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One thing that dramatically helped my performance was fitting an in-line electric diesel pump between the fuel pickup and the sedimentor, now when I hit the switch I know the loop is pressurized and there's no air getting in at all and bleeding has never been easier, I think it shot about 4' when I opened the bleed screw on the filter My MPG jumped and top end jumped and the lift pump does have pressure and is only about 30,000km old.

Have it sandblasted, acid dipped, and galvanized.

There is no case where a Rad Muff is needed. Even driving through Wyoming at 9000ft without a working heater fan at -11F windchill (when standing still, and blowing snow...) my 200TDI maintained a consistent coolant temperature of 180-200F and conditions don't get much worse than that. If you believe you need one the first step is to fit an actual temperature gauge. If the gauge is reading low (mine was sitting around 140F-160F when I initially fitted it) then your thermostat is leaking and replacement will correct the problem. A muff will speed up how quickly things heat up but so will fitting a block heater and using it when things get cold.

If the splines are in good condition I bet you could JB Weld them and see reasonable life and no heat-issues since heating is going to soften them by removing the temper anyway.

Why not use spacers as part of the 3" and then you just need to find the appropriate 2" longer spring. There isn't really any advantage to going with 3" longer springs unless you're going softer for articulation and running tires that big, big articulation is going to be a nightmare.

This is common with poorly mixed blends that separate and you end up with the heavier fuel on the bottom. I had this happen with plain diesel while driving through Wyoming a few weeks ago. Get this, -11F windchills and the stations are allowed to sell unblended non-winter diesel without warning you to add additives. I had to drain the entire tank dry to get the fuel pickup to unthaw. One good reason to convert VO to B100 is that it will mix better with the diesel. Make sure you mix it very well if you're doing blends.

Do you mean noise while sitting in the vehicle, or noise while standing behind the vehicle?

I'm very curious about what kind of engine building has been done to 200TDI out there and with what kind of results? So far I have not seen anyone really doing much to them and they've got to have some potential given what kind of performance you can get out of other designs with some work. Does anyone know someone who's really pushed one with reasonable results? What was done etc? I'm thinking about things like stroking/boring out to say 3L, use of pistons other than stock to get higher EGT tolerances (like ceramic sludge topped pistons used in modern diesels), new exhaust manifolds to fit larger turbos or in-line turbos, larger VNTs, bigger exhausts, oversize valves, etc. My early experience was all with F1 race motorcycles and some of the changes were quite spectacular, others just didn't have the expected results at all. I'd like to be able to decide what to do on my next build and finding TDV6 to drop in is still an expensive option these days.

It would be nice to be able to measure the amount of oil blowing by over time as well. I may do this in combination with the Alisport non-mesh separator already fitted.

Two wheel drive Land Rovers have been made and I don't believe any of the RWD parts were beefed up in the process so you should be fine. Just make sure the CDL lever is not loose or going to pop out of lock while driving. I'd check the rear prop condition at the same time, if the front is getting worn the rear may be as well and the above statement is true when the rear is in good condition.

That being said, they're rear axles and given they were drum, even the Disco stuff is a significant improvement.

Thanks, that's the information I needed Should be able to get things feeling almost modern by the time I'm finished.

I'm aware of this but there's no reason those controls couldn't be separated. The fan is just a 12V DC fan so being able to use a varistor or 10-position dial resistor of suitable capacity just seems like a good idea. I'm also going to install booster fans for getting heat to the rear of the vehicle as well. I had things freezing up in the back going through Wyoming at 9,000ft with a dead fan (got some heat but all from air-pressure while moving). A booster fan would also ensure getting heat even if the main fan dies again and on low speed would reduce the amount of work the main fan needs to do as well. I'm doing my dash from scratch from the bulkhead out so I have a lot of re-engineering opportunities to consider.

Has anyone just put a variable resistor on the main power lead for the heater box fan to bypass the rest of the electronics and have dial-adjustability for fan speed? I'm looking for a resistance range/suggestion on which to use. If there's any sane reason for the setup LR uses I'd love to hear about it.

This is what mine did when the sedimentor was full of red jelly crud so either the fuel lift pump or fuel filter would be my guess. Do you drain your filter every 2 weeks?

It almost seems sensible to put them up on blocks if you're not planning on driving in the next few days.

I believe they're +11mm over stock ones. Measured it a few years back.

The main advantages would be strength and having a tensioner I suppose. I just had 2 belts go on me last week and found a chunk out of my crank pulley (which as it turns out was not the cause, it was a leak of coolant onto the belt causing slipping) this just had me thinking about it and I know many US engines have conversion kits so I was wondering.

Not having a lot of diesels over here I don't have as much practical experience as I would like and have a couple questions that hopefully someone here can answer. I'm looking at lot of things at once so I might be a slightly confused. My assumption is that when tuning and turning up the fuel delivery, the point when EGT skyrockets is generally caused by unburned fuel burning in the turbo/exhaust on the way out (my probe is in the turbo downpipe so this probably shows this state quite well). Is this possibly because the injection duration exceeds the burn-time window due to flow volume and an indication of faulty or possibly that larger injectors capable of increased flow in a shorter timeframe would be a reasonable option? I don't think my injectors have ever been replaced and the engine had about 350,000mi on it (200TDI) before I got it and I'm trying to tune for power. I can get things stable but I don't feel that I'm getting as much power as I should be and the fuel economy is pretty poor (seems to be about 20mpg). There is no visible smoke until the throttle is wide open and then it's just a light haze. I do get a fair bit of soot on start-up but in a single puff unless things are cold in which case I get black smoke for the first few gear shifts and then it's fine. I keep coming back to either injector issues (leaking?), FIP issues, or excessive ring-wear, I haven't been able to do a leak-down test yet (I'm on the road) but I haven't seen much on here dealing with the effects of injector changes and cut-off pressures, flow rates, etc and would love to learn more so I can properly diagnose what's going on. I've tried to read as much as I can but there's still enough missing experience to properly diagnose things, I seem to have pump tuning down pretty well though

Anyone ever seen a serpentine conversion for the 200TDI?

How much tension preload should there be on the front shock bushings when the nut is all the way down? It's obviously physically limited but even with it as tight as it goes I don't see any deformation in the bushings and I can still move the top side to side slightly just by wiggling it. I suspect it's the combination of the various items being shorter than needed, I just want to confirm so I can add some spacers as needed today.

No kidding, I got burned... twice. Next time I'm coming over in person and using the classifieds and other farmer-tech methods to search. Even the one that 'looked' good at first, when I got it home and cleaned it up I found the middle of the chassis was nearly missing (and that was after driving it 1500km) and the rear axle housing was corroded beyond re-use.

I use mobile ATF, no issues at all. I also run the oversized alloy reservoir to keep things cool.

Anyone who bought them simply for bad weather will quickly realize how much work they are and sell them off during the summer

Thanks for the insight, things seem to be working fine now. Just topping things up with the charger and hopefully it won't be a total loss system anymore