oakesy

It depends on the condition of your door frame mainly and hinges . If old a worthwhile investment. Mine was showing signs on the frame and would needed repairs. With support plates added to the swingaway this seem to strengthen the rear and a peace of mind

When you said the filter plug is this the picture you mean. This is an image of the gearbox extenuation case. Is the clip metal or brittle. If brittle number 2 if metal could be number 15 hope this helps

So really by all account it more down to needs of seating and attraction for insurance I did manage to get insured yesterday for 8 by Sabre as my previous insurer for a while NIG decided to have a huff and walk off with the ball. Sadly being in a Manchester post code that is next to insurance no go area doesn't help either now :angry: I might as well remove the unused bench seat and nextime declare it as 5 seats only for less hassle.

1988 3.5 v8 CSW with LPG. After receiving blood letting from the insurance company yesterday. A question raised from the amount of seats current. Being registered on the V5c as 9 seat since lpg conversion. 1. Would removing my remaining unused bench seat and centre seat become an advantage for insurance purpose. 2. This would leave the amount to 5 seats for reregistering. 3. Would still be attractive or unattractive when selling later or part exchanging.

Well, just had my insurance done. Gone from £371 last to £694. :angry: All because where I live, namely Manchester hotspot for crime. :ph34r: Being unemployed or retired becomes a crime :o having a vehicle over 8 seat is a crime namely 1988 Land rover 110 petrol 3.5 v8 with lpg So anybody living or driving over or under 50 with a land rover 110csw in machester your have been warned. MOVE So can anybody recommend a reasonable area to live in England On another note insurance seem to get nervous now with the amount seats you vehicle have. Would removing my bench seat (3 seater) and centre seat and register as 5 seat o the V5c help later for insurance and saleability?

If you can see the gauges and they look empty. Try and unscrew slightly if similar to my pictures two retaining screws so that the dial or display can move to left or right. You may need to keep the engine running on gas for the display to constantly read and have someone call the increments level rising. When you filled up last did you stop when full or before. As if you can adjust the dial then set for 3/4.

Follow the gas lines to the tank or electric cable. This mine on my single tank on the inside. The last one has a adjustable display.

Check fuel first if having problem originally. Also the ECU plug for oil contamination if oil the harness will need replacing.

Engine type first petrol 2.5 v8 carb or efi. Diesel 2.5 td tdi 200 300 td5 etc. would help. Check earthing connections for intermittent fuel pump. If Carbs the idle flow is blocked or poor.

Have a look at the lpg tank. There should be a secondary display level that will need adjusting when your tank was filled. Some need twisting to the left. Second have your petrol checked when you bought it, was it nearly dry the tank As the fuel could have degraded without constant use. it needs to run on petrol first to allow the lpg to warm up .

I don't know if this will help. the pdf below show the wiring circuits for each 2.5 petrol diesel and v8 for 110 on a 1988

May-be-me. But during this information video the bulkhead captive nuts are never described in removal and replacements. Are they straight forward as they appear being like for like in new for new or old for new. Please feel free to give me a good kicking.

May have run over a clown goose. Very brightly coloured. :lol: Best way of checking for wheel bearings is at slow speed on sharper cornering either reversing or normal turning. Also a shock absorber may have given up. Even new ones can fail.

surface rust and residue of condensation may have created a bind. So as you came to release it was still technically on but without the restriction. Was the noise from the rear or the next to you. As the rear could have locked with the weather conditions and lack of use. Similar as the handbrake near will cause binding if not used. Test to see if there irregular braking patterns when in use either tugging on left or right.

Best change your filter first as will retain some trace element. Some start with 10-90 depending on the condition of the climate and age of the vehicle. And later increase for warmer weather. The problem may have been the mixture separation in the tank. Where you will have had mild amount of diesel already in flow and sitting at the bottom of the tank. Then adding the large amount of alternative causing an imbalance being cold like waxing. First Drain then replace filter next replace with clean diesel to allow flush to take place through the engine. Some will say replace the filter again as a backup. You can still use the waste from the drain but in smaller amounts but be wary of the need for more filters handy if increasing on alternative fuels. As far as I am aware quite a few petrol station have diesel bio fuel mix at 5-95. Lucky for me I have petrol and lpg :P :D :lol: :rolleyes:

Is this the return pipe to the tank thats leaking? Not to sure soap will work on diesel more petrol. Maybe sealant or previously mentioned tape. As for it condition best place an order for fuel line pickup. If can clean the pipeline to the tank with soapy liquid to find where the leak is. If at the base then you will have to seal with some anti corrosive sealant putty type or metal base. If halfway on the metal pipe you could get away with moving the connecting tube further down if possible. That if it the return pipe. May not be much help.

Your plastic cover around the steering column. You should be able to remove the top piece from the screws below. Look at the switch for main beam while switched off. Then move the light stalk forward and fully back. Have a look at the wiring on the fully forward to see if loose or damaged. It may need soldering. If still sound you can test to see if any electrics by a tester route or two wire attached to a spare car bulb. You will need to turn on the electrics for all light to work to test. These two diagrams will help in locating most electrical problem wiring. Hope this helps

There maybe a problem with contacts forward. You will need to test by removing the shroud and check the contacts there. Otherwise have chat with MOT centre before if this would be classed as a failure as some can be generous or other can be a piggy.

To tell if this is powersteering fluid dripping wipe over with a fresh tissue then look at the colour. A reddish hue will be power steering. Either the steering box itself or from the reservoir container hoses to the steering box. It has a distinctive smell as does brake fluid as this will be a clearer colour. Hope this helps

Mine started sagging so I removed one side on my 1988 110 v8 bonnet. While mulling over a replacement, my visit to Tesco one day had my eye drawn to a reflective backed camp bed roll £5.00. So out of curiosity and avid experimenter like most fellow Land Rover drivers. I fashioned a half bonnet shape to fix I used the carpet spray glue. Thinking this will suffer the same fate I have been keeping an watchful eye with luck no major problem at all. As my bonnet is a different from newer versions I split my padding in two to prevent weight and heat affecting the glue and material.

The steering damper when fails is the same as the ordinary shock absorbers failing. Also the inner seals can damage and release the oils. Did you notice steering problem before changing drop arm. Such as vibration after a bump. If your not happy with the looks and age simpler to replace for a newer.

100 POUND A DAY. Can someone pick up my lower jaw from the floor. :blink: :blink: Sorry to hear that on Londonstan ouch. Seeing here in Manchester and having a council that doesn't have braincells. Will probably see this as a good thing :angry: :angry: Typical Labour vomit idealism.

Must admit i have been toying with idea of attaching a heater pad to my radiator on my v8 3.5. Currently I use one on the oil sump for a couple of hours before moving. This I only used for the winter though. But on the idea for the radiator with a heater pad. Will this act like the bottom inline hose heater setup. Or need a better solution. I like the idea of Kenlowes version. except for the price. as the same with the webasto and eshpacher. Bit fascinated also why the products for heating over in usa an canada not hit over this market such as the inline hose heater and the power blanket engine warmer.

2011 The year of new happiness for everyone. :blink: :blink: :blink: Oh what did I drink.