ajh

lf you want a drain plug on a 200TDI, fit an X-Fan into the bottom hose and then put in a blanking plug instead of the sensor.

Is the 200TDI turbo mount as poorly designed as my experience so far would lead me to believe? There seems to be no way to properly tighten the nuts due to obstructions and then the oil drain pipe never seems to be square when you go to attach it and is a major pain to get to thread? OK, that rant done with my current issue is a squeal sound when I hit about 10PSI of boost which then goes away above about 14PSI which I assume is a leak between the turbo and the exhaust manifold but I cannot re-create unless under load. Has anyone else had problems getting that gasket to seal correctly? I'm thinking about having a thicker composite version cut to give it a better seal... Does any of that make sense?

Fuel filter heater, both coolant and electric wrap in case things gel up because you've got the wrong fuel for the climate at the time, it also allows your coolant heater to pre-heat the fuel making for better running. If it is going to be really cold add silicone heater pads to the oil pans and the fuel tank so you can keep those from getting too cold or warm them up if things fail to start as expected. I am currently running B100 down to -20C which is why I've been dealing with these issues.

Well, they do look better inside and seem to seal better but wow is it more work.

Ah, ok so that's what this has then. PRV, right. So it's just a proportioning valve anyway.

Would a simple proportioning valve work for the same purpose? I'd really like to simplify the pipe routing if possible.

This may seem like an obvious question to most of you; but over here it's not possible to find a stock vehicle to check against. Does Land Rover install the alpine and quarter light seals with the finishing strip to the outside or the inside? I know I fitted mine on the inside and it was.... fun? but most of the ones I've seen have them fitted to the outside.

Nope, only steel.

Has anyone re-done their brakes on a 90 without the G-valve? I know on my 110 there isn't one fitted (though it was originally rear drums) and I don't notice any issues. Given the amount of corrosion we end up with here the less complex the better when it comes to running steel lines. (Copper is not an option here).

Has anyone installed one of these TF871 bulkhead removal bars? They did not come with instructions and a couple photographs would be very helpful right now as I'm really not sure where to start and I only unpacked it just now to discover the total lack of any directions, diagrams or anything other than the steel bits, the function of which I can guess but the way they fit together seems to be non-obvious.

OK, that confirms what I thought. Hopefully that means I'll get the body all aligned and together today.

I am fairly sure I know the answer; but if the rear tub is slightly too low in the front but fine in the rear corner so that the sides when bolted in place have a gap towards the front between them and the tub does this mean I need to loosen all the front tub fixings and shim it up into place to get things to align correctly?

It looks like the olives and compression nuts supplied locally by a hydraulics shop when the original was provided to match ended up being wrong and stripped the top ends of the fuel lines on a 300TDI and now I need to find some push-fit to threaded fitting repair sections. Does anyone know where I can get these? I don't think any of the local suppliers here will have anything that will work. I'll also need to replace the compression fittings as the replacement pump for the 300 did not come with them included which is what started this mess. Any advice would be appreciated. Jury rigged something for now but would prefer to get it fixed properly.

Does anyone know what the maximum spin rate is on the alternators fitted to TDI? Is there any leeway to go to a slightly smaller pulley (if I'm going to machine one) to get higher amperage at lower engine RPM?

I didn't have any luck finding a 100A when I was looking; despite many people suggesting part numbers. I ended up having to rig a new tensioner and using a 300TDI alternator that couldn't be clocked to fit but I'd love to get the right one.

Somehow I managed to misplace or worse; send to the recycler... the pulley for a 200TDI I was working on last year... now comes time to get things running again and it is nowhere to be found. Would anyone possibly have one? I'm having trouble locating one without one to send for comparison and it would be cheaper to get a new one machined than it would be to buy one from Land Rover.

In that case, do you know what size of tube nut it is? There's a hydraulics place in town here I can get most sizes from but I really don't want to remove the master again.

Need to replace a (non-existent) tube just for the master cylinder end of a D1 200TDI clutch. The ones I've been able to find locally that look correct do not fit (and I'm not pulling that master out again). Anyone know the part number for replacement tube nut?

Finding another 200TDI could take some time. I only have a few people in the city who run them and some of those are Disco units which are a bit different.

On my last tank it was more like 15-17L/100km which seems much higher than it should be.

1.2 transfer case; mostly normal highway driving 110-115kph, 20-24mpg roughly.

I've probably learned as much about the pumps as possible from reading. What I'm missing is a baseline to work from again now... I guess trial and error for now then.

My guess is that it is using some of the V8 mounting locations and propshafts. All that work happened before I was involved.

Injectors replaced last year. No noticeable black smoke when the engine is hot except perhaps sometimes on start when pulling a trailer. Top-end is around 130kph.

It was from a Discovery. Why it is like this I'm not sure.