Jump to content

Frode Haaland

Getting Comfortable
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Frode Haaland

  1. On the beautiful site Discovery2.co.uk the issue of gearbox crossmember is included - which is often overseen. However, it does not say the thickness of the aliblock to lower the gearbox crossmember to clear the propshaft, which renders this section of the text useless. Anyone have experience here to share, so spare me unnecessary purchases and testing?
  2. There's a tech bull on this. Disconnect multiplug under vehicle, at the left hand side of autobox, adjacent the XY-switch (what You move with the gearhandle). If there's rust inside plug: Renew switch AND the cablage inside gearbox (it's really not that big problem, it's about cleaniliness and working on Your back for some while an little more than that). If no rust: How old is oil/filter? 2yrs/40.000km is (more than) sufficient, even if LR claims it will last for 2 or 3 times that! (i.e.: Might be down to tear and wear). Some vehicles suffer for glitches like this for years on with no further problems, but don't rely on it!
  3. Errr....nobody else fits extended bumpstops when lifting D2s?
  4. Have to stock brakelines and nipples for D2 brakes locally. Anyone know the threading/size of the copperlines and nipples?
  5. I'd rather fit 2" extended axle bumpstops on my lifted D2...but who make/sell them? There's an abundance of RRc, Def, D1, but where do I get for a D2, which has another design?
  6. Anyone have a product# for Discovery2 (Goodridge) steel braided brake hoses +2"? Local retailers here across the ocean can supply any goodridge brake hoses (they claim), but they (nor I) can find any product# in their catalogue for an extended version. My 2000MY D2 is lifted around 2", so I guess I should fit extended hoses.
  7. I have replaced the centre silencer with the "SS intermediate silencer replacement pipe", but find the cabin noise has increased way too much. Anyone tried to replace the D2 rear silencer with a straight-through pipe - I would guess it should give a better noisereduction (at least) in the front part of cabin? Does anyone know of any suppliers of ready-made such?
  8. Seems nobody been there, so nobody's done that. This is how it looks
  9. Got an Allisport intercooler supposed to fit a D2. Vehicle is an automatic. Height of the new Allisport unit is 8-10cm higher than original IC (and around twice the thickness) - the height seems to be like original IC + transmission cooler, hence to space to fit it (or I would have to (re)move oilcooler... Anyone fitted an aftermarket IC, and can tell me if I got the wrong type, or is this a case of moving transmission cooler?
  10. You're correct...if the drag-link has correctly set length. If it is too short/long it will pull one side or the other. Think of it this way: When You turn the steering wheel beyond dead ahead, You want servo assistance to turn the wheels. If the draglink/steering box is incorrectly set up, i.e. the drop arm points this or that direction, it is efficiently the same as if You have already started turning the steering wheel, wanting servo assistance. A first chk is then to measure the length of draglink (cfr manual for this). To chk more thoroghly: If I remember correctly (chk manual) You can insert a pin to lock the steering box dead ahead. If the vehicle then turns one way or another, the drag link needs adjusting longer or shorter. Then You will come in what's known as zero backlash position, and the vehicle stops pulling left or right. But: First of all: Some claim gas charged steering dampers to pull on the steering, and as this is two nuts only, chk that first. Happy spannering!
  11. What has happened recently/which repairs have You been through? Assume You have checked draglink and track rod for being bent, and calipers and bearings. Then remove steering damper to check if it has any effect. Then check steering box for beeing at point of zero backlash (i.e. drop arm point dead ahead when front wheels are pointing dead ahead - if not: You will have steering servo assistance pulling steering rods).
  12. The lock-up points after fitting larger tyres (32") is really a joke: ~57mph, meaning the converter will be spinning from here to eternity, locking up only once in a fortnight ...translating into worse fuelconsumption and so on. Can the lock-up points be changed using Autologic, or can this be achieved using a different converter only? (It's a 2000MY, hence not the NNN-ECU, if that matters)
  13. Why would You want that? Raising the rear is as easy as described! Want 2" lift? Fit a longer bracket! Want 0,5" lift? Fit a shorter bracket!
  14. A small bracket fitted between sensorarm and radius arm will trick SLS it to lift the rear (the sensors is being fooled into thinking it has become 1" lower than it actually is. Make a small bracket from simple flat iron with a bolthole distance of around 50% of the lift You want. If it sits too low - make a new one with a bit longer distance between the boltholes. I have 2" spacer under airspring, and a brackets on the SLS-sensors. Mind: 1) SLS works with door closed only (guess how I know) 2) If sensors are moved beyond what it regards as a "normal" range, SLS might turn itself off. Hence, if (doors closed) vehicle won't lift itself, jack it (using tow bracket) until wheels hang freely, and lower the vehicle down again. Maybe a few times, then start vehicle again, and SLS should work.
  15. The CD-changer (the Alpine type) is shot, so I need another - and the head unit of course has the obsolete cassette option - so a full upgrade of both might be a reasonable option. 1) To run another CD-changer: What would I need to use it together with OE or another aftermarket head unit? 2) If swapping for another Head Unit - will the steering wheel buttons be lost? Do I need what to make them still work?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy