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RichardAllen

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    Near Cheltenham
  1. Thanks Mike I looked at a remote filter head from Demon Tweaks etc with no clear solution and vaguely recall you mentioning it on a thread some years ago that you had looked into it but not found a satisfactory solution, but without specifics. I suspected the problem might be a good remote position while still preventing airlocks. (Often easier on a race car with a dry sump system). Like you it has always been tomorrow's job with the associated risk of severe engine damage if you get it wrong. Back to the loosening, we do filters often enough that we should be able to trust ourselves to put them on tight. After all there would never be a reason to lkeave one loose, and this cold weather thing does seem more bthan a coincidence. And no more black snow in the drive - though plenty more white - yippee. Regards Richard
  2. If you check a part out on lrdirect.com, you can see their price difference between Britpart, other makers and genuine, so it is a little easier to work oiut how much extra you are paying for a part. I have not had a Bearmach part fail to fit, or fail early. Two shameless plugs there, no connection with either apart from being a satisfied customer. Richard PS You can usually avoid Britpart by calling the guys at Brit-Car if you specify non-BP.
  3. In the cold weather in Jan 2011 I noticed an oil leak which was worse than usual and tracked it down to the oil filter which had come quite loose and was dripping a drop of oil every 5 yards or so - not far off coming off completely, with the predictable unwelcome consequences. I have since kept an eye open for this problem, and it has not recurred, but we had little cold weather last winter. This evening my better half mentioned a patch of black snow where the Landy had been, and sure enough the oil filter had loosened about 10th turn. I have always used LR or good aftermarket filters, smeared the rubber washer with oil before fitting and done them up by hand as tight as I could from underneath (getting a strap wrench in on a Def 90 300TDI is a pain). And two filters a year in normal weather - no problem. However, very cold UK weather (down to -10degC) and then a warm engine does seem to cause them to come loose. On the race cars, we lockwire oil filters on because of the vibration, but that is not so easy on a 300TDi. Has anyone seen this before or is it just me ? If so is there a simple solution this side of lockwire, or crawling underneath in the snow and checking ? Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere. Regards Richard
  4. Has anyone had a go with the ground anchor Faltdog have for £50 or so ? It looks similar to the ex-army ones but scaled down. Afer all I only want to recover a Landy, not a Challenger, so maybe it would do. I only have in mind rairly mild laning, not winching trials or anything. Regards Richard
  5. While changing a clutch slave cylinder, I stupidly pulled the pushrod and clip (Part No FTC2957) out of the clutch arm, could not get the clip back in, broke it and have no spare. I have fitted the pushrod and new cylinder without the clip and need to drive the truck for a few days before I can get a new clip and fit it. I am concerned that the pushrod might become dislodged and break things up inside the bellhousing. On the other hand the rod seems well squeezed in between the cylinder and clutch arm, so maybe the clip is only really needed if driving corrugated African tracks. Has anyone done a few miles without this clip on UK roads, or should I not drive at all until I have fited a replacement ? All help gratefully received as always. Regards Richard
  6. On the way home tonight, exiting a large roundabout in North Bristol near a business park, I noticed a lady trying with little success to push her Peugeot estate to the side of the road. So I drove onto the verge, got out and pushed her car to a fairly safe place. Her car had "gone bang and would not start". We quickly decided that South Wales was a bit out of my way for a tow and she was not in the AA/RAC. So I lent her my AA card, she rang up, joined over the phone and the van was on its way. Damsel de-distressed in 5 minutes. Hopefully by now she and the poorly car are home. And I have done my good deed for the day and feel disgracefully smug. Richard
  7. All else being equal, the extra cost for Zeiss etc gets you somewhat better clarity and much better use in very low light. I have Zeiss binoculars and a Swarovski scope on my rifle (both second hand from a dealer) and often shoot rabbits at dusk that I cannot see with the naked eye. Since these items are well over a grand apiece new, they are not worth the money unless very clear long range and low light performance is what you need. From years ago I also have a small armoured pair of Minolta binoculars that fits in a pocket for walking and watching the odd bird, and they were 80 quid or so, and are child-proof. Richard
