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Glue back on using JB Weld or similar to avoid altering the weight much, or have it rebuilt/rebalanced.

Just getting the last of the wiring finished on the 110 and one issue is that I don't know enough about putting the R380 onto the 200TDI to know what I need to connect to get reverse to work. I've been staring at the wiring diagram long enough that I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have all the major items working, but still have a number of non-terminated wires to sort through and I suspect it's just one of those that needs to be connected somewhere.

On 1994 or newer no, on earlier the holes don't line up, the cutting is minor, though I wish I'd done the rear cappings prior to re-galvanizing them but I didn't have the plinths at the time. If Boltonbits is the only supplier I guess I'll have to wait.

While on my pre-1994 they still required cutting to fit, the plinths made things look much better overall. I'm wondering if Boltonbits is the sole-supplier for these (1. they don't have stock 2. there were issues having them send them outside the UK/Respond to Email at all).

I managed to figure that out when I put the number into a 3rd party search and it obviously wasn't the entire assembly , Thanks!

For STC492 the two rubber seals connecting the master to the reservoir have broken down and need replacement.

Doesn't exist as far as anyone in the insurance industry is aware. I've been trying. My normal insurance only covers Canada/USA, even for Mexico I have to get a local insurer to cover me.

Try doing it from 4000 miles away.

I am trying to ship my vehicle (motorcycle in this case) to the UK to use to tour the UK and Europe but every company I've spoken with has told me that as a non-resident I cannot get coverage in the UK, yet I understand coverage is mandatory unless you're a millionaire and able to put up a 500,000GBP bond with the government in lieu. I know people tour the world with their own vehicles.... how do you manage to get insurance for the UK if you're not from the UK?

I would be very interested in them at the right price. I already have the new doors for the 2nd row and rear door so I really want the 110 to match throughout. I'll probably use these others eventually on the 90s but the 110 is a show vehicle which is why I'm being particular.

Over a year ago I ordered a set of new-take-off 2007 or newer front doors for a Defender from Land Rover Orphanage, who then sent me a set of old-style door shells for 400GBP each. By the time they got here they were too expensive to just ship back and I've taken a loss on them. At that time I ordered a set of new-take-off 2007 or newer doors from Land Rover Salvage.co.uk and was VERY specific about needing the new pressed steel style doors, again, at a cost of 400GBP each, plus about 400GBP in shipping and taxes. I picked the doors up from my freight company in St John last week, and finally got around to looking at them more closely today and they're ALSO the OLD STYLE WELDED FRAME DOORS! I've now been screwed to the tune of nearly $3000 CAD on doors that are of no use to me and my vehicle is after a year still sitting waiting for the correct doors before I can send it for full paint, if it is painted doors and body separately it will never match correctly. When I reached the guy at LRS about the error his response was "They're Defender doors, they're all the same, get stuffed". I am seriously angry now and feeling like there isn't an honest person left over there to deal with.

What speed should a healthy 200TDI 90 be able to maintain on the highway with BFG A/T 265/70-16s on? I just drove the new 90 back from Halifax and I don't remember the 110 having trouble with maintaining speed on the hills, etc but the 90 seemed to struggle somewhat. I am suspecting the turbo, but would appreciate knowing what to look for to figure this one out since the 110 is still currently in the workshop and not-quite finished.

Take a look at the higher-end MEC tents, they're usually well made copies of popular models and good and solid for likely half the cost. If you want lightweight then a Hilliberg or Black Diamond is hard to beat, a Megamid is super-light for size but has no bottom.

It doesn't matter. Just protect the solenoids from the environment as best you can as the warn ones aren't the most robust. The only concern when mounting things is that the cables be heavy enough for the amperage, which means if you extend them you might need to go bigger depending on how far you go.

Yes, that would be great. I will also mount two for sure. Heading to New Brunswick to pick up my latest shipment which includes my new clutch box, so I'll finally be able to assemble the left-wing and start getting these bits sorted.

Or fit a safari roof, the double layer and vents cause a heat-driven siphon effect.

If you put rubber gaskets between the steel and alloy you should eliminate the corrosion.

I'd replace the 'pine tree' fasteners with nylon inserts and then use screws with caps to put it back. Much less work to remove in the future and greatly decreases the chance of damage, and easy to add more to help eliminate any movement. I've done something like this in almost every place where one of those terrible friction fasteners has been used or in place of a plastic rivet and not had any issues at all.

I know this has been discussed before but I have not been able to find the min/max lengths that would be most desirable. I only have new ones to choose from locally but they're not that expensive, I just want to make sure I select something in the right length range. Photos of how you went about installing them would also be very useful.

Going with larger diameter header and exhaust might also work wonders, but is obviously a more expensive option although would take much better to being wrapped up without cracking as cast iron is prone to. Though you might end up with a moderate horsepower gain.

Polyester Bedliner, use an adhesion promoter and rough up the surface as well to get it to stick, but it'll stand up to roadblasting a lot better.

With this approach, there is no additional complexity beyond what is needed to properly setup the battery direct power feed which is normally done anyway. I don't see a downside.

Jethot/other ceramic coating on the exhaust manifold will also help. Grab/borrow an IR thermometer and drive/stop and scan the engine bay to see where it's coming from. Then you have a baseline for any changes that you make, getting the heat to hold in the exhaust is probably your best option.

OK thanks, mostly increased safety. I would also fit an override switch to cut the lights if needed but we mandate daytime running lights here on all new vehicles for a good reason, adding the marker lights is just sensible and since they're LED I'm not worried about any additional current draw. It is common here for people to forget to turn on their headlamps because they see their DRLs, which means they end up with no rear marker lights, I figure it's just better to not have to worry. he only difference in the wiring would be to take the power for the low beam relay and marker light relay from accessory and leave the high on the stalk controls. Thanks for confirming I got the stock setup correct, always best to start from a known working setup.

I don't have a stock vehicle here to check against and am just wiring the headlamps and I wanted to be 100% sure I was getting things right as I've had vehicles in the past that did things in different ways. When the headlamp switch is in position 1 the marker lights are on but the headlamps are off, in position 2 the headlamps are on and in high or low beams depending on the forward/backward position of the control stalk with the horn on it. I assume this is the 'stock' configuration? I'm also pondering the best way to convert things over so the headlamps and marker lamps are always on when the vehicle is running. I suppose then I should just bypass the switch altogether and add a 3rd relay (right now I have one low, one high beam) and then connect those to ignition power, then just use the switch for aux lighting or something.