10m of some big cable not sure of size but its bigger than whats between the motor and solenoid that it came with so quite big,and fine multi strand and very flexible Then came the price it started to sound bad,him giving it the well i dont get this in very often and its special order,and im thinking i best go sit down then it turned to well its old stock now and been kicking around for a while likeing it so far!!!! "hows 30 quid sound?" he says well i now have all new wire everywhere to the warn and it pulls really well gave the boss lady at work a shock as i pulled her freelander backards across the yard with it in park and the handbrake on awsome just need to get out and use it properly now :D :D :D

the bast%£&s

ok guess the bridge must be wrong then thought it sounded a bit high and if a 110 with big tyres and all that comes in at that there is no way a 90 could come in at 2400kg surly

it has an internal eaternal cage and front winch its been converted to disco running gear and engine box ect a small tool box with a few tools in for emergency repairs and probably some mud stuck in the chassis and thats about it

but it was empty and i was gonna fit a rear winch and some tube wing bars so its gonna weigh more than the max laden weight when its empty

ok now im worried as i took a scrap trailer to be weighed in today and on the way out of the yard i pulled back on to the weigh bridge and they weighed me out to sort out how much the trailer and scrap were worth and the print out read as my truck alone came out at 2400kg just to be clear i left the trailer there as it was scrap so just my truck parked on the bridge :o

So gross weight meaning the highest total weight of the vehicle? as in it cant weight more than this??? thanks

Evening all can anyone tell me what all the weight measurements mean on my chassis plate please? as the boxes next to the numbers are blank as in the paint code box They read as follows 2400kg 5900kg 1200kg 1380kg the bottom two im guessing front and rear axle weights?? maybe?? many thanks

wow just been to my local supplier of wire type stuff and been quoted £175.00 plus vat for a 10mtr reel of 50mm2 cable

well it seams i have a few wireing problems that seen to be only present when the winch is under load 1 as you have all mostly said the earth cable for the motor is being one as with a jump lead back from the motor to the battery it is much better and would seem useable the system drops to about 10.5v and i cant stall the winch so with a proper cable and terminals on it should be even better 2 seems the main pos battery terminal is playing up while there is load on the winch as i can wiggle the wire and it starts to get lets say warm so guessing some sort of carp connection in the battery terminal where the lead goes in 3 gonna change the wires between the alt and the starter coz while iv been looking around them it seems they have been very hot at some point and the insulation is cracked in places so think it will help if the amps from the alt can get back to the battery in the 1st place 4 just to be sure ran a cable from the battery to the solenoid to bypass the original power cable and this also seemed to make a difference think im just gonna rip all the winch electrics off and start again well thanks for all the advise and one last question what size wire would be suitable for the power and earth cable to be made from????? thanks

havent had time to get to the truck today but due to the higher gearing of the warn the amp draw under load would be more yes? if so could the fact that i used the engine harness off the td engine when i put the 300 tdi in my truck have something to do with the problem as i seem to remember the wire joining the alt to the starter being made up of like 3 bits of wire.and with the extra amp draw maybe they are not up to the job as im sure the 100 amp disco alternator should be will try and get out to look at it some time as its starting to bug me now as i wouldnt want to get it stuck somewhere as it is coz its not gonna pull itself out of sod all

yea its your old winch mate gonna try the earth cable back to the battery as soon as i get chance to but surely it wouldent drop the power of both batterys down to 8.5v at the batterys?at the motor yea if it had a bad earth but surely the voltage would stay up at the battery end?? have got the earth bolted to the under side of the motor so should be ok that end pat pending have you any idea if it was a 2.5hp motor that was fitted?? might just for testing run a pair of big jump leads i have from the battery and see if it makes a difference

ok just been outside with a meter on the winch system and batterys and with a bit of foot brake on the winch pulls the whole system down to 8.5 volts and will nearly stop!!!!!

Yea when its putting cable on the drum with no load i will over run if thats the correct term as in you let go of the switch and the drum keeps turning for a short while, the cable was what was on the truck already for a 12000lb winch and that worked ok gonna have to got the meter on it at some point i guess and see whats going on the earth cable is on the chassis at the front of the truck might try running a cable back to the batterys and see if that helps

ok it had stood for a while an i did strip the external part ot the brake off but didnt take the shaft or cam gear out that may be the problem then!!! are there any other symptoms if this is the case?? as the brake seems to work ok and it will free spool out ok and power out easily and power in with no load easy? thanks

sorry didnt mean oil in the motor just where it was meant to be havent got round to cheaking it with a meter today been out building a kiddys play house as a favour for someone so will try tommorow anyone got a stardard warn that works ok that they can bung a meter on and get some known good readings at the motor under load???? thanks