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Is it ok to say... holy carp. I can have one made for less than that! Thanks!

Looking for the part number for a Defender 200TDI V-Belt Alternator Pulley.

Has anyone done structural diagrams good enough to build one of these; assuming you cannot get one locally.

So, misplaced at least one set of fuel pump banjos on a Def 200TDI. Am I correct that the two needed are ERR1125 to connect the spill rail to the pump, and ERR886 to connect the fuel->tank return line to the pump. The diagrams are clear on one of them, but the other seems to just be hanging in mid-diagram with no indication of which sealing washers or fitting it goes with.

This has me a little confused, one set of rotors I have has an angular section at the top of the 'hat', the others are square which means they're offset about 1cm less.

The rear axle housing I'm using on a D90 was from a D1 and I'm wondering if I have to stick with D1 brakes/rotors or if the housing is the same as the D90 and the Defender calipers have the additional offset to use the Defender rotors or not; since they do appear to be different.

One thing that will help is to boil out the factory grease before fitting. They often fit something that waxes badly and prevents distribution. I don't know why they don't just sell some with multiple cap-end nipples; I'm very tempted to just make some for the next time I need any.

If you're replacing the sills; why not just use something a bit bigger and heavier and skip the added sliders?

Yeah, that was the conclusion I came to before going to sleep. The big problem with taking on a job someone else started is you tend to assume they did the basic and easy things first. Bolted up the grounding strap and all is now fine. I'll make up another 2AWG cable and earth the gearbox to a new welded chassis stud to be sure it won't happen again. Now that it is running; the next step is figuring out the best place to take the current from for the stop solenoid (I'm guessing fuel pump relay) and pull a new wire through to the ignition switch for the starter solenoid. After that I'm just putting in a Raptor Pod and using new VDO gauges for Volts, Coolant, Oil Pressure, and EGT and then it's just double checking everything they did before I took it on. Well, that and an exhaust... know if anyone does a downpipe conversion to attach the diesel header to the V8 centre? Either sourcing a new stainless system if Double-S responds to email; or I'll order up the front half and make my own adapter centre.

I now have the vehicle; and have run into something very confusing. After fixing a pile of little things and priming the fuel system: When I apply 12V to the starter solenoid it now turns over; but quite slowly, about once every 1.5-2 seconds. It is behaving like there isn't enough power but there is. The only hint at what could be wrong is after turning it over for a couple minutes some smoke came up from the area around the turbo; I naturally assumed this was just some unburnt fuel... then I stuck my hand down into the area and burned my fingers fairly painfully on the power steering pipe directly below the turbo. I didn't set things up to this point so I'm not sure how things are supposed to run; but even if it was somehow plumbed wrong I wouldn't expect that pipe to heat up. My guess is somehow an electrical short/ground fault. It's dark now so I'll be poking at it again in the morning; is something like this possible if say the engine to chassis ground is poor?

The basic thing to look at is the angle of the trailing arm vs the bushing mounting bracket surface. If it is parallel then you don't need any cranking, if it is under tension then you want as much 'crank' as returns the arm to parallel. My gut feeling is that the stock height arms could do with some cranking but cost means they're straight as this is the strongest configuration with the least weight. Now for 'need' it is more and more needed as you lift since the pressure on the bushing in one direction while sitting at static resting height puts strain and causes extra wear. The 'correct' fix is to have something like X-Arms or Rose-jointed arms which eliminate the bushing pre-load by their design.

Anyone documented the steps for converting a 1999 from a V8/Auto to a 200 TDI w/R380? Mostly looking for which wiring harness bits could just be swapped over vs having to hand-wire things and any other advice that would be helpful.

Have you tried rotating your tyres, checking for play in the rear hubs?

You can also correct the pinon angle and use a wide-angle prop.

After having a customer come in with rotted out ACE lines with multiple leaks and after pricing the stock replacement lines I decided to make up some Stainless Steel replacements for less than the cost of the original; and which will not rust out again. If anyone is interested send me a PM, they're going to be in testing until at least June 15th, and if all goes well I'd love to make up a batch and ship the to the UK all at once; they're not heavy and pack well to a box; they just need a large box in any case. I also added an added a disconnect union to the rear lines make them easier to fit back in place. Contact me for more details. I'm hoping to get the prices down; but there just were not as many ACE equipped D2s sold over here. If this goes well I'm also going to look at doing other lines; I really hate rust... and Canadian winters+salt can be really rough on things that don't get cleaned regularly.

Had a bleed screw break off today; any possibility of repairing this? There just doesn't seem to be anything on the inside to screw back into left. The only option I see is to cut to one side of the hole and fit a hose connector but then of course I lose the bleeder. If I had more time I'd just fit an X-Fan type insert and use a blanking plug. Other ideas?

As long as the nuts unscrew you're good; if the ones on the ring don't then they'll generally break which is nearly as good. The only time they're a pain to re-fit is if the brand of shock is pressurized and wants to keep expanding while you're trying to get everything back together.

Also be aware that the larger dampers won't fit in the tubular ones. Trying out the cellular dynamic dampers on one 90 and had to go with the stock towers I'd galvanized vs the tubular ones that I'd ordered for the project due to clearance issues.

Funny how typing something out often leads to the insight that reveals the answer. One of the pitfalls of working alone is not having anyone to talk things out with. I have discovered the 'cause' but it is odd and surprises me. I had to replace a fender skin a month ago; and the new one was painted right out of the box and I failed to notice it lacked the holes for the side repeater so I left it off to give the paint time to harden before drilling for it. When I removed the bulb from the right-hand repeater, the behaviour became all four lamps flashing on indicating both ways. I gather this is functionality that is in the electronic flasher unit itself; but why it does this and how it knows... I'll dig up the other repeater and plug it into the harness to confirm the behaviour. So weird.

OK; if this helps... if I disconnect the indicator cluster connector (left multiplug) the signals work as expected. I tried a 2nd indicator lamp cluster and it had the same behaviour. Full brightness when indicating left; but very dim when indicating right which is clearly because it is flashing all lamps vs just the correct ones.

The hazards work as expected; I think I'm going to be stuck tracing the system. I thought there might be something that would be obvious to someone who's had this happen; like a bulb going or similar but oh well.

I've been looking for a while for a replacement BCU for a 2001 D2 (V8 if that matters) without much luck. If anyone has one please get in touch. I'm also looking for a sunroof motor (which is apparently the same on a D1 or D2). thanks.

I did try agitating the hazard switch but I'll try removing it; I had the gut feeling that it might be the only place where the systems crossed over. The first thing I did was change the flasher. Thanks.

Yesterday a new fault developed; it was raining which leads me towards 'short'; but it has not corrected. If anyone has some ideas on the cause it would be nice to not have to randomly check the entire system. When I put my left turn signal on; the left one flashes and the dash indicator flashes. When I put my right signal on; all 4 flash and the dash indicator does not flash. In the past (before yesterday) they worked as hoped; but the dash light would flash full bright on left, but only dimly on right. Discuss. Thanks.

No other ideas at all?