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Andrew Chua

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About Andrew Chua

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  1. It depends. The TdCi is quieter vs the td5. Has a 6th gear and geared better on the highway. The TdCi engine bay is more tight, so working on stuff is a lil harder for some. Td5, I'd say is a good reliable engine if treated right. I've done over 230k on my engine n it still pulls well. First clutch n flywheel too. TdCi is more rev happy, so you need to put your foot down to get things moving. (2.2l) Looks, some prefer the "power bulge" while other prefer it flat. Td5, easier to remap, even on your own! Easier to decat, lesser emission control and sensors.
  2. Mine always sit off to the left, not Center. In the past 10yrs I've had it, it was always like that. I've a nanocom and it read between 31 on startup to 90 on a hard run. If left sitting, will read 88.2. It sits at that off center position from 76 to 90.
  3. You mean the back up sounder? It could be a loose cable. There's always supposed to be a 12v supply to it from the 10as. When the permanent 12v is withdrawn, the bbus thinks the main battery is disconnected and will sound.
  4. Cool. I'm glad you got it sorted! Sometimes the simplest things do get us. The joy of land rover ownership.
  5. When you change the batteries in the fob, you will need to resync the fob to the alarm. In the 10as unit there is a number of time an "invalid" fob signal can be received before the alarm triggers. Usually the number is 5. I have mine at 3. An invalid fob signal is known as the correct fob 4part number but the wrong rolling code. Looks like now both the fobs are off sync. You will need to use the EKA to start the engine at least once. The open door, turn key in ignition precedure, to enter the 4 digit number. Once you have done this and then turned off the engine, you can now resync the fob
  6. If it has always worked, then the fob battery is the first choice. Did you use the fob to unlock the doors? If you didn't is there the red light on the speedo flashing or solid on? Usually if the 10as is in passive immob, the horn will sound twice if it can't poll the fob for the rolling code alongside the 4 part key number of the fob. The engine with lightning sign will also flash on the instrument cluster. If you didn't disarm the alarm n open the doors the alarm would have sounded even b4 you started the engine. You can try to resync the plip to the 10as by closing the doors, pressing
  7. I had this leak when I fitted an oe pump. It seems like the o rings don't fit very tightly even though they look the same. My fuel line even fell off before. So after that incident, swapped the o rings n it never leaked. But now the pump is noisy again after 2 yrs.
  8. The top of the cooling tank venting and the temp gauge at the cold position suggests that you have a coolant flow issue. The gauge at cold would mean that there's no coolant at the point of the temp sensor to measure, so it's cold. The top of the plastic venting suggests that the pressure in the system is higher that normal. It could be the head or simply cos the coolant is not circulating. If the coolant is not moving, that means its the water pump. You can test this by opening the resivour cap, filling it up with water and then floor the gas, it should sent coolant out of the opening,
  9. Had some water in the t box before after wading when it happened before so it flickers The other time I encountered this was when the switch contact was a lil wonky. Nothing serious, it just scared me a lil driving a few hundred km with the diff lock light dimly lit and flickering,
  10. just a quick note, if it's a 1.410 T-box, a direct wiring to the ECU will work well, with the cruise control enabled. If you have a 1.222 box, you need some electrical bits to trick the ecu to the number of pulses to that of the rpm.
  11. yes, it has to be sliding piece outside. if not wind and water gets pushed in when driving forward. unless maybe the previous owner spent more time driving in reverse. Release clips are on the top. Done correctly, when you open the rear sliding windows and front windows on a 90, the air comes in thru the front and goes out the rear window, not ruffling your feathers.
  12. worn bearings and differential. i've had this on my box before and i swapped it out for a 'new' box. dismantled the old box and all the bearings were worn, the teeth were worn (as the bearings were worn and allowed too much play). so it's a box out job. depending on the state of the teeth, you might be better off with a new box. a worn diff is pretty easy to detect, as when driving hit the brakes repeatedly in neutral, you do hear a 'clack' sound as the diff takes up the slack. if you have the ears for it, you can try rolling down a hill, in neutral and engine off, you can hear the diff click
  13. if the vehicle is immob, but alarm is not armed, you would still be able to stick a nanocom to the OBD and read the EKA from it. As in passive immob. Yes, i've done this before on mine. If the vehicle was armed and you simple opened the door with the key and trigger the alarm, then it would not be so simple. You will need the EKA. You can try to resync the fob by pressing lock button 4 times and then unlock button and see if it will budge.
  14. In the land of the most expensive defenders on planet earth, i've opted to use this http://www.blackvue.com.sg/hd-dr380.html It's not the cheapest thing out in the market, but it provides decent recordings. It has a park mode, so it just sits there recording to RAM until the gyro encounters a trigger (impact), it then writes the previous 30sec and after 30sec to the card. that should be enough to get the guy that backed into your car. Has GPS co-ord, time stamp, speed traveled all recorded on the video. uses a 16GB microSD card.
  15. Just to update this post : I've bought the CDL relay which fits in the 10AS at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170203883941?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Soldered the relay and tapped out pin 2 and 3 to the lock motors. This will now use the relay on the PCB to drive the motors. Now i have a proper 10AS without the need for an external CDL controller box as stated above. It works like a treat. Land Rover saved $2 by not soldering this relay on the non-alarm models. I've added the transponder coil so that it can 'sense' the plip and mobilise itself (when it passively immo
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