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If there's no movement then there's no worry.

Here's a photo of my solution to mount wrong-sided tabbed alternator to a 200TDI. It also makes adjustment a lot easier. My only worry is the rear tab may be too close to the PS pump output but I think it's good.

I did about as extreme a soundproofing as possible and it helps but the #1 most important thing to do is seal everything every pinhole lets in more noise than you think. Weight added will help a lot but my next thing is dealing with the oil pan, a heavier alloy pan with ridges to stiffen it should reduce alot of noise as so much goes through the thin pan now.

So I can confirm they changed the design to one with external brushes but a 4-bolt body. I have a line on a Bosch unit that will fit but I believe I have this one working anyway. What I did was mount it with the tab backwards and modified a RRC tensioner to pull instead of push and mounted it between the power steering pump pivot bolt and the alternator. The only possible issue is the lower rear tab and the steering pump output are tight, but I think I got enough clearance to make it work. I put a photo on my Facebook account if anyone wants to see the modifications.

So several hundred dollars and a week later I have a AMR5425 G but now to rotate the housing it seems like the external electronics now need to be cut off? Is this accurate or is there some way to free up the housing to rotate?

Having searched for a few hours I'm still unsure which one will fit a LHD 200TDI Defender, lots of numbers are mentioned but then people say they won't work....

Well, after the 45A died (200TDI) I fitted the 65A I had here, and now the front ear has broken off this one. Can anyone confirm that AMR2938 A127-120 will fit in the same space as the other units? Might as well fit the highest capacity one that will bolt-in to reduce winch stresses. Searching seems to say that the 100A one YLE10113 G would be more reliable than an A127 based unit... comments?

I have a 90 that has been sitting at Brit-Car for too long and it really needs to be taken to the Southampton docks ASAP, I'm hoping someone here with a vehicle trailer can help me out, it was a real mess dealing with the seller and a nightmare of problems for a vehicle that was not-as-advertized but it really needs to finally make it here so I can fully assess what I can re-use and what I can't... If you could contact me asap if you could help out that would be great. Or if you know someone who could. Ideally if it could be picked up today/tomorrow and then taken to the dock when I have the paperwork filed that would be amazing. Thanks!

So, anyone got a working ETC equipped control block they want to sell cheap? This customer doesn't really have any income to speak of and has just been trying to get the RRC on the road for about 3 months (I got it about a month ago).

This is just getting stranger. HELP! I bled everything and it seems to be fine EXCEPT... if I block the outlet of the brake-boost pump the pressure switch turns it off almost right away which is as it should be. If I connect it to the accumulator then the pressure never builds which to me means that it's flowing though into the TC/ABS modulator and circulating unimpeded... there is 3-9 code showing as well. Does this indicate a broken value inside the modulator? Any other ideas? I strongly suspect if I blocked off the other port on the accumulator with a bleed screw then it would store pressure fine.. it's just leaking through somewhere and I'm staring to lose it.

I'm having some issues fixing a 93 RRC and would appreciate some insight/assistance. The brake booster pump has been rebuilt, seems to generate pressure but does not shut off at any point and I tried two different pressure switches. The ABS code showing is a 3-9, could this be causing the pump to never shut off? What is the most likely cause for a 3-9 "ECU connection or wiring to outlet, isolating, hydraulic motor solenoid valve"?

The ends where the large bolts go through have next to no metal so they crack. It's just use of inferior materials combined with a stupid design. Do the same with a piece of spring steel and it would last forever... but then this is the company who intentionally made their chassis rot out prematurely when there was a perfectly acceptable fix as well.

So, clearly LR made an inferior part since they last a few months and then break again. Has anyone done up a version of the bracket that goes between the block and the downpipe that is a little more durable, and perhaps a lot easier to access?

I'm trying to figure out a problem with air suspension. It seems to be at the correct ride height and I've heard a valve release air once when jacking things but no sound of an air pump or similar (not very familiar with this model). There are no obvious errors on the dash cluster but when I try to adjust the ride height or press the button in the centre of the adjustment knob all that happens is the light beside the flat road symbol flashes, the light on the button stays lit all the time and the one beside the flat surface stays lit when it isn't flashing. Any advice would be appreciated. When I got it here at first there were no lights at all on the adjustor until I pulled out the EAS fuse and placed it back if that helps.

If that's true then it's great as I also need some donor parts for some Defenders and if it's pre-EAS then those should work too

So, we all know leaking is 'accepted' as an unavoidable eventuality with the Adwest boxes. I've heard though that when Meridian rebuilds them they replace the bushing with a bearing which stops the wear and subsequent seal failure and spoken to a number of people who've used Meridian boxes without any sign of leaks. Does anyone know if Adwest at any point adopted this fix on new boxes or if any other rebuilder does this upgrade? It seems like something that just makes sense really. Are Meridian boxes readily available in the UK or is there a potential market for them there as a proper fix? I have to fix about 4 boxes right now and I'm trying to figure out my best options and if I can help others I'm all for it.

Are there any differences between the 1992 V8 LWB and the 1993 model? I have someone who needs a donor for parts so if they're the same this one is available at a good price.

Are there any differences between the 1992 V8 LWB and the 1993 model? I have someone who needs a donor for parts so if they're the same this one is available at a good price.

OK, if I get some DOT street legal (basically like the Goodridge) line kits made up for L322s is there any interest in them?

Really, nobody? I cannot move this out of my one bay until I get new rear lines in place and need to order them first thing Monday.

Can anyone point me at a vendor for full-stainless (hose and fittings) replacement flex lines for a 2003 L322? I'm replacing the rear lines (apparently for the 2nd time, hopefully with stainless this time) and the flex lines are also showing corrosion that I'd like to eliminate at the same time.

It's the line corroding on the way to the rear brakes. I'm working on one with the same issue right now and given that it looks like someone already replaced them once I'm recommending using stainless lines from the rear of the wheel arch backwards this time.

Try driving 11h/day for 4 weeks and see how you feel about it. Also, try driving a modern vehicle and see how things differ, yes what is there is 'adequate' but for people who need more or expect more I want to have a good reliable off-the-shelf option so people don't have to come up with their own setup every time. If you think the brakes on your vehicle are fine, then this is not something you'd be interested in which is fine, there are billions of people not interested, we don't need to hear from all of them.

How much interest here would there be in a bolt-on hydro-boost brake assist conversion kit? Has anyone here done the conversion and able to offer up some insight into just how much of an improvement it makes? I'm in the process of working with a vendor to come up with a kit, I have both LHD and RHD 200TDI Defenders here and will have a 300TDI one shortly and would be looking for someone with a NAS V8 who would be interested in brakes that feel more like a modern vehicle than a tractor. My goal is to ship both to the UK and North America to get volumes up enough to bring the costs into a realistic range and it will include a complete bolt-on master and booster assembly plus the hoses to plumb into the power-steering system. A proportioning valve will also likely be included to allow adjustment of front-rear brake bias. One other thing I've been considering is fitting a remote vac booster to the clutch if there's any interest in having a light clutch pedal out there. I've love to get feedback on other things to consider, general opinions, etc.

That would be very cool. I know both of mine are likely to need some work in the next year and lining up the reasonable modifications and working on a spare to drop in would be nice.