ajh

Whatever you do, do NOT get the SafariEquip ones, aside from the horrible service, they don't come with any brackets to mount them to the outriggers which means having to make those yourself, they seem to want you to just drill them into the ends of the outriggers, a mount that provides about 20lbs of force resistance.

A while ago I asked about replacing the small plastic clips that are at the front of the seat-rails and that hold down the bar on the front of the seat base and was told that these were not a part that Land Rover would sell independent of the seat base which are about 190GBP each and will just break again. After getting really tired of the seat base shifting around every time I moved I designed a replacement retainer that uses a detent spring and ball to hold the seat firmly in place. The retainers are machined from Delrin and and take about 10 minutes to install and should out-last the vehicle, the initial batch are all hand-machined and I'm re-selling them at cost to anyone who would like to solve the issue once and for all. I'm hoping I'm not the only one out there who found the issue annoying. I've attached photos of the original LR part showing how they break as well as the replacement retainer and a close-up of the mechanism (or as good as I could get at the time without a macro-lens). Because they're hand-machined they're not as cheap as I'd like, but still you can do a seat for 40GBP. If you're interested send me a PM with your address and we can sort out shipping. The first bigger batch should go out next week.

When you get the front ends out, give the brackets a whack with a sledge hammer hard enough to spread them out about 2mm or so, a 2x4 makes a good "punch" for this, then when you go to slide the new arms into place you will have a bit of clearance to get things lined up properly to get the bolts into place and once you tighten them down things will go back into position. Just don't bend them too much and you won't see any fatigue issues. With LR tolerances the worst part of the job for me was trying to get things to line up on both sides well enough to get the bolts through and this helps immensely.

If you're going to the effort of blasting it go the entire way and pull the body off, blast the whole thing and galvanize. If you're at all like me you'll start, not be happen, then just end up re-doing it later.

Could anyone "who knows" confirm that the anti-roll bar links as fitted to all solid axle coil sprung Land Rovers (excluding the Discovery II) are identical when it comes to mounting fastener sizes? I'm designing a quick disconnect that I'd ideally like to be able to sell as an off the shelf product and am wondering if I can depend on one design fitting all the different applications. I'm also curious what size of TRE is integrated into the stock ARB link, has anyone done the math on the maximum force that can get applied to a swaybar? Much appreciated.

Yeah, rather than welding why not find someone who makes a spool you can drop in, they're usually cheap.

No, given the correct replacement parts and the right setup you can press them back together. I know Bill at Great Basin Rovers was talking about possibly setting up to to do it, having to lay out $400 a hub is pretty nuts overall and there must be a mountain of take-offs out there to rebuild.

Is anyone offering D2 hub rebuilds as a service yet? If not, does anyone have the full parts list to replace all of the bearings/internals for a rebuild?

I would use panel-bond adhesive backed up with rivets to keep it clamped while things cure.

Actually I haven't seen any kits that come with the rear suspension link bushings, and the shock bushings can vary based on which ones you have fitted (as I found out) as well the steering damper bushings vary by brand. The ARB bushings will also be separate as there are too many configurations to include them. The one place I would use a non-Polybush bushing in the future is the front radius arm bushings where going with the Superpro collared bushing would be my preference. I ran into a couple where I'll have to machine them myself as well as the fit was just not even close. The steering damper was one example.

So, considering everything above, if you really want to be able to monitor and tune your turbo boost accurately where is the ideal location? Logistics aside.

If you're getting cracking have you considered fitting a flex joint in the two legs of the Y-pipe to reduce the stress a bit?

Boost gauge are dead simple as long as you're able to figure out where to pull the ignition power and light power from, they just T into the appropriate vac line.

Yes, sorry... I'd just assumed that because it was a LR document it would be using LR part numbers and it never occurred to me that they might be the timken ones. Much appreciated, I managed to get everything back together and it setup almost perfectly despite breaking a couple 'rules' along the way so now the 110 is off at the body/paint shop and I'm hoping to have it back here by Friday. Again, thanks for all the help!

Well, the inner bearing seems fine if slightly worn, but the outer one only the cup was intact (and pretty scored) the bearing seat was melted too badly to pull a part number from it so if anyone has one that is not yet fitted and could get the Timken part number from it I can then actually source one locally, then I just need a pinion.

Sigh, looks like it's more than just the bearings. The pinion gear looks like it's been chewed on, the ring looks fine though. Does anyone know the Timken part number for the bearing? If I can find it I should be able to source one locally tomorrow and hopefully have this fixed by tomorrow evening.

I would have just taken the swivels too, but they're in terrible shape. If even the diff fits and is in 'OK' shape that'll let me get things over to the paint shop on schedule which would be nice.

Si, no I just assembled things and it's all fresh except the bits in the third member (which is the big chunk of metal that holds the differential, R&P etc) I just had a bit of an 'incident' where the 'stock' bolts for the propshaft were too long, they cleared the mud-guard fine when testing things but the bearing must have already been worn since when it was put under load things shifted enough to cause them to grind up against it, causing a lot of heat, and the ensuing failure. Anyone know if I should be able to pull the unit from a 1993 and drop it into a 1992 or will the diff-end spline count be different? (I've got a 1993 90 sitting here awaiting restoration and I'm supposed to get the 110 to paint tomorrow....).

So, what's the absolute minimum needed to remove the front 3rd member to replace pinion bearing/seal? Is it reasonable to just unbolt the swivels from the axle casing to get the half-shafts to clear the diff? or is this going to make it too difficult to re-assemble? While on the subject, does anyone have the Timken part number for the front pinion bearing (and might as well do the others at the same time I guess) the 3rd member is from a 1992 110.

Will one of the remote shifters from R380s in other applications fit onto the one used in the Defender? I'm asking because of the way I want to lay out the centre console combined with the fact that I personally prefer a shorter shift (not that it could get any longer than the stock one) and the room would be useful for some of my "evil plans <tm>".

I need to track down the correct part numbers for the following (some of the catalogs seem inconsistent and the photos are missing/not very good). D1 speed sender, the one that sends the signal for the speedometer, I am fitting an Autometer speedometer and need the electrical signal vs cable. Military bonnet latches, both halves, there seem to be a couple different versions from the photos and wanted to make sure I end up with a working set.

Bingo, thanks! Time to put in a washer until a new one can arrive.

Right now I cannot even shift into reverse, the sensation is like having a spring blocking the shifter going into place. I realize the switch should have two wires, but has one... so either way that'll need replacement.

I now see why I was confused, the switch has only 1 of 2 wires actually coming out of it. The one from the LT77 is fine, any chance that can be made to work?

Excellent, thanks! I have the brake lamps coming on as expected so I suspect it'll be good. Now to go search and make it work would be nice to be able to back-up.