  8. Following TheRecklessEngineer's link above, I propose to send the following letter in the morning, to: Mineral Oil Reliefs Centre (MORC) Building 4, BP4002 Benton Park View Longbenton Newcastle upon Tyne NE98 1ZZ Dear Sir, Following the Prime Minister’s advice to make contingency plans in case of a tanker drivers’ strike, I wish to apply for a licence to use domestic heating oil in my Land Rover during any period of fuel unavailability. I therefore include the following information as requested on your website: where the oil is stored (if not at the address shown on your letter) - above home address what uses you intend making of the oil – commuting and social/domestic travel why you cannot use fully duty paid fuel and must use rebated heavy oil – fuel unavailable leading up to and during periods of strike action what sort of rebated heavy oil you intend to use as fuel – domestic central heating oil roughly how much you intend to use each year and when you will start – up to 100 litres per week of strike action, to start in the period before any strike to allow for fuel scarcity due to panic buying etc, annual usage will therefore depend on the frequency and length of strike action whether you are likely to use any rebated heavy oil for purposes other than as fuel, and without payment of rebate - no the price you are currently paying (including Excise duty) per litre of rebated heavy oil – 59.6p per litre +VAT Regards Richard Allen What do you guys think of it ? Any chance of success ? Richard
  9. Nick Your email link: **/@ers does not seem to work ! Richard
  10. The prime minister recommends making sensible contingency plans in case there is a tanker drivers' strike. I have just filled up our house central heating oil tank with 1000l of heating oil. With Summer coming on it won't be used quickly in the house. As a strike contingency plan can I run a 300TDi off this stuff ? I assume it is illegal. Regards Richard
  11. Western, Thanks. Is the glowplug thread on a 300TDi a standard size that most diesel test kits can use ? Regards Richard
  12. I am looking for a compression tetser for a 300TDi engine. I will only do this test on occasion and only on a 300TDi engine, so I want a simple cheap kit. Anyone got a good recommendation for what kit I need and where to buy it at a good price ? Likewise, hints and tips for doing the test would be very welcome too. Apologies if this is already on here somewhere, but I could not find it. Regards Richard
  13. Thanks for all the help. My 90 is my only drive, so i don't have the luxury of getting it tested. From the symptoms and all the advice on here, I can only conclude that my head has a crack in it somewhere. So I have gone for a replacement head and gasket from Turner's. In slower time I'll get the old head tested. Major points noted around making sure everything is clean and tidy, bolts holes cleaned/reamed, oil changed and proper coolant ratio used, and torquing sequence. As always the advice on here is comprehensive and authoritative. Many thanks, I'll let you all know if the new head fixes the problem. Richard
  14. I had a brief overheat which may have been due to some coolant freezing in the recent weather and blocking / jamming the thermostat. I had a feeling the coolant was a bit under-spec. After I stopped it cleared very quickly and all returned to normal. Keeping an eye on the coolant level I noticed that it started to drop, so I kept it topped up over a few days, but noticed a lot more steam on starting which then stopped when the engine warmed up. Suspecting a small head gasket leak, I ordered a new one. However, on one occasion the engine faltered on starting as if there was a cylinder full of water. Worrying. When I took the head off the bolts were about equal torque, no really stiff ones. There was no obvious damage to the old gasket, the head seems straight (but I have not put a proper straightedge on it yet), and there were no obvious cracks. The head is a relatively new Turner one (<30,000 miles) so where was all the water coming from ? I put a new head gasket on and ran it up briefly yesterday. However, it was getting dark. This morning, I could not get the engine to turn over. I pulled the injectors and #4 injector was clearly wet. When i turned the engine over, water sprayed out of #4. This afternoon I took the head off and again no obvious damage, though #4 was full of water. The only thing I can think of is that the head did not seat on the dowels properly. So I plan to refit the head tomorrow making sure the dowels fit properly. However, might there be some not-so-obvious frost damage some where ? All ideas very welcome. Regards Richard
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