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This one is threaded onto the banjo; I guess I'll have to find some time next week to pull it all apart again and check over every fitting to figure out where the leak is happening.

Mine went back on the road 3 years ago; so only a bit longer but I fitted the Performance Polybushes; I'm leaning more towards something softer this time though with the end goal being disconnectable HD swaybars and medium springs for a better ride.

In that case I likely need to replace the line? any idea on the part number for the LHD version of that one; my catalog doesn't show that variety of steering pump.

They LOOK ok; but I've just hit 100K KM since the rebuild so I'm considering just changing all the bushes / TRE / Joints just to keep things in shape anyway.

After some off-roading a couple weeks ago I developed a couple clunks that have been interesting to try to track down. When I turn left around a 90 degree at any speed I get a clunk in the rear but it doesn't seem to happen when turn right. I don't feel any play in the A-frame ball-joint but is there a chance they get damaged due to off-road articulation with a 2" lift?

Is there an easy to replace o-ring between the PS line and the banjo bolt on the PS pump? I replaced the two bonded washers but there is still leaking at higher pressures from that area but I'm in a situation where taking it off to check is a bit of a problem as I depend on the same vehicle to go pick up the replacement.

Subsequent searches (not using microcat) show it as RTC5675 but no indication as to size. I'll have to source it at a hydraulics place in town; which means driving there so knowing the size in advance would be helpful since I'll have to remove it in the parking lot; and if they don't have one it's 2h of driving plus a refill of the reservoir.

I have a 200TDI and the high-pressure line attaches to the rear of the steering pump with a banjo bolt which the line then connects to. The banjo is sealed to the pump using two steel/rubber hydraulic sealing washers. Does anyone know the size/part number of these?

I'll spray them with something; but they're <2y old and only have about 100K KM on them.

Could someone confirm the part numbers for rear rotors and pads for an ex-MOD salisbury equipped 110 please?

Can anyone outline the early symptoms of PS pump wear? Having some odd 'feeling' and need to figure it out.

I'm looking for ideas on how to best free up the ends of the PS lines where they go into the steering box so they'll turn freely on the pipes. I've put on some oil and I'm waiting; but any other ideas? It's almost as if having a non-leaking system leads to more problems like this; if it was leaking then the fittings would be nice and lubricated already. Odd how many places I'm running into this.

I have several Series III style half-door vehicles with the lower sill with the outward facing lip to get properly sealed up and I'm looking for suggestions. The owner is a bit anxious since we spent several hours cleaning mud out of his vehicle on Sunday after a little mud-hole incident.

OK, so I'm going to swap in the Meridian re-man I have here and send this one back for re-man then... losing steering bad.

On my 110 with a 4-bolt Adwest box (95K KM on it from new) while offroading yesterday I had something happen that I have suspicions about but seem confirmation from you guys.... When I got off trail my steering wheel was 90 degrees to the left of centre; everything else seemed good, no bent rods, no tre damage, shafts/u-joints are tight and it drives like it was just aligned yesterday. The one odd thing is that when you turn the wheel; part way to the left there's a place where you feel a notchy feeling and then it turns a degree or two without moving the drop-arm. My guess is that the recirculating balls have somehow gained a gap between them.... I'm no steering box expert so I'm wondering, is this possible? Does it sound like some other; repairable, problem? Open to any and all ideas because I'm out of them!

You should also put one of the paint style in-line filters right before your air chuck to ensure no oil gets through. If you're running tools etc then you don't need that since they want oil. One little bit of security and if you fit them with either quick disconnect or the press-fit fittings they're easy to change over.

The only new vehicles with issues are those with DPF regen cycles; particularly those that inject into the cylinder vs into the exhaust directly. If it will run 20% it will run 100%; if it says 5% only then you need to make sure. On many a DPF delete is the way to go. I produce about 1000L/week of B100 here.

Agreed 100%, I just put in an ISIS system on a 110 that was wired with about 10 additional accessories as well... it was; interesting.

Ah, so step 1 is 'torque down'. Thanks.

I have a 200TDI here that appears to be leaking oil at the front cam follower retention bolt just behind the timing chest. What's the recommended way to seal these; and can they just be removed with everything in place?

If you use it on the roof you can then apply a moisture barrier over-top; a 1/8" adhesive neoprene is nice. Open cell has uses but it needs a barrier layer (ideally in the centre between two layers of open) to provide the 'bounce' needed to reflect sound back into the damping material. Some use a lead divider; but those are usually used in boots or over transmission tunnels since they're heavy.

I am working on a Series/200TDI conversion and the vehicle has dual-tanks (they were filled from each side; I'm converting to use a single fill-point. The stock switch is obviously for the 2.25HO and single feed-line. What is the easiest way to set up the system with the 200TDI so both the feed and spill return lines switch at the same time. One person suggested two electric switches; but I'm hoping for something mechanical and straightforward.

I'm set-up for dual front shocks; fitted 2 TF Pro-Sports but the resulting set-up is overdamped (and I have a front sway-bar) but one set feels under-damped. Is there an adjustable damper out there that can handle the supplemental damping duties well?

Turned out to be either the high or low pressure lines to the turbo; both were not as tight as they should have been. Thanks.

Working on a Defender with 200TDI; fairly low mileage. Engine is leaking oil all over the exhaust downpipe when on the highway; going slow no leaks seem apparent and cannot get it to leak while sitting where I can see it. The potential sources from what I can tell are 'dipstick', 'turbo return', 'turbo feed'. Not much else in that area. Removed crank breather and no pressure coming from sump; no pressure coming from dipstick tube (again at idle/sitting reving). Anyone run into something like this before? Not a lot of time left to fix this; and since it has to travel 250km today I really need to work out the problem asap.