ajh

I have partially answered my own question. I went ahead and removed the motor and while the connectors to the motor itself are frayed and might have shorted at some point the motor works as expected. (Yes, I should have tested at the connector before removing it, but then I'd have missed the frayed ends on the pigtail, hopefully I can order that part alone). After this I did check the connector to the pigtail and it only gets power on the up signal, nothing at all on the down. So, I guess I'm going to have to trace it back to an ECU or similar to figure out if it's a simple break or something fried. Still, any experiences would be helpful. Thanks.

As the subject says; I'm looking at a 2001 D2 and the drivers side window will go up, but not down... is this likely to be the motor itself? A practical off-shoot is while the motor was disconnected it got rotated up more than it should as the switch got hit and of course won't return now. Any suggestions welcome.

I'm certainly seeing a difference.

That's what I thought, I guess fitting a vacuume gauge between the airbox and turbo and testing various configurations is my best bet. My gut is telling me the limiting factor is how it connects to the side-vent and that a larger opening there would make a difference. You cannot add that much tube length without increasing drag on the inlet air for sure; I suppose I'll do the tests and try to get around to publishing the results. I do know my boost pressure peak goes from 15psi with it all connected, to 20psi with the airbox top removed, which is significant (boost controller)

Has anyone seen installing a Mantec "mushroom top" type raised air intake on a 200TDI have an effect on turbo boost pressure? My boost seems to top out significantly lower with the intake system sealed up than if I remove the top from the filter housing which leads me to believe the system is too restrictive as-is. Without mounting a series of pressure gauges to determine where the bottleneck is I'd love to improve the airflow as I believe it's affecting my mileage and performance. (I gained about 10kph by pulling the air-cleaner top off).

If I'm restoring a SIII and transplanting a 200TDI/LT77/LT230 into place is there any reason (short of needing the matching tranmission tunnel parts) that I shouldn't just use a newer Defender bulkhead and weld the windscreen mounts in place prior to galvanizing?

Any opinions on the quality of the hinges in the DA1069 kit? Do they have the nylon bushings etc?

On a 200TDI where do people usually drill/tap on the intake manifold to mount the boost gauge/fuel compensator? I have mine apart at the moment so knowing exactly the best location is a bit tricky. Any photos?

Ah, thanks that explains it. So removing them isn't a problem.

On the 200TDI thermostat upper housing (HRC1574) there are two cylindrical casting extras. Are those there for any particular legacy or optional reason?

Well; now at least I know what the problem is. One of the valves on #3 has a crack across most of it's face. The others look like they could use a cleaning as well. Now the only question is, rebuild here or just find a used head?

Well, my problem isn't the clearances. I guess I need to remove the head and inspect the valves; my current assumption is one is damaged or the seat is carbonized.

Well, I managed to track down a compression gauge and.. yeah... front to back, 480, 490, 200, 490psi. So; tonight I'll check the valves and if needed pull the head to check the gasket/seats/worn bores. At least I have a direction now.

This is a 200TDI, I've tried with several lift pumps including an electric one without difference. I believe the cyl tested between 380-400 with no big differences; I'll have to get an appropriate gauge myself to re-test. What seems odd to me is that there isn't tons of smoke; the oil consumption has likely slowed since swapping on another turbo with tighter bushings. There just isn't anyone around here who has any knowledge about these which makes it really difficult to get any outside ideas other than here. I'm going to re-check the valve clearances as soon as I get a chance. There is some valve cover pressure when running but it doesn't seem excessive. I gather a hone/rings means pulling the engine on these.

