ajh

Well a bit more research and the front from the 90 should drop in as they did not go 24 in the front until later. Now to figure out how to get a couple hours to get things swapped.

I have a front from a 1993 90 I could pull, bit in addition to the differential assembly what other parts do I need to swap at the same time, the 110 being a 1992 and therefore a 10-spline? There is also a chance this one is bad and lmost any replacement I am likely to find here will be from a Discovery so the same as the 90.

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My front diff was rebuild and set to spec (I stood and watched them do it and it was all correct as far as I could tell) but 5000km later (possibly earlier but I just found this) and the front pinion flange can wiggle side to side about 1-2mm which is likely where the vibration at 120kph comes from. What could cause this if things were setup correctly? I know I broke a rule and replace the pinion but not the ring, would they really bed in enough to need a bunch more shimming? (I suspect the answer is yes) If I drive it for the rest of the week before re-shimming, just highway to and from a job, am I likely to do any damage with that little movement? Thanks.

The correct thing to do is wash using Trisodiumphosphate. This is a high-phosphate soap that is generally used for concrete and bathroom walls prior to re-painting to remove any oil/fat/skin residues so that the paint will adhere. Should be available at any hardware store. If you cannot find it, any laundry powder should work fairly well, just make a paste and use a stiff brush.

You need to fit a catch-can instead and vent that to the intake.

Well, 2.95L then, it would still mean a more 'relaxed' operation and only moderately more fuel use depending on tuning, but of course speculating on why LR does what LR does requires a lot of beer to be productive, so next time I'm over, drinks are on me.

Yeah, the number of people here who believe they need to be able to tow a float with an excavator on it with their pickup truck is pretty crazy. On the other end, 200/200/TD5... come on Land Rover, put some guts in the Defender and fit the TDV6. Why have they always fitted something about 25% less than was needed... if the 200/300TDI had been 3L instead of 2.5 we'd all be happy now.

You can also drill additional holes to make it easier, especially at the low points where water/carp sits and rusts things out. If there is still steel there to drill that is. A pile of half-inch holes is not going to make any substantial difference to the strength as long as you don't seriously over-do it in a high-stress location where there's more rust than steel. Personally I think that it would be cool if they'd cut big holes in the replacement chassis and flare them to restore about 80-90% of their strength (amazing how much a simple flare adds back) along the length of the side rails, then they'd be trivial to keep clean and probably cut about 15% of the weight with no adverse side effects. (note, you CANNOT do this on a chassis that's already been welded together, it has to be done while the pieces are flat) Next time I'm over I'm going to have a long chat with Alistair and see what can be reasonably done.

If you get a protective layer applied the adhesive may fill the scratches enough to make them go away. Something like http://www.clearplex.com/. I'll be putting it on mine mostly to stop rock impacts from spidering but also to keep sandblast damage down since I do plan on traveling in some hostile environments (silica flats, Dempster Highway etc).

If you don't have one the big crud that it catches will block the filter instead, same result in the end but you go through more filters vs cleaning out the sedimenter. Good to know this now though, it's always fun getting to know all the quirks of a new vehicle, let alone a new and 'exotic' fuel one. (as you know the only small diesels over here are the VWs and the 6-8L pickups).

I think I had a bit of luck. While checking the fuel sender I realized I had not drained the sedimentor yet, when I did red blobs came out with the diesel, removing the bowl revealed more of it. No clue what it is or how it got into the fuel but removing it and cleaning things seems to have cleared up the issues. How often should one be cleaning the sedimentor and changing the fuel filter on these anyway, I've only done 7500km since getting it back on the road a couple weeks ago so I wouldn't have expected that much carp to be in there yet. Hopefully that was the only cause of the issue and my longer drive tomorrow should confirm it.

I'm hoping someone will be able to shed some light on a problem I'm having. Things were running strong last week but a couple days ago (coincidentally I filled up with the Ultra-low sulphur diesel for the first time just before this started so it may be related) suddenly I started getting what felt like fuel starvation at high-rpm (I'm going to guess at around 2500rpm or so) where things would studder. It has gone back to normal, and then the problem has returned at least twice in the last 48h. Something I noticed today is if I use engine-braking then press on the accelerator pedal I get blue smoke for a second, otherwise only a small puff on startup as usual. The lift pump was put on <5000km ago and so far seems to be performing correctly. The fuel filter was changed this afternoon just in case. Without more detail, does anyone have some ideas on what it could be? I have some ideas but would like un-biased opinions before offering them up.

Could someone who has the instructions for assembling the 2nd row reclining seat frames and seats post/send them to me? I've pretty much got tonight to finish the job or I'm stuck with work taking up all my time until the end of the month. I should now better by now and just email vendors to send the missing instructions before the products actually arrive, it would save time.

You need to determine if they're actually bottoming out or not, put a zip tie around the shaft then drive over something, it will slide up to indicate the most compression you experienced on that run. Then knowing actual facts you can address actual issues.

Given the option progressive springs are always the right choice for the street (motorcyclists learned this a long time ago as progressive coil upgrades are one of the most common if not the most common suspension upgrade for bikes), the question so far has been if any of them are good quality or if they're going to sag in a few thousand kilometers. Please do report back

If the soft ride is your goal and cost isn't a concern you could fit a set of Light Racing Jounce Shocks or similar active bump stop which will give a much more forgiving end of travel. If you don't want to alter the geometry I'd fit some slightly heavier front springs and if the shock/tower combo still doesn't work, get some really tall towers and get someone (qualified) to cut/re-weld them to the appropriate length for you.

Agreed value is always as high as you can stomach the premiums to be. As you know the amount of effort it takes is difficult to price, so get a quote on building it from a similar base vehicle from Nene or Foley and you have a value that is reasonable.

Do not even consider skipping adding relays, it's not hard, anyone can do it.... you won't be sorry.

One thing that was not mentioned is to check and make sure the KM and KM2 were both of the same load rating.

Brit-Car is the way to go having tried all of them. I'm also willing to ship from here and share shipping if you contact me off-board.

Yeah, I'm heading out to try to find something suitable.

Bolt On Bits never returned emails, or responded to orders placed on their website, all I needed to know was how long an out of stock item was going to be before it shipped. I ended up machining my own parts rather than wait.

I think the 30l left in the tank has caused the sender calibration to have issues, I won't be able to confirm this until I get it pulling every ounce of fuel out before running dry. The only real way to figure out how much it needs extending is trial and error, then running until the fuel runs out, checking, trying again... I was just really hoping someone might save me a few hours of wasted time at a point where I really don't have the time to waste. A single email response or note included with the tank from the vendor would have made this all moot, I'm really considering going after them for this, as well as all the parts that did not show up with my order.

Nobody has any clue if you're supposed to extend the fuel pickup tube, and if so by how much? See, this is the problems when idiots sell a product without any instructions, or after sales support.