ajh

More info. So when the throttle is held open it only increases RPM for about the first 1/3rd of the movement, and misfires can be heard when it's held wide open and the shop very rapidly fills up with the unburnt diesel white smoke.

OK, before I suffer any more brain damage from the horrible white smoke I'm getting I thought I'd see if anyoe can shed some light on the problem I'm having. I was getting poor mileage/performance and a number of other symptoms that I'd pretty much nailed down to a failing injection pump (200TDI), I finally got around to swapping in one off an engine that was working fine when it was removed last year. Everything is setup correctly; I double checked (whole timing cover off etc) and timing is correct. It was running fairly strong; just leaking fuel and poor mileage before I swapped in the other pump. When I first started it with the new pump there was a squeal sound for about 3 seconds, then it woud idle fine but would not respond to the accellerator at all. I removed the diaphragm and added some light machine oil and in a few minutes it 'seemed' to rev OK.... I works... but when I have to shift at 20kph, then 30, then 40, the 60... and if I don't it belches white unburnt diesel smoke. My assumption here is that the other pump, somehow possibly from sitting, managed to damage itself (specifically the governor) upon startup, and no matter how much I do I'm not going to be able to get it working correctly... Given that the only change was the pump, all the other usual variables seem to be excluded. Ideas?

I'm trying to work out which dash part is which while building a LHD dash from basics. I'm unsure which part RTC7450 is, is this an additional panel that encloses the front of the parcel shelf? I'm trying to find the newer parts and will probably be fabricating at least the lower dash given the outragous price and horrible lack of functionality in the stock one but I'd like to make sure all the fabricated parts will work on vehicles also fitted with stock parts. If anyone has advice on where to look to find the LHD parts 2nd hand I'm not having much luck at all finding any. I'm looking for the dash fitted just pre-TDCi, so with functional vents but otherwise as modern as possible. If anyone's worked up the correct parts list and would share it that would be very helpful as the parts seem to have countless part references and it's difficult to tell which ones will fit together correctly and given the price of most of these I'd like to minimize errors.

The Defender, Disco and RRC seem to all use very similar versions of the panhard rod chassis bracket, any insight on why they're different and if the difference is enough to cause issues?

I have a customer who just bought a Series 3 hybrid, at first glance it appears to have discovery axles and probably a professionally built chassis, all actually looks really well done. It has a naturally aspirated Land Rover diesel, I would guess a 19j since there is a mounting location above the injection pump that looks like the AC compressor location on a 200tdi. The issue is that the steering is both very heavy and excessively vague, my assumption is that either the knuckle geometry on the discovery swivel housing is significantly different or the pitman arm is much shorter than on the series knuckle (I don't have one to compare) so the steering ratio is probablyway off. So my question is, is there an easy solution? A manual box with more torque or similar? Lengthening the pitman arm is an option but the steering vagueness is likely to become significantly worse, so fitting an adwest 4-bolt power box and one of the spare pumps I have here off a v8. Has anyone done a mounting bracket to fit one? Is mounting it high a problem as long as the reservoir is high enough to avoid air locks. Any other ideas?

Did anyone happen to take accurate measurements for chassis dimensions for a 100" using Defender rear crossmember and RRC chassis? I don't have my bodywork yet and yes, can calculate things, but if someone has it all done up already it would be nice to have something to check against since I can weld the chassis up this week but am unlikely to have bodywork for some time.

I noticed Cosworth sell a dry sump system for the Ford 4s you might want to take a look at that, no idea what kind of volume they move but I'm sure they've dealt with all the major issues. I have plans on doing one for the TDV6 eventually so I can run 40L of oil, though rather than a tank I'm looking at using a high-pressure hydraulic radiator system mounted remotely with several settling/air separation tanks on the way to the rad and adding piston skirt sprayers as part of the pan. (this is for something a little more demanding than a challenge vehicle though )

I need to replace a torn boost compensator diaphragm and need the part number for that for a 200TDI (it arrived torn, I blame someone else who worked on it) and ideally a number for the banjo bolt that holds the turbo pressure pipe to the compensator cap (another person here had one vibrate loose so I gave him my spare). Thanks!

