oakesy

Possible air leak on the pipeline feeding. Also the fuel outlet could be picking up the dregs residue in the tank if low.

Has you engine been struggling. As the oil ingress through the ECU lead will be coming from the engine under the rocker cover. These cable end up needing replacing because the oil channels through length to the ECU plug. There will be archive of how to remove correctly.

140K AND STILL GOING STRONG. As long the service is done correctly every year no problem. Have a look at your breather filters on both rocker cover area. When I got mine before the LPG add-on I had white creamy residue in both metal filters and tubing. Soon replaced and no problem ever since. Do the usual checks if the parts original IE distributor, HT, Spark plugs, leads. If you have an amplifier attached to the original distributor maybe wise to have a spare handy.

Simple rule "IF IN DOUBT CHECK IT OUT" Always play safe when dealing moving parts.

I had a 1984 Ninety a few years back with a 2.25 na engine. Slower than custard, but solid and reliable. If your looking at 2.5 na then slightly quicker not much but reputed to be good work horse. Price depending on condition really for a general elephant head butter less than a grand. For a pampered type two maybe three grand on the over inflated price guides within landrover mags. As long as the engine is sound and the gearbox is happy then even 2.25 or 2.5 na is tough enough :rolleyes: . Most have conversion to 200 or 300 tdi due to the older engines eventually gave up head butting elephants and needed more umph. :unsure:

Likewise with my LR 110 CSW 3.5 1988 model petrol say 14-17 on LPG 13-16 But being an old type still nice to drive around and wave at fellow Defenders and Series in Manchester.

You could try Wolvine heater pad. This can be stuck on the bottom outside of the tank and plug in for a few hours. As for a coolant method you will have rig a lot of heating pipe to act as a mini radiator and waste a lot of time waiting for the engine to heat up an circulate the coolant.

Either your eating strap is poor and needs replacing. because directly connecting negative to the chassis and a positive connection should show on any test meters. 1. Test the battery first. 2. Test a simple circuit with light bulb method by connecting to earthing point on chassis then negative end of wired bulb to chassis. next attach positive wired end of bulb to positive terminal. 3. A very bright bulb will not show poor battery or weak cable join each will need checking and replacing. Hope this helps

There are some seat raisers and some that can give different angles when moving the seat fully back that might help. I have the same problem being six foot three and a bit portly since last christmas pudding.

I don't have the size sorry but according to the bible parts book. ERR4686 is the same plug used on the main radiator 300tdi next to the intercooler assembly.

Hello Fandrover. Have you ordered your new switch. If not, I did a rummage around the odd collection in the shed. And I remember I had a reverse switch from an old Land Rover 1984 which had a LT77 manual gearbox. HERE IS THE PICTURE. If you would like I could post no cost. Just email me your address. john@oakesc82.calloo.co.uk regards john

PRC2911 FOR USE BEFORE 1989 PRC8204 FOR USE AFTER 1989 So really depends on the age and like for like. The length is critical for contacts to work when selecting reverse.

May have cause a restriction after the removal and have no resistance pressure have the original prop attached . Also may have not noticed the hand brake had a sticking problem before when the action from the prop countered the retraction . Or maybe you had left a brick before when you removed the prop as a safety precaution and forgot to remove the brick :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: .

Problem you will have is contamination issues from the materials used in construction and make up. I think there are design models for expedition to africa in current land rover magazines you could try first.

Prices for a replacement Engine can vary from suppliers or sources. Have the Garage assess the problem first if unsure? Then ask after damage report to cost replacement or repair. The oil maybe leaking from the engine via the handbrake. :(