[Fuel Starvation]

Possible air leak on the pipeline feeding. Also the fuel outlet could be picking up the dregs residue in the tank if low.

[td5 oil ingress under seat]

Has you engine been struggling. As the oil ingress through the ECU lead will be coming from the engine under the rocker cover. These cable end up needing replacing because the oil channels through length to the ECU plug. There will be archive of how to remove correctly.

[V8 What sort of miles will it do before its goosed]

140K AND STILL GOING STRONG. As long the service is done correctly every year no problem. Have a look at your breather filters on both rocker cover area. When I got mine before the LPG add-on I had white creamy residue in both metal filters and tubing. Soon replaced and no problem ever since. Do the usual checks if the parts original IE distributor, HT, Spark plugs, leads. If you have an amplifier attached to the original distributor maybe wise to have a spare handy.

[Not sure if I put this in?]

Not sure if I put the circular thing in behind the front timing cover? should I take it all apart again?

Thanks

Simple rule "IF IN DOUBT CHECK IT OUT" Always play safe when dealing moving parts.

[1984 110 info]

Hi

I have been looking at another Land Rover to get me about while I am doing my rebuild on the 90.

The Land Rover I am looking at is an 1984 N/A Diesel.

Can anyone tell me what they are like

Ie: what speed will they do

How unrefined are they compared to a 300tdi.

What are thy worth with new rear crossmember and good bulkhead - ball park range would be good.

Any info would be great.

I am just looking for something that will pull my Ifor Williams trailer and I can through all my stuff in.

Regards

Frax

I had a 1984 Ninety a few years back with a 2.25 na engine. Slower than custard, but solid and reliable. If your looking at 2.5 na then slightly quicker not much but reputed to be good work horse.

Price depending on condition really for a general elephant head butter less than a grand. For a pampered type two maybe three grand on the over inflated price guides within landrover mags. As long as the engine is sound and the gearbox is happy then even 2.25 or 2.5 na is tough enough :rolleyes: . Most have conversion to 200 or 300 tdi due to the older engines eventually gave up head butting elephants and needed more umph. :unsure:

[V8 110 mpg]

Likewise with my LR 110 CSW 3.5 1988 model petrol say 14-17 on LPG 13-16 But being an old type still nice to drive around and wave at fellow Defenders and Series in Manchester.

[veg oil conversion and extra tanks]

Is there anything you could run in the veg tank - like a copper pipe coil from a heater system run off of the coolant system? or is there no point since i will be running a heat exchanger on the fuel line and the return oil to the tank will hopefully quickly warm what is in there slightly?

You could try Wolvine heater pad. This can be stuck on the bottom outside of the tank and plug in for a few hours. As for a coolant method you will have rig a lot of heating pipe to act as a mini radiator and waste a lot of time waiting for the engine to heat up an circulate the coolant.

[Electrical help requiered]

I think I'm missing something here. I have a test bulb when put across battery terminals it works but when I earth to chassis I get nothing I've cleaned chassis back to shiney metal but still no light. Anybody be able to explain what I'm doing wrong. I've tried different places polished parts of chassis to make a good contact but nothing. My understanding is If I don't get a good earth from battery I won't get anything to work. Any advise will help thanks. Its on a 1988 Defender which is converted to 300TDI.

Either your eating strap is poor and needs replacing. because directly connecting negative to the chassis and a positive connection should show on any test meters.

1. Test the battery first.

2. Test a simple circuit with light bulb method by connecting to earthing point on chassis then negative end of wired bulb to chassis. next attach positive wired end of bulb to positive terminal.

3. A very bright bulb will not show poor battery or weak cable join each will need checking and replacing.

Hope this helps

[Their seems less space now]

Hi All,

It’s been a while since I have posted but with the fleeting appearance of the yellow orb I have been doing a bit on my 90 rebuild.

I have just put the new (to me) front seats in and notice that the seems less room behind the wheel even with the seat right back????

I have changed the seat box from a 200td to a 300tdi with modification to the facia but I measured and it’s the same dimensions as the old one....Are the new 05 seats thicker/deeper.

Now, I have put some weight on but surely not that much

Not a deep philosophical question I know but just wondering whether I should cut back on the pies or its the seats

There are some seat raisers and some that can give different angles when moving the seat fully back that might help. I have the same problem being six foot three and a bit portly since last christmas pudding.

[What thread size please?]

I don't have the size sorry but according to the bible parts book. ERR4686 is the same plug used on the main radiator 300tdi next to the intercooler assembly.

[LT77 reverse switch question]

Hi again

Just thought I would add a note in case anyone referred to this thread with a similar issue in the future......

The actual switch part number for mine in the photo is TKC6761 (was TKC6802)

Apparantly for use in the LT77 gearbox when fitted to TR7 and TR8's, certain MG's, Rover SDi's

You learn something everyday!

Mark

Hello Fandrover.

Have you ordered your new switch. If not, I did a rummage around the odd collection in the shed. And I remember I had a reverse switch from an old Land Rover 1984 which had a LT77 manual gearbox. HERE IS THE PICTURE. If you would like I could post no cost. Just email me your address. john@oakesc82.calloo.co.uk

regards john

[LT77 reverse switch question]

PRC2911 FOR USE BEFORE 1989

PRC8204 FOR USE AFTER 1989

So really depends on the age and like for like. The length is critical for contacts to work when selecting reverse.

[anyone explain why]

May have cause a restriction after the removal and have no resistance pressure have the original prop attached . Also may have not noticed the hand brake had a sticking problem before when the action from the prop countered the retraction . Or maybe you had left a brick before when you removed the prop as a safety precaution and forgot to remove the brick :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: .

[Side fuel tank]

Problem you will have is contamination issues from the materials used in construction and make up. I think there are design models for expedition to africa in current land rover magazines you could try first.

