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ajh last won the day on July 10 2014

ajh had the most liked content!

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About ajh

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

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  • Interests
    Expedition travel of all kinds, vehicle based, mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry exploration in general. I also teach rock and ice climbing in my "spare" time, do a little off-roading, and mostly work in the shop coming up with nutty inventions and improvements to things along the way.

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  1. Anyone done a refinishing on the 300 (or 200) rubber acoustic engine cover? I am thinking plastidip spray might work but hearing of others experience before I commit to anything would be great.
  2. I'm pretty sure I figured it out. V8 manual Disco are rarer here than forward control FFRs, (I know of 2 or 3), it turns out the previous owner didn't know the fork required a retention clip (571163) so it was held in place only by the plastic cup and hope... Something must have shifted allowing the behaviour, but I still can't really figure out what was actually happening... it's mostly back together now and seems to be working. if it happens again I'm boring a scope port and figuring out exactly what's going on. Thanks for all the input/ideas.
  3. So, the only thing I can come up with is a stuck release bearing that came loose during dismantle and therefore looks fine now.
  4. I thought of that, and will try with more force in the morning, it just looks perfect and springs back as expected... No clue how it would do that, also... That would not explain the slack pushrod.
  5. I have just found the strangest problem I've ever run into. Vehicle is a D1 that was a V8 converted to a 200TDI mated to an R380 and LT230. It was working fine; then one day when the clutch was depressed there was a sound like a spring being released from pressure. This resulted in loss of all drive. I removed the slave cylinder and the pushrod moved freely as if there was no clutch present at all. Normally you'd thing something like the centre has torn out of the friction plate or the basket has failed... not needing it right away it sat for a while and I finally got around to opening it up today and nothing.. every single part of the clutch looks perfectly good. The entire setup probably has fewer than 10,000km on it, so it should look like new and it does. The friction plate is fine, the shock springs are good... the clutch basket fingers have slight wear but nothing that would explain a failure... and the only possible failure mode I can come up with is the clutch basket somehow getting 'stuck in the released position, but I'm not sure I've ever heard of that happening with this design. The transmission input shaft when turned manually results in movement at the LT230 output flanges, so that seems good. The only different thing is this has a cast clutch fork and the slipper pad area does seem to be a slightly different size than the pressed fork type... I can only imagine the issue was somehow related to this... does anyone know if I can just swap in a standard pressed fork instead with the removable slipper pads (I would need to replace the pushrod with one without the pin on the round end or at least grind it off, but is there anything else to consider when doing this? Ideas?
  6. Does anyone know of a repository of DXF files of common and easy to make parts? Right now I'm looking for 300TDI 110 CSW floor panels, if I don't find one I'll setup a git repository to allow others to check out and modify them to need and re-submit so others can use the same. Over here in Canada things like floor panels regardless of what they cost to purchase, cost hundreds to ship... cutting the same locally is under half the cost even on a one-off, when doing many it gets pretty cheap.
  7. That is one of my options as mentioned, however that also makes getting TC/DOT approval something I need to think about. and if my plan is low volume that may not be a reasonable approach. Having hubs I can just put onto an existing axle probably doesn't help much, except if they already have type approval there/CE it would probably moot the issue in the end. This and the desire to only have to ship the hubs; whole axles would be expensive, hubs alone not too bad if I include them in my sea LCL shipments.
  8. In the long run I would machine flanges that match the Rover axle end and just use stubs and hubs on a 3" axle tube. As long as I am doing one-offs and they are registered as homebuilt no big deal, but if I want to do many then I need something I can get approved, and Spacers will not do.
  9. Fired them off an email, hopefully theirs are both compatible with the axle stubs here and ot excessively expensive.
  10. No idea, they are not sold here. Sankey are for sure but I want freewheeling hubs, not braked.
  11. Does anyone know where I can get trailer hubs in 5 on 6.5 (Defender/RRC/D1) bolt pattern? Hopefully later I will also need the new D2 pattern if that is out there. I would prefer not to have to ship entire axle assemblies if I can get hubs that will fit to the axles available locally. My other option is to fabricate new ones with flanges that will allow the use of LR stubs and hubs, but that isn't ideal at this point. Thanks for any information.
  12. ajh

    Rear Panels

    Upon second inspection, it looks like the change is actually on the inboard side of the panel and will just force a bit of trimming.
  13. ajh

    Rear Panels

    Did the Defender rear tub change shape at some point? I have a set of replacement rear panels sold by a well known aftermarket company and they really don't fit, they're not long enough and the curve of the side panel is entirely in the wrong place. The vehicle in question is a 1999 300TDI 90.
  14. One question though. Always used polys in the past.. with using the oe style one side of the tube sticks out more than the other, is this the inboard or outboard side? I assume inboard to allow more flex, but welcome correction.
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