Well, this is a bit tangential but the thread seems to have the interest of some of the people who might have ideas. Last year I was getting about 22mpg, top speed around 125kph, nothing very impressive.... now my performance is really suffering and I just can't identify what the cause might be. There is only mild oil use, about a litre every 2 fill-ups and I have 130L of capacity, FMIC, turbo tweaked with peak boost around 18-19psi, fuel adjusted to only give a mild haze at full throttle, 1.2TC, 32" tyres, swapped in a known working FIP last week, and I'm able to get to about 120kph as long as there isn't a hill. Fuel consumption however is horrible with my latest tank giving me 890km (I was getting 1300km per tank last year, and since then I also fitted reconditioned injectors), the air filter is new, the fuel filter is new, the sedimentor has been cleaned.... 13.5L/100km. Compression also tested at over 300 on all 4 last year when the changed the injectors around. Power from stand-still is a bit weak, but from 10-70kph it's good, and I find it drops off above that. I'm running out of ideas...

To know if the pump is delivering fuel to specification and to size an electric pump. I'm having performance issues at higher rpm and need to track down why, without knowing what something should be it is impossible to judge if it's working correctly.

Does anyone do real performance parts for TDIs? I know about the turbo options, but how about things like: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Performance-Parts/BD-Diesel-VE-Pump-Performance-Pin-And-Spring-Kit.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=368&t_pt=6185&t_pl=102028 Or things like more complex curve aneroid eccentric pin profiles rather than the simple flat profile ones?

Does anyone know what the minimum/maximum fuel pressure specification (post-filter, pre-injection pump is for a 200TDI?

Wouldn't a head gasket show during a compression test? The valves were also checked within about 15000km, turbo boost is solid.... I'm searching for the electric fuel pump to give that a try. I'm also thinking I should install a fuel pressure gauge in the bleed screw on the fuel pump so I can see drops caused by insufficient flow rates etc, just need to find one. Any ideas on what pressure range I should be looking for? My guess is between 5-15psi.

It should be; I've used a number of different ones but I'm leaning more towards just using a 12V pump instead. I used one in an emergency and it seemed to work quite well. Just need to figure out where I left it. I guess installing a fuel pressure gauge in the feed line post-filter is probably a good idea.

No, that's only for non-running engines. What I want to be able to measure is peak running pressure, all the tuning improvements will increase it, especially advancing the fuel pump and peak pressure is what blows head gaskets, like high-EGT is what errodes/melts the important bits. I've got everything running great up to about 90kph now (I can hit 95-100kph in 3rd actually) but then in 4th and 5th I top out around 120kph (got about 127 by removing the air filter entirely for one test so that's having some effect but I borrowed a filter and I don't think it was made for a tractor and doesn't have full-length perforations in it so I'll get a new one tomorrow that does) but even so I'm expecting to hit 145-150kph not 120..... I'll probably install the electric fuel pump to make sure the feed pressure is adequate and see if that helps; but that's a big power deficit either way.... I'm running out of ideas.

Does anyone know of a gauge that will provide peak cylinder pressure readings?

OK, I just discovered something that isn't mentioned in any of the timing threads I've seen to date. The gear for the injection pump has two different positions for installation. You can set it up either for maximum movement clockwise, or maximum movement counter-clockwise, I'd just assumed (yeah, stupid to assume) that it would be setup to sit in the middle of the drive slot but it isn't, it's about 80% to either advanced or retarded. When assembling before you tighten down the 3 bolts on the injection pump make sure you can rotate the crank more counter-clockwise than clockwise and this will give you more adjustment room for advancing the pump timing. Now to just get things re-assembled and determine if this fixes my lack of performance.

The lack of power is most evident just off-idle with a tendancy to stall, then it seems OK to about 70kph then slow from there to 110kph.

OK, right after getting proper sleep and reading a few threads I figured out the main problem. The two banjo bolts on the input and output for the pump got swapped; why they're not different sizes.... The problem now though is I'm still not getting the kind of power I'd expect, I'm topping at about 120kph but if I turn up the fueling my EGT goes too high before I get smoke. I advanced the timing as much as the plate would allow in-situ but there seems to only be a degree or less of advancement and the rest of the slack seems to be in retardation. I gather this means that when I re-did the belt I put it with the cam one notch forward of where it should be. I'm not eagar to take the chest apart again today (especially considering I put it together with Right Stuff last time due to using up all my gaskets; but if that's the consensus on the behaviour I'll have to get to it.