[Big end gone]

Prices for a replacement Engine can vary from suppliers or sources. Have the Garage assess the problem first if unsure? Then ask after damage report to cost replacement or repair. The oil maybe leaking from the engine via the handbrake. :(

[Power steering better to the right than left]

Have you bled the nipple on top of the PS Unit. Check the steering for notches and see if the rods are not damaged.

[wash / wiper problems on going..]

Check the condition of the tank to see if you have floating debris. As this can build up and block the narrow inlets for the pump. Also check the outlets to with a needle as they can act on restriction outflow by putting pressure on the pump.

[Fuel gauge reading]

Thanks for the suggestions, Oakesy. The fuse is OK - it also supplies indicators and horn, which are both working. I'll have to get the rear wheel off tomorrow to check the sender unit continuity. My right arm doesn't have enough elbows in it to get around the rear wing, chassis, and exhaust pipe, and still make two good contacts on the sender connections !

Should I have continuity across the gauge terminals when it is totally disconnected?

Mike

There shouldn't be any major problem with a gauge as they're pretty robust. The only temporary suggestion is to rough guess from the fuel full and deduct an average of the MPG until past half tank. Then lift the rear wheel on fuel tank side to allow the fuel to move to the other side. Then you can remove fuel sender. Or have a few fuel containers and drain into those instead.

[Fuel gauge reading]

As the title says. My tank was about half full, and the gauge showed its usual over-indication of Full. Then it suddenly dropped to empty and the warning light came on. Not knowing which of the Full or Empty indications was correct, I promptly refueled, and topped up with a total of 26 litres. I have a 12volt, dual battery system, and the gauge has never given any indication of problems previously.

Of course, with a full tank, I can't remove the sender unit to check that, but with the ignition ON my multi-tester indicates about 0.4 volts at the fuel gauge terminals. Is this about what it should be, please?

Also, with both the wires to the gauge disconnected there appears to be no continuity between the gauge terminals. Is this normal, or have I got a failed gauge unit, please?

Any help will be very much appreciated.

Mike

Sound like a fuse problem to drop all volts. Only safe way is test the tank with the meter is remove the leads connectors and test for continuity. If that okay test the power going to tank connectors for volts with the leads on and see what how much there. Check the fuse as sometimes they may not burn out completely.

[The Pikies are coming]

How about sticking a notice in the vehicle window the front and back saying. THIS VEHICLE IS BEING MONITORED CCTV on a large card even day glow. Legality is the owning of a CCTV equipment and not advertising the fact. If the characters are of the illiterate type then have Camera and Eye symbol pictured instead. At least it may make them stop and think!

[In Line Fuel Pump]

This is going to make me sound like a complete numpty, but where is the sender likely to be on the engine? I know a lot more about the theory of engines etc than the specific mechanical bits!

Thanks in advance!

Temperature gauge sender is near the thermostat housing next to the inner left of the rocker cover when you face it. There is a wire from which you can unplug and test to see if any volt on positive. Otherwise check wiring from these diagrams below to trace problem.

[In Line Fuel Pump]

Oakesy, you are a genius.

I am one happy man, quick fiddle with the connections on the relay and switch, then give it a go before getting my hands to dirty, and grrrr, burbles into life!

It now starts and runs in petrol, as well as switching seamlessly to gas and back again!

Thanks very much indeed!

So, onto the next problem, any ideas why my engine temperature gauge doesn't work, and just stays where it is in the ignition off position?

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :lol: :P :P :P Thank you for your kind response. Hope you have a happy time driving now. Try to have the vehicle MOT'd on petrol as this will maintain longevity of LPG. Also consider a service for the LPG if not tested when bought for reassurance later.

[In Line Fuel Pump]

If your a SU Carbs or similar check the fuel pipe cutoff switch connection before the carbs whether on or off first. Then to the relay and finally on the toggle switch for PETROL NEUTRAL LPG. When you start your engine this should be on petrol first to allow the engine to warm the coolant for the LPG Then toggle NEUTRAL to drain carbs first before switching to LPG on a judder effect. If you have been running on LPG only you may have burnished the injet for idle with carbs and drained out the damper oil pots too. If EFI system or CARBS check on petrol start up the sound of the motor wirring from the tank first on ignition before starting. Have someone unfasten the fuel pipe connection to the cutoff switch and look for fuel leaking out before the carb pot on right. This will tell you if the pump is okay and feeding fuel after the switch. The fuel pump is meant to switch off when flicking over to NEUTRAL then LPG to prevent pressure on the fuel line and the CUTOFF switch via the relay. And switch back on via the relay to the CUTOFF switch for refilling the fuel on NEUTRAL AND PETROL switch over. Hope this helps

1. Which are you CARBS OR EFI

2. OPEN OR CLOSED SYSTEM

3. CHECK ON IGNITION OF PETROL PUMP SOUND FROM TANK.

4. DO YOU HAVE FUEL.

5. CHANGE FUEL FILTER IF NOT USED FOR A LONG PERIOD AS PETROL CAN DEGRADE IF NOT USED.

6. CHECK ELECTRICAL CONTACTS ON RELAY FOR PETROL SWITCH AND CUTOFF SWITCH.

7. *TRY AND START ON PETROL FIRST NEXT TIME*

Sorry for shouting just a check list

[Rear Heated Glass.]

any heated rear window prior to the new type rear door will fit your vehicle.

See page 796, item 2 read the notes refering to glass thickness/chassis number.

Cheers good call. Will look at a replacement soon.

[Rear Heated Glass.]

1988 3.5 V8 SW Need some part numbers for Rear Door heated window. Seem to variate on prices what I have looked at.

Also is there any difference between 1987 and earlier and 1988 Onwards rear heated window.