oakesy

Possible build up of condensation being channelled towards the door. I have a similar problem come winter time. Don't forget the headliner could act as trapping the atmosphere. Countless time I leave the wagon looking like I've wet myself. Someone mention to seal the vent flaps during winter time to prevent ingress. Which I have done with bathroom sealant As for my roof lining, I will look at my piggy bank

Check first though to confirm on the crescent shape winder mechanism a row of teeth which gradually fades on the last quarter section. They fairly easy to replace whole mechanism and cheap too.

Either the teeth are worn or the channels for the glass isn't seating correctly. A good way of telling the teeth are gone is the winder allows the glass to slip.

Simple method is to use a door wedge or a thick pen to act as a wedge. Then try to jam under the front of the bonnet and pull the release lever. This has helped on more occasions

Check the rear panel metal support strut behind the rear wheel. Mine snapped off a few times giving me the where the heck that noise coming from.

Manage to replace the oil pressure switch from underneath. Tricky little mite though. The socket size was different on the original 22. While the new one is 24. In the end I used a medium adjustable spanner. Just got a small amount of oil loss and tried the ignition and success. :P

Hello Western. They have all been NLA or replaced with this code STC4104. This is the one I have just purchased. Just need to know the best way of replacing as access is minimal.

How easy to replace the Oil Pressure Switch on LandRover 1988 V8 3.5 and what size socket needed. It just that the access seems awkward to negate. I have tested the wire and there is a good connection as so is the bulb for oil light. But as soon I flick the ignition on no oil light. Some pictures may help a little.

Like a lot of mechanical problems develop when you replace old for new. Mostly the engine like a women needs coaxing . Never trust a new piece to work straight out the box, somewhere down the line another item will complain :lol: :lol: :P :P .

Check your carbs setting on idle. 1. the linkage maybe to slack. 2. the idle screw needs resetting. 3. Dirty Filters. 4. dirty fuel.

Don't forget that the insurance records the original model and details are recorded as a CSW. Even if you go to other insurances their record shows only CSW/Engine/Age. As your modification will ring alarm bells for alteration and risk in security this will show on the premium. Also inform DVLA of modification.

Check your volts first to see if there is too much . A relay only works with switches. To blow bulbs or melt wires are by low watt usage or low grade wires. If anything the fuse should blow first before the bulb.

my old speakers in the dash were 4 inch type 4watt 8 ohm also check that the newer ones will have the same thin or flatter cones because the front wiper motor will prevent anything larger. 1988 v8 lr110

The lens will be hot because it will increase the light and heat created. As for the duration of the bulb could be greasy fingers dodgy bulb bad earthing or to much power for the element.

try rimmer bros or p a blanchard which is nearer to you.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56521 there is also another thread discussing a similar topic for your information.

There are few good makers I use the Bigas on my 3.5 v8 but have the tank on the inside. As for the 90 I would inquire for the torpedo types and obtain a smaller petrol tank. . Best chat with a local installer for specs and certification as there are new rules come out on the lpg fitment.

If the steering damper is original the check for signs of leakage. Also the shimmer effect might down too the steering box needing adjusting. Better advisor will come along shortly.

Landmannn I am in North Manchester. Does the Range Rover Handle have to be specific IE classic or later model okay. Also where is the best supplier to go for.

Good then I will look into my moneybox and order a range rover handbrake soon.

:D I like that. Would there be any restriction if I moved my original handbrake to the ones pictured in the modification. Or does it necessary need to be a Range Rover / Disco for cosmetic appeal.

Land Rover 110 1988 3.5 v8 Odd question or maybe a lightbulb moment for some budding inventor . I have a problem being tall 6'3" to be precise with the Handbrake digging or restricting my limited comfort. Has there been any improvement with later models also is there a way of modifying my original setup for better comfort.

If it the bust lock type then find a pin hole and use a fine drill or hammer a nail to release the locking pin. Newer types push button there is a screw at the back of the lock. remove door card and look at the levers connecting to the lock and you will see the screw and lever. release that and the lock will loose enough to take out.

sticking brake shoes or springs on brake area faulty or disc warped.

AFT or GTX2 for Gearbox EP90 for Transmission. Someone soon clarify or bunk.