I know it sounds like a stupid question but I don't want to assume the Britpart ones are junk. Has anyone here seen/used both the Exmoor and the Britpart seat re-trim kits? I have someone looking at doing theirs with Techno and the Britpart one is cheaper and more importantly, much less hassle to obtain.

Another part that's psychotically overprices is NTC9461, I suspect I can just use one from a wrecked RRC or D1 but... I think I could probably buy a 2nd hand mill and stock, and make my own for that price.

Anyone done something to say use a chainsaw to run a battery charger? Since it is something commonly taken on expedition I was thinking that one might make a special bar where the end cog can also spin an alternator or similar, for those interesting emergencies.

Managed to overlook that one, thanks! Hopefully it fits both LHD and RHD, for some reason LR lists different parts for each. Now if I can just figure out which lower dash I need for this one, I wanted to put in the newer style (with vents, not Puma) dash but LHD for this 90 but the catalog images show the old type and given the psychotic price I really want to be certain...

Anyone compiled a complete parts list for the LHD conversion they'd be willing to share? Or have a favourite wrecker somewhere that would be able to source the LHD parts? They're certainly not cheap from LR.

Is anyone already making an alloy alternative to MUC3023/MTC2808, I can't see it costing more than the 52GBP Land Rover wants for them, and an alloy replacement wouldn't crack again. If not, would anyone be interested if I got some made up?

Retro, this is in your experience? How many KM did you get out of one vs the other?

Anyone tried the cheap 7gbp drop arm ball joints? Experiences?

Does anyone know offhand the stock 200tdi injector specs? Nozzle size and brake pressure specifically, and what larger sizes have been tried and with what results. I think I am nearing to limit of pump advance and one way to decrease cylinder peak pressure (and strain on head gasket) is less advance and reduced injection duration instead. I am also likely to be running B100 soon and larger will help compensate for that as well.

That would be nice, check out CBS they might have something that'll work by siliconing on the LR ends as well.

You'll need to check to see if your transfer case has PTO splines. I've heard they were left off on some Discos but have no idea which ones. The shafts, well you'll need clearance depending on where you want to run them it probably means a plasma cutter and some fabrication. PTO hydraulic drive and H12/14 on the other hand is much easier to deal with.

Which leaves me wondering... why the price gap. I've more or less worked out tuning the things from first principles so a different starting tune isn't an issue. A reasonable price for a brand new pump though...

OK, problem fixed and it looks like everything else done has had an improvement over how it was when it got it. Cruising at 130kph with a top-speed of 137kph right now (with a little smoke, now that the other stuff is working I can get the pump dialed in properly finally. The problem was something had lodged in the fuel pickup pipe, a blast of air and it shot across the room like an airsoft bb and now it gets the fuel it should and with the new timing is running at 200F on the highway under full load and 190F on side streets which is cooler than before too and the more advanced timing dropped the EGT quite a bit except under full load (since right now it's clearly overfueling).. so yay!

Can you explain this then? http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=200TDI+fuel+injection+pump&submit.x=0&submit.y=0 The OE Disco one is listed at 1/5th the price of the OE Defender one, even cheaper than the reconditioned Defender one.

No, the electric is significantly better than the mechanical. I'm going to go make sure the pipes are clear in a few minutes.

I had a set of drum stubs machined to match the profile of the front stubs and all is fine. I also used Discovery rear calipers and caliper mounts (machined to align the caliper correctly) once I got it setup it's been trouble free.

Since I don't have access to a Disco 200TDI to compare, how different is the injection pump from the Defender one? (how LR thought making two different engine configurations was a good idea and cost-effective is a good example of why there aren't too many brands left....) I gather they're not interchangable.