ajh

I know what it was now; and am somewhat surprised. The fork was already a HD unit, the clutch itself is a 130 version so unlikely to fail even with my tuning on the 200TDI. What failed was the pivot on which the clutch fork sits... it doesn't appear to be threaded and I don't have the box entirely out yet (though it's looking like that'll be needed... I really should just make the centre of the seatbox modular so I can get it out that much easier). Ideas on how to fix?

200TDI, R380. This week it became difficult to get into reverse, then nearly impossible unless the engine was stopped first. Suspected slave cylinder so swapped it out after repeated bleedings on the fitted one ended with the pedal refusing to come up from the floor. New slave, pedal returns fine but now the clutch will not fully disengage (and the top bolt hole seems to have stripped on the slave just to make things more fun) so even when trying to start it jumps forward even with the clutch fully depressed. Since everything else appears OK am I looking at having to drop the gearbox to replace the fork or similar? Other ideas? Very frustrated right now.

Coming back to this; anyone know a part number for the single-bolt version? I'd really like to stop the vibration.

Looking for an option to replace a single-line fuel valve with a loop-type fuel switch during a 2.25 to 200TDI swap. Ideas?

Any idea if they're still available? I haven't been able to find anything yet.

You mention being able to get new manifolds? Any pointers would be appreciated. I gather you also need to change the intake manifold for the Defender exhaust manifold to fit.

and in that event... anyone know of someone with the needed parts around?

I'm starting to think the only/best option is to find a Defender intake/exhaust manifold, turbo, and replace the Steve Parker Disco conversion downpipe with a Defender conversion one. Does that grok?

Ran into another issue today. Nobody doing the conversion has mentioned anything about how the turbo and the steering rod want to occupy the same space when using the Disco 200TDI. Had I known this I would have sourced a Defender 200TDI, which if I do now (manifold/turbo at least) means that I end up having to order more custom exhaust sections to get things connected up... Any ideas? I'm thinking perhaps a custom bent steering rod and clocking the turbo will be needed which probably also means re-locating the alternator.

One other theory I am going to implement is a secondary glow plug bypass switch. This way on those really cold mornings when you know it isn't going to be happy you can force the glow plugs to stay on longer, and while getting idle stable as modern vehicles do. This week PWM fan controller, next week find 100A relay to get this done and I'll let everyone know how well it works.

B-Quiet ultimate first, this damps vibration and seals things so well that if it isn't rusting now, it wont. Then top with either neoprene, I used half-inch myself in the footwells and 1/8 self adhesive from RAAMmat (cheapest price I've found) for sound and heat insulation everywhere else. I also used other products but found the combination of these two was the best results for the investment, easiest to install, and had the best water repelling properties.

OK, so the reasonable option is mount up the 200, deliver as agreed, upgrade transmission at a later date if/when needed. It already has a coil chassis so the rest of the drivetrain should already be good.

Am I better off just fitting the LT77/LT230 in place of the Series IIA units?

Not sure, it's yellow if that helps.

The series one has what looks like the replacement for a release bearing attached to the clutch fingers, the 200TDI has the normal bearing-style.

This is probably a stupid question but I figured I'd want to make sure. The 2.25D clutch is clearly differently designed than the 200TDI/Disco one, when putting the 200TDI into a Series III I gather you use the Series clutch basket? Just got the old engine out, hopefully getting the new one in position to figure out the engine mounts before the end of the weekend.

Oh mind is only used for heat, and puts out plenty of heat on high, and on low it only struggles due to some missing door sill sealing I still need to deal with, or if I'm rear venting to try to reduce humidity. I actually found another thread with a link to a PWM controller which I ordered and will be giving a try. I'm also totally eliminating the cable controls at the same time. Hopefully in the end I'll also do a modified binnacle and mount so I can use the extra space too.

Has anyone found a plug/play PWM type fan controller to get the heater box fan with some reasonable control? I'm sick of either freezing or overheating, heater controls should not be binary... they should be a 1-10 type thing.

The secret will be designing a modular panel/bodyshell that still allows for variation.

It sounds like using a voltage regulator might also be a good idea that can keep the output at 14.5V for the headlamps regardless of the main harness voltage.

If oil based, biodiesel will apparently cause that to soften... (guess what I need to re-paint, hint it's right below the FIP. ) If it's xylene based you can often use acetone to wipe it off pretty easily.

Check your ground, a cold connection is loose compared to a warm one and they need attention every year to keep the contact good and clean. Otherwise the above.

I just replace the top corner bolts with long ones and then remove the rest, remove the shifter housing tops and slide the assembly backwards until there's almost enough room though I'm 200/R380 which I suspect is more challenge.

How about just fitting dual dampers on the front?

Nobody else have problems with leaks between turbo and manifold? or suggestions? It's suck to remove/replace the gasket so I'd really like to avoid whatever caused it to leak this time... the noise it makes is VERY annoying.