ajh

I did some more troubleshooting. The problem occurs when the fuel filter empties, so there must be an obstruction in the feed-line that's preventing it from getting fuel quickly enough. Even with just the electric pump running and the bleed screw removed it took about a minute (engine off) for the filter to fill up again. At least this feels like progress My believe now is it must be between the tank and the filter which narrows it down significantly to either something lodged in the feed line, the sedimentor, or the fuel pickup. However it's now almost 10pm and I'm getting tired of smelling of diesel so I'll check all that in the morning. With this info, do you thing it could be anything else?

I know, I found a number of things that could contribute but fixing them doesn't seem to change much, and yes since changing the timing belt, power before sucked and was running higher EGT than normal and topping out at 110kph... it's running smoothly, except once the fuel starvation starts... I'm fairly convinced it's either the FIP or air getting into things somewhere, the leak-off seems good, I changed the hoses on them about 5 months ago, I tried with the filler cap off the fuel tank and got the same symptoms. The closest I've seen to the behavior was on my Fireblade when the fuel vent pipe got pinched, would run but then starve and stall. This only stalled once when I was stopped and rev'ed it up. Tomorrow I'll focus on air and looking for any holes worn in the fuel line but after that I'm stumped.

Anyone? This is getting really frustrating and the next step is stripping the FIP from the other 200 I have here and swapping it in; but that means no sleep.

Nope, and I've tried two different mechanical lift-pumps as well as the 12V pump I used when I had my lift-pump die while on the road. I've found a number of problems; none of which seem to correct the hesitation at high-rpm... In the interest of full disclosure here's what I've done this week and the symptoms. I changed the timing belt, the cam sprocket mark was on it in such a way that it couldn't line up 100%, it had to be half a tooth forward or back of the mark, I elected for forward. I've been micro-adjusting the timing since to try to get things running as smoothly as possible and I feel I have a good sense of what too advanced and too retarded feel like now and in general the engine is running very strong, fairly cool, and quieter than ever so I believe the timing is good. The symptoms are; I start the vehicle, drive to the highway 1km away, engine runs very strong throughout the RPM range, in fact when it's working it is the first time I've been nearly happy with the performance. I even hit 130kph going up about a 4% grade on the highway; that's about the minimum level of performance I'm shooting for. Then within a minute I start getting fuel starvation symptoms at full throttle, if I back-off or shift up it goes away briefly until I get back to full throttle again. Am I correct in my deduction that the only thing left at this point is the high-pressure injection pump?

and, that's the long one for use with a Rover differential vs a long-nosed Salisbury? I just want to be 100% since they're not really returnable.

A customer came in yesterday running the original salisbury rear propshaft on a vehicle converted to a rover rear-end, frightening. I just want to make sure that the newer style rear-prop will be the correct length for this application (I don't see why it wouldn't be, but there aren't any to compare with) and wondering if the unusually inexpensive ones that Paddocks offers are worth fitting and the OE part number for it. Thanks.

Other than the fuel lift pump; what tuning / parts can cause a high-rpm stutter that feels like fuel starvation on a 200 TDI? At the same time, does anyone know what the fuel loop pressure and flow rate should be on a healthy lift-pump?

Just jb-weld in an inch of 1/2" keys stock then any 1/2" wrench would be fine.

I am seeing something similar but MPG is also suffering, like 19-20mpg. I get some smoke around 15psi of boost and I have tried two different turbos.

Could someone with a 2007 or newer please take a couple quick photos of the area on the floor just inside the doors so I can see what the sill-covers (carpet retainers, etc) actually look like. I don't have access to anything new here and need to fabricate a solution next week.

No, those are sill panels, what i am after would fit on the top of the bottom rail of the t-post and cover the outer edge of the seatbox/flooring. A photo with the door oen would give me exactly what I need.

It is not the seals I care about, I have seals. What I need to see is what the sills look like, I donot have any sills at all right now and nothing to compare with for what they should look like.

And.... what do those look like?

The basics of getting a container from the UK to Canada seem simple enough but I am running into some hurdles that I hope you guys might be able to clarify since this will be my first time handling the entire process. The first issue is loading time, the shippers I've talked to want to loadat a dock and in 3 hours or less. Given that I want to get large body parts in the container I figured on building scaffolding to secure things which will take a while. The second thing is getting all the shipmentsin the same place prior to loading, somewhere that I can get access to pressure wash all the used parts (soil contamination is a major concern of the port inspectors on this end) and store everything until loading. I am happy to come over and do the loading and paperwork etc., so any suggestions would be helpful, especially those that help keep expenses down as I am also helping a number of other enthusiasts get things here.

Could someone with a 2007 it newer model please send/post some detailed photos of the front door and 2nd row door sills. I have the new doors bit no idea what the new sill profile looks like and would like to get mine sealing up before this winter. Thanks!

Heard back from Skan4x4 and they don't do many Defenders and usually just engines/transmissions etc. I 'll try the next one.

Longlandy, yes I can do my own dismantling/packing but am limited by my tools being for the most part in Canada. My ideal situation is to come over for a week or so every 6 months and put together a shipment. To make this viable from what I understand I'd need: 1. A bonded warehouse (or similar) to have all the parts shipped to in advance. 2. Somewhere at the warehouse to work/load the container. 3. Some local help to source the correct heat-treated wood/crate materials, rent tools, etc. I'm generally flexible but I really need to get the cost of parts down if this is going to be viable and that means doing more myself.

Why not the X-arms then you get the best of both.

Twin pyrometers would be a lot more useful though. Been meaning to put in another to help tell how much downpipe egt is burning fuel.

What I did was remove the transfer case shift housing top section and replaced two of the bellhousing (or 3) studs with long bolts which allowed me to slide the whole assembly back enough to swap the clutch. This was after some less successful attempts and will be how I do it in the future.

I am in Canada and want to import a container of Defender parts, doors, body panels, etc. My main problem is finding someone I can trust to supply parts and package them to avoid getting everything mangled during shipping. I would be willing to come over and do the dismantling and packing of the container if someone has facilities etc. Any advice would be appreciated.

Stick a probe from an indoor/outdoor cheap digital thermostat on the new master and keep an eye on it to see how warm things get there. If you're getting too much heat it could be contributing. Of course thinking about it you're probably RHD but don't list your location, those of us who're LHD have the clutch pretty close to the exhaust downpipe.

How do you see the amount of contact changed from the stock setup? In general this is allowing me to set the tension far more reliably and it never slips back like the stock setup can, and the bolts don't need to be overtightened to prevent the slippage so I'm thinking it'll be more reliable, not less. For the next one I'm going to build a similar tensioner but put it in the stock position if the tab is correctly located.

After a day all seems to be fine, and yes not needing a prybar to set tension is nice.

When tuning the VE FIP is the boost compensator in addition to the maximum fuel delivery screw adjustment or is the maximum stop screw the absolute limit to fueling volume?