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About RichardAllen

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Near Cheltenham
  1. Thanks Mike I looked at a remote filter head from Demon Tweaks etc with no clear solution and vaguely recall you mentioning it on a thread some years ago that you had looked into it but not found a satisfactory solution, but without specifics. I suspected the problem might be a good remote position while still preventing airlocks. (Often easier on a race car with a dry sump system). Like you it has always been tomorrow's job with the associated risk of severe engine damage if you get it wrong. Back to the loosening, we do filters often enough that we should be able to trust ourselves to pu
  2. If you check a part out on lrdirect.com, you can see their price difference between Britpart, other makers and genuine, so it is a little easier to work oiut how much extra you are paying for a part. I have not had a Bearmach part fail to fit, or fail early. Two shameless plugs there, no connection with either apart from being a satisfied customer. Richard PS You can usually avoid Britpart by calling the guys at Brit-Car if you specify non-BP.
  3. In the cold weather in Jan 2011 I noticed an oil leak which was worse than usual and tracked it down to the oil filter which had come quite loose and was dripping a drop of oil every 5 yards or so - not far off coming off completely, with the predictable unwelcome consequences. I have since kept an eye open for this problem, and it has not recurred, but we had little cold weather last winter. This evening my better half mentioned a patch of black snow where the Landy had been, and sure enough the oil filter had loosened about 10th turn. I have always used LR or good aftermarket filters, sme
  4. Has anyone had a go with the ground anchor Faltdog have for £50 or so ? It looks similar to the ex-army ones but scaled down. Afer all I only want to recover a Landy, not a Challenger, so maybe it would do. I only have in mind rairly mild laning, not winching trials or anything. Regards Richard
  5. While changing a clutch slave cylinder, I stupidly pulled the pushrod and clip (Part No FTC2957) out of the clutch arm, could not get the clip back in, broke it and have no spare. I have fitted the pushrod and new cylinder without the clip and need to drive the truck for a few days before I can get a new clip and fit it. I am concerned that the pushrod might become dislodged and break things up inside the bellhousing. On the other hand the rod seems well squeezed in between the cylinder and clutch arm, so maybe the clip is only really needed if driving corrugated African tracks. Has anyone
  6. On the way home tonight, exiting a large roundabout in North Bristol near a business park, I noticed a lady trying with little success to push her Peugeot estate to the side of the road. So I drove onto the verge, got out and pushed her car to a fairly safe place. Her car had "gone bang and would not start". We quickly decided that South Wales was a bit out of my way for a tow and she was not in the AA/RAC. So I lent her my AA card, she rang up, joined over the phone and the van was on its way. Damsel de-distressed in 5 minutes. Hopefully by now she and the poorly car are home. And I h
  7. All else being equal, the extra cost for Zeiss etc gets you somewhat better clarity and much better use in very low light. I have Zeiss binoculars and a Swarovski scope on my rifle (both second hand from a dealer) and often shoot rabbits at dusk that I cannot see with the naked eye. Since these items are well over a grand apiece new, they are not worth the money unless very clear long range and low light performance is what you need. From years ago I also have a small armoured pair of Minolta binoculars that fits in a pocket for walking and watching the odd bird, and they were 80 quid or so
  8. Following TheRecklessEngineer's link above, I propose to send the following letter in the morning, to: Mineral Oil Reliefs Centre (MORC) Building 4, BP4002 Benton Park View Longbenton Newcastle upon Tyne NE98 1ZZ Dear Sir, Following the Prime Minister’s advice to make contingency plans in case of a tanker drivers’ strike, I wish to apply for a licence to use domestic heating oil in my Land Rover during any period of fuel unavailability. I therefore include the following information as requested on your website: where the oil is stored (if not at the address shown on your letter) -
  9. Nick Your email link: **/@ers does not seem to work ! Richard
  10. The prime minister recommends making sensible contingency plans in case there is a tanker drivers' strike. I have just filled up our house central heating oil tank with 1000l of heating oil. With Summer coming on it won't be used quickly in the house. As a strike contingency plan can I run a 300TDi off this stuff ? I assume it is illegal. Regards Richard
  11. Western, Thanks. Is the glowplug thread on a 300TDi a standard size that most diesel test kits can use ? Regards Richard
  12. I am looking for a compression tetser for a 300TDi engine. I will only do this test on occasion and only on a 300TDi engine, so I want a simple cheap kit. Anyone got a good recommendation for what kit I need and where to buy it at a good price ? Likewise, hints and tips for doing the test would be very welcome too. Apologies if this is already on here somewhere, but I could not find it. Regards Richard
  13. Thanks for all the help. My 90 is my only drive, so i don't have the luxury of getting it tested. From the symptoms and all the advice on here, I can only conclude that my head has a crack in it somewhere. So I have gone for a replacement head and gasket from Turner's. In slower time I'll get the old head tested. Major points noted around making sure everything is clean and tidy, bolts holes cleaned/reamed, oil changed and proper coolant ratio used, and torquing sequence. As always the advice on here is comprehensive and authoritative. Many thanks, I'll let you all know if the new head
  14. I had a brief overheat which may have been due to some coolant freezing in the recent weather and blocking / jamming the thermostat. I had a feeling the coolant was a bit under-spec. After I stopped it cleared very quickly and all returned to normal. Keeping an eye on the coolant level I noticed that it started to drop, so I kept it topped up over a few days, but noticed a lot more steam on starting which then stopped when the engine warmed up. Suspecting a small head gasket leak, I ordered a new one. However, on one occasion the engine faltered on starting as if there was a cylinder full
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