oakesy

Possible air leak on the pipeline feeding. Also the fuel outlet could be picking up the dregs residue in the tank if low.

Has you engine been struggling. As the oil ingress through the ECU lead will be coming from the engine under the rocker cover. These cable end up needing replacing because the oil channels through length to the ECU plug. There will be archive of how to remove correctly.

140K AND STILL GOING STRONG. As long the service is done correctly every year no problem. Have a look at your breather filters on both rocker cover area. When I got mine before the LPG add-on I had white creamy residue in both metal filters and tubing. Soon replaced and no problem ever since. Do the usual checks if the parts original IE distributor, HT, Spark plugs, leads. If you have an amplifier attached to the original distributor maybe wise to have a spare handy.

Simple rule "IF IN DOUBT CHECK IT OUT" Always play safe when dealing moving parts.

I had a 1984 Ninety a few years back with a 2.25 na engine. Slower than custard, but solid and reliable. If your looking at 2.5 na then slightly quicker not much but reputed to be good work horse. Price depending on condition really for a general elephant head butter less than a grand. For a pampered type two maybe three grand on the over inflated price guides within landrover mags. As long as the engine is sound and the gearbox is happy then even 2.25 or 2.5 na is tough enough :rolleyes: . Most have conversion to 200 or 300 tdi due to the older engines eventually gave up head butting elephants and needed more umph. :unsure:

Likewise with my LR 110 CSW 3.5 1988 model petrol say 14-17 on LPG 13-16 But being an old type still nice to drive around and wave at fellow Defenders and Series in Manchester.

You could try Wolvine heater pad. This can be stuck on the bottom outside of the tank and plug in for a few hours. As for a coolant method you will have rig a lot of heating pipe to act as a mini radiator and waste a lot of time waiting for the engine to heat up an circulate the coolant.

Either your eating strap is poor and needs replacing. because directly connecting negative to the chassis and a positive connection should show on any test meters. 1. Test the battery first. 2. Test a simple circuit with light bulb method by connecting to earthing point on chassis then negative end of wired bulb to chassis. next attach positive wired end of bulb to positive terminal. 3. A very bright bulb will not show poor battery or weak cable join each will need checking and replacing. Hope this helps

There are some seat raisers and some that can give different angles when moving the seat fully back that might help. I have the same problem being six foot three and a bit portly since last christmas pudding.

I don't have the size sorry but according to the bible parts book. ERR4686 is the same plug used on the main radiator 300tdi next to the intercooler assembly.

Hello Fandrover. Have you ordered your new switch. If not, I did a rummage around the odd collection in the shed. And I remember I had a reverse switch from an old Land Rover 1984 which had a LT77 manual gearbox. HERE IS THE PICTURE. If you would like I could post no cost. Just email me your address. john@oakesc82.calloo.co.uk regards john

PRC2911 FOR USE BEFORE 1989 PRC8204 FOR USE AFTER 1989 So really depends on the age and like for like. The length is critical for contacts to work when selecting reverse.

May have cause a restriction after the removal and have no resistance pressure have the original prop attached . Also may have not noticed the hand brake had a sticking problem before when the action from the prop countered the retraction . Or maybe you had left a brick before when you removed the prop as a safety precaution and forgot to remove the brick :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: .

Problem you will have is contamination issues from the materials used in construction and make up. I think there are design models for expedition to africa in current land rover magazines you could try first.

Prices for a replacement Engine can vary from suppliers or sources. Have the Garage assess the problem first if unsure? Then ask after damage report to cost replacement or repair. The oil maybe leaking from the engine via the handbrake. :(

Have you bled the nipple on top of the PS Unit. Check the steering for notches and see if the rods are not damaged.

Check the condition of the tank to see if you have floating debris. As this can build up and block the narrow inlets for the pump. Also check the outlets to with a needle as they can act on restriction outflow by putting pressure on the pump.

There shouldn't be any major problem with a gauge as they're pretty robust. The only temporary suggestion is to rough guess from the fuel full and deduct an average of the MPG until past half tank. Then lift the rear wheel on fuel tank side to allow the fuel to move to the other side. Then you can remove fuel sender. Or have a few fuel containers and drain into those instead.

Sound like a fuse problem to drop all volts. Only safe way is test the tank with the meter is remove the leads connectors and test for continuity. If that okay test the power going to tank connectors for volts with the leads on and see what how much there. Check the fuse as sometimes they may not burn out completely.

How about sticking a notice in the vehicle window the front and back saying. THIS VEHICLE IS BEING MONITORED CCTV on a large card even day glow. Legality is the owning of a CCTV equipment and not advertising the fact. If the characters are of the illiterate type then have Camera and Eye symbol pictured instead. At least it may make them stop and think!

Temperature gauge sender is near the thermostat housing next to the inner left of the rocker cover when you face it. There is a wire from which you can unplug and test to see if any volt on positive. Otherwise check wiring from these diagrams below to trace problem.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :lol: :P :P :P Thank you for your kind response. Hope you have a happy time driving now. Try to have the vehicle MOT'd on petrol as this will maintain longevity of LPG. Also consider a service for the LPG if not tested when bought for reassurance later.

If your a SU Carbs or similar check the fuel pipe cutoff switch connection before the carbs whether on or off first. Then to the relay and finally on the toggle switch for PETROL NEUTRAL LPG. When you start your engine this should be on petrol first to allow the engine to warm the coolant for the LPG Then toggle NEUTRAL to drain carbs first before switching to LPG on a judder effect. If you have been running on LPG only you may have burnished the injet for idle with carbs and drained out the damper oil pots too. If EFI system or CARBS check on petrol start up the sound of the motor wirring from the tank first on ignition before starting. Have someone unfasten the fuel pipe connection to the cutoff switch and look for fuel leaking out before the carb pot on right. This will tell you if the pump is okay and feeding fuel after the switch. The fuel pump is meant to switch off when flicking over to NEUTRAL then LPG to prevent pressure on the fuel line and the CUTOFF switch via the relay. And switch back on via the relay to the CUTOFF switch for refilling the fuel on NEUTRAL AND PETROL switch over. Hope this helps 1. Which are you CARBS OR EFI 2. OPEN OR CLOSED SYSTEM 3. CHECK ON IGNITION OF PETROL PUMP SOUND FROM TANK. 4. DO YOU HAVE FUEL. 5. CHANGE FUEL FILTER IF NOT USED FOR A LONG PERIOD AS PETROL CAN DEGRADE IF NOT USED. 6. CHECK ELECTRICAL CONTACTS ON RELAY FOR PETROL SWITCH AND CUTOFF SWITCH. 7. *TRY AND START ON PETROL FIRST NEXT TIME* Sorry for shouting just a check list

Cheers good call. Will look at a replacement soon.

1988 3.5 V8 SW Need some part numbers for Rear Door heated window. Seem to variate on prices what I have looked at. Also is there any difference between 1987 and earlier and 1988 Onwards rear